Brake line replacement... cheaper solution?

[Robertb]

I had an advisory on my 4S's brake lines, so asked my local indy to quote for renewal. Its around £1800, before any other 'while you're at it' jobs like RMS, IMS replacement maybe, and seized bleed nipples etc. The expense comes from the 13 hrs labour to replace the stupid line that goes over the gearbox.

I feel especially irked having shelled out for the engine to be dropped by a different indy a few years ago for the AOS, and specifically asked them to look at other items such as this, but they evidently couldn't be bothered.

I've heard of some getting the line routed under the gearbox... is this an option? Or maybe a braided flexi hose that can be routed over the box without removing it?

 

[alfazagato]

brake pipe renewal

I have just replaced the rear brake pipes in situ. The LHS is not a problem but the RHS where it runs alongside and over the gearbox is a swine. I used Kunifer piping and with two people/four hands managed to thread and bend the new pipe at the same time. It can be done...best of luck. Siezed connections and nipples in the callipers is another problem but doable

 

[Robertb]

Thanks... maybe I'll look into DIY assisted by a more talented friend than I.

Kunifer is a good call... I've no desire to give Porsche £450 for OE replacements

 

[roboxm3]

Another vote for kunifer brake pipes; I replaced all hard lines on my 986S with kunifer without the need for removing anything other than wheel arch liners.

 

[Robertb]

Is that because Kunifer is easier to work with/more flexible?

 

[diverzeusy]

why anyone would use or pay for om pipes is beyond me, for a start they are steel so will just rust again :dont know:
use Kunifer, its copper based and much more corrosion resistant, I would be cautious, in fact I would not thread over the box, you cannot see where its touching/rubbing etc. it will wear through in time with vibration if in contact with anything.
More sense in routing under the gearbox where you can see it's safe and secure, in the future when engine removal is required for something else then replace the original with Kunifer secured in the correct clips neatly :thumb:
Far cheaper, quicker and definitely safer

 

[Hooner]

I re-routed mine under the gbox very neat job, passed mot no problem.

 

[Ghianightmare]

Which part of the pipe is corroded? If it is an accessible sections You could just splice in a section to replace the corroded piece. You just have 2 pipes instead of one. Perfectly safe. Doesn't impact performance. You won't see it so you won't be thinking about it.

 

[diverzeusy]

Which part of the pipe is corroded? If it is an accessible sections You could just splice in a section to replace the corroded piece. You just have 2 pipes instead of one. Perfectly safe. Doesn't impact performance. You won't see it so you won't be thinking about it.

IMO, Splicing rusted steel pipe is not easy, they are far harder material with corrosion and original pipes would have been made with a very strong press, not the sort of thing that could fit under a car on the drive and one extra connection is another chance of a failure
Just my 2p worth 👍

 

[MisterCorn]

I have never spliced them. I would always change the whole pipe.

MC

 

[YPVS]

13 hours labour to remove the gearbox and replace a brake line?

Seems a bit extreme.

 

[Ghianightmare]

The OP asked about cheaper solutions - alternatives to the cost of the OEM solution of dropping the box and replacing.

Splicing in some pipe when done properly is a perfectly safe option when it is done properly. Potentially ruling it out for the OP by suggesting it is hard or is an additional failure point might not help the OP.

In relation to routing a pipe under the box, the OP might consider the additional work at a later stage if the gear box has to come out. This might, depending on the routing, lead to additional work as the brake system might have to be bled.

Full disclosure - I have a spliced section of pipe in the rear LH sill/wheel arch. I also have a replacement Porsche rear pipe over the gearbox which I had installed when the gearbox was out.

Variety is the splice of life...

 

[Robertb]

Thanks for the thoughts... I presume splicing and non-OE brake lines are unlikely to be entertained by a Porsche indy, so I will have a chat with good little local garage I know, see it it is work they could take on.

I need to have a look under it myself again to appraise. I remember the front to back lines looking a bit crusty, but the others looked OK to me.

 

[Kingb4]

I have replaced my rear brake lines - using Cunifer. I dropped the gearbox, so I could follow the original route. My brake lines had rotted where the line runs through the clips (I guess the clips rub off the coating and hold water).

I looked at various options, to see what was available. RPM Technik offer a service where they use a long braided line to replace the line over the gearbox - this is cheaper than dropping the box (they quoted both options)

I decided that I would go with Cunifer rather than OEM, so it will last better than OEM (my car is a keeper). It also gave me the opportunity to check the IMS while the box was down. I also redid all off the rustproofing while I was there. (I did it all myself - was a great project)

The worst part of the whole job was the calliper bleed nipples - someone had previously ruined a thread - so I had to send callipers off for new threads.

I think the braided hose, or cunifer lines (either original routing or re-routed below box) are good options. Would not consider replacing the lines with OEM porsche (steel) lines..