Stomski jig required, only 5 bolt snapped off today

[Paynewright]

This is the long 17/64 which is 155mm long. Its approx 25mm in the chuck and touching the snapped bolt which is about 1mm proud of the head. I think we're good to go!

 

[barryrs]

I noticed these guys in the U.K. sell a jig along with ti stud/nut kits.

https://verboten-motorsport.com/

 

[Armagreggon85]

Pretty much everyone who hasn't tried the laser tool dismisses it's efficacy. I also tried plenty of Oxy Acetylene and tried welding nuts to the studs, both of which failed. The laser tool worked on every stud that it could get a grip on.

 

[martin t]

I did consider the laser stud remover. I watched the videos and it did look like a good idea, but...and here comes the but.....after years of using proper heat to remove rusty bolts from rusty cars i just knew thos b******* were not going to shift and even though the laser is a fraction of the price of the jig I bit the bullet and bought the stormski. Which did the trick in a matter of hours.

My engineer assistant who luggged the oxy over was also staggered that the bolts would not shift and put it down to 18 years of electrolytic reaction between the steel stud and the alloy block.

Now this is just my opinion and there is no science to back this up but those B******* were not going to shift and buying the Stormski was the nuclear solution as far as cost goes but for me the job is now done and i can move on.

I still have the last bolt to do. It is shielded by the engine number plinth which stops my bog standard DIY drill getting close enough as the chuck fouls before the drill bit gets close enough.

With help from Paynwrite I have sourced the extended length drill bits and just this morning have bought a new smaller chucked very old black and decker electric drill for £6 from the autojumble shop at whitewebbs museum.

I have decided on 41mm mild steel exhaust studs (£6.49 form 20 ebay) topped off with 24 x copper flashed BMW flange nuts (£9.10 also from ebay). This gives me adequate nuts to replace the 3 each side exhaust silencer nuts and the nut stud combination to bolt up the manifold to the cat pipe.

I decided against Titanium, can you imagine trying to drill out a titanium stud, although the laser might work and against Stainless steel bolts/studs as they would have to be re tourqued after a couple of heat cycles and frankly once i have done this i want to forget all about it and should the next owner ever need to remove the manifold the copper flashed nut and stud combination will make it an easy job.

 

[Paynewright]

I looked at these too as I have an extended bit holder. With this and a long drill I think the reach would be 300mm+ When I looked at specs of the chuck I found one that was 22mm diameter.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yakamoz-0-...ocphy=1006867&hvtargid=pla-419969488454&psc=1

 

[L1OFF]

I noticed these guys in the U.K. sell a jig along with ti stud/nut kits.

https://verboten-motorsport.com/

Ti studs and nuts are £70 on eBay rather than £120 on your link.

 

[YPVS]

I looked at these too as I have an extended bit holder. With this and a long drill I think the reach would be 300mm+ When I looked at specs of the chuck I found one that was 22mm diameter.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yakamoz-0-...ocphy=1006867&hvtargid=pla-419969488454&psc=1

Even the chuck won't fit in the gap though will it? Moving the chick further away from the drill itself won't make much difference if the chuck itself is too wide to get in the gap.

 

[Adwiththe996]

Looong drill

Hey all

On this latest point about the long drill needed to get to the one awkward bolt....

I'm sure we ended up buying a 300mm drill called an "Aircraft Extension", the only ones I could find i) long enough ii) in 17/64" size and iii) in a tough & sharp enough material.

Prices varied a lot, some were only £9 but had to order 6, from memory I think I found one in the States for about £25 from 'Drill America' via Amazon.

There might be another way e.g. RS Pro sell a 12" Drill Extension Bar which doesn't have a chuck (so it's pretty slimline) so you'd need a 17/64" drill with a hex....

Good luck!
Ad

 

[Paynewright]

Cromwell Tools sell extra long drills.

 

[martin t]

On the subject of 3/16 long series drill bits from ebay: I bought a pair for £4.65 and they were rubbish.

How rubbish, it took me over an hour to drill a pilot hole, whereas using the jobber drill supplied it took minutes.

Be careful what you buy.

On the plus side the 17/64 long series at £7.15 cut through the bold like butter.

Now the good news: I have drilled out all 5 bolts, and clean and tapped all 12. I have received the new studs and copper flashed flange nuts and am ready to go.

I then also discovered that my manifold is in fact stainless steel and other than the rusty/flakey part that sits between the tubes, the manifolds are in perfect condition so i have delivered them to the blasters for a once over and will give them a coat of high temp exhaust paint and re fit them.

Photos to follow next week.

Suffice to say i am glad that is over and i send my best wishes to all of you laying under you car to do the same :thumb:

 

[Kingb4]

With help from Paynwrite I have sourced the extended length drill bits and just this morning have bought a new smaller chucked very old black and decker electric drill for £6 from the autojumble shop at whitewebbs museum.

I have decided on 41mm mild steel exhaust studs (£6.49 form 20 ebay) topped off with 24 x copper flashed BMW flange nuts (£9.10 also from ebay).

Thanks for sharing your experiences (as well as all of the other posters - thats why this forum is great). I have also bought a jig in readiness for this job, as it seems inevitable it will be needed...I will try the Laser extractor first, as I have found it to be far-better than any extractor I have used previously, then those that snap off can be drilled out.

Are you able to share links for the drill and studs/nuts - that way we can all steal your ideas........

 

[martin t]

Certainly and here they are, although i might add i have gone for normal mild steel studs so here goes:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171182218537?hash=item27db415d29:g:dQoAAOxyXDhSpbPt

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203707857793?hash=item2f6def3b81:g:hiYAAOSw6cRgft-1

Hope this helps.

PS the delivery is almost instant :thumb:

 

[Kingb4]

Certainly and here they are, although i might add i have gone for normal mild steel studs so here goes:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171182218537?hash=item27db415d29:g:dQoAAOxyXDhSpbPt

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203707857793?hash=item2f6def3b81:g:hiYAAOSw6cRgft-1

Hope this helps.

PS the delivery is almost instant :thumb:

Thats great, thanks. Where did you get your longer drill bits? (sorry - just making sure I have all the bits to hand before I start the job....

 

[martin t]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183304233030?hash=item2aadc8a046:g:hcMAAOSwl~ZbOzxX

This is the 17/64 long series drill bit (with thanks to Paynewright for his guidance).

Buat as far as the 3/16 long series goes you will neeed to trawl ebay. But a word of advise, buy an expensive one and make sure it is coblat ot tungsten tipped, stay clear of the 2 for 4.95 ones. Mind you Paynewright bought the same ones and had no trouble.

You will need to remove the thermostat to get at the furthest bolt on the left hand side.