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996 Advice

MK1964

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23 Feb 2015
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I would appreciate any comments and advice as I am about to start looking for a 996 circa year 2000.

Never owned a car like this before so I am slightly nervous about buying a pup.

I have read many reviews and owners reports but would like to understand the running costs, MPG etc.

While I understand this type of car cannot be run on a shoestring it will have to be my daily commute so the more user info I have the less likely it will bite me in the ar**

Many thanks
 
996

Hi there
Buy on condition, everybody will tell you that, and its the best way.
If you buy a car under £10k you will probably spend anouther £2-£3k putting things right, I just have :eek:
Good luck with your search.
 
:welcome:

Expect 32mpg on a run, 24mpg for daily use and late teens to 22mpg if you like giving beans all the time.

Insurance is cheap and if you get a slightly older car you're still only paying £230 road tax.

Always come on here for help and advice, don't buy anything that hasn't got it's invoices with oil type and frequency change that are what they're supposed to be.

Don't expect to buy a perfect car, unless it's off some of the an4l OCD geeks on here like me.

If you're unsure deffo spend the money and get a PPI.

Which variant were you thinking: 3.4/3.6, tip/man, coupe/cab, C2/C4/C4S/Turbo?
 
ps. Apart from the Turbos, the last of the 3.4 engines are the most reliable.
 
Hi

As well as the sage advice above, I would recommend investing in Adrian Streathers book - 996 The Essential Companion. I goy mine after I bought my car and wish I had it before so I was a bit more clued up on what I was looking at. There is a ton of information in there (with the odd minor mistake) and explanations of some fairly detailed engineering as well as some of the more basic stuff to look out for. I think second hand copies are available for not too much money, new is around £50 from memory.
Also some good meaty technical stuff specifically on the potential engine issues/fixes etc on the Hartech website - (just remember they are engine rebuilders and these problems only happen to a very small number of cars) - again, it's just good background info to have when you are sitting looking at a car.

Good luck.Ian
 
moorhouse said:
Hi

As well as the sage advice above, I would recommend investing in Adrian Streathers book - 996 The Essential Companion. I goy mine after I bought my car and wish I had it before so I was a bit more clued up on what I was looking at. There is a ton of information in there (with the odd minor mistake) and explanations of some fairly detailed engineering as well as some of the more basic stuff to look out for. I think second hand copies are available for not too much money, new is around £50 from memory.
Also some good meaty technical stuff specifically on the potential engine issues/fixes etc on the Hartech website - (just remember they are engine rebuilders and these problems only happen to a very small number of cars) - again, it's just good background info to have when you are sitting looking at a car.

Good luck.Ian

Prices must be going up cheapest second hand copy I could find on Amazon or eBay was £40 :sad:
 
here we go again, i personally think you should try to stretch to a 3.6 (slightly newer) more BHP more torque, more fun.
on a separate note though i have never got good milage from my car, im lucky to see 14mpg, but my car is electronically modified,

which ever model you settle for it will reward you in spades with the grin factor.
good luck.
 
99% of drivers will not notice the difference in power and torque between the 3.4 and the 3.6 engines (0.2s to 60). The tips are around half a second slower to 60 on both engines. The 3.6 is the more troublesome engine of the two as it has an inferior IMS bearing and poorer water flow + increased stroke the can cause bore scoring on some of the cylinders (both problems can spiral in to the thousands ££ to repair). The bonus the 3.6 has over the 3.4 is you get a glovebox, 'nicer' shaped headlights, slightly newer, a couple of extra mod-cons as standard and oh yes - more expensive road tax. The big bonus with the 3.6 is the C4S - the turbo bodied Normally aspirated car with all the Turbo running gear and no clown's pockets in the rear wings.

Do not let people fool you by telling you the 3.6 is a 'better engine', especially OPCs and Indys.

medicus - have you ever driven a 3.4 to compare that it is less fun than the 3.6 or have you just made that up?
 
:judge:

996.1 headlights = :cloud9:

The 996.1 may have less torque (and perf. figures given), but there is the offset of the lower weight too.

Having said that, medicus could have a point if he felt the slightly better torsional rigidity of the 996.2.

But if it were a M029 vs M030 of either flavour, they will have felt really quite different (std vs sports suspension).

Although the effect of just the wrong tyre pressures on these cars is pretty scary too (let alone tyres).
 
Think I've looked before but not found it - GT4 - is there any identification on the car regarding which suspension pack?
 
alex yates said:
ps. Apart from the Turbos, the last of the 3.4 engines are the most reliable.

Incorrect. The late 3.4 cars were fitted with the much less reliable single row IMS bearing.
 
alex yates said:
Think I've looked before but not found it - GT4 - is there any identification on the car regarding which suspension pack?

On your VIL stickers (under bonnet and service book on your motor)

M029 will NOT be recorded as it is the default importer spec (C16), M030 will be recorded as it was a cost option.

Or do you mean the the coils themselves?

Not sure this many years on, or this weather you'll see them, but you are looking for green dots painted on the spring (M030).

Std is brown or blue.
 
I was meaning on the sticker under the front lid.

20150224_103455_zpsxtvy0pt5.jpg
 
Then you are running M029 from factory.

Of course that doesn't mean you are running them now.
 
:thumbs: :worship:

Excellent help as usual.
 

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