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Windscreen washer pump or switch

No headlight washers, there's nothing on C9.

The motor is brand new so shouldn't need testing and not sure how I'd do that tbh?
 
If you have a battery charger you can put a voltage from the leads on that to the motor socket.

Did you say you put a volt meter on the plug and it's churning 12v out?
 
Been out and bought my own voltmeter today to check it again and now doesn't appear to be 12v getting to the plug... not sure I was using the previous one I borrowed correctly!

Therefore must be the switch in the wiper stalk? Does this require a whole new stalk unit or there something inside that needs replacing?

I've had the steering wheel off and on a few times recently so thinking it could be that that's caused it?
 
Sometimes i do get frustrated when answering a post and an OP doesn't listen to me .. i'm not having a go .. it's just .. frustrating .

Before replacing any part you check it .. so we need 12 volts at the connector .. a voltmeter will show this but it has its faults .. if there is a resistance in a contact or a wire then it will show 12 volts but that's not what you actually get ...

To explain ..

Turn your kitchen tap on to a trickle .. you have water coming out and a voltmeter will say you have 12 volts .. now fill a kettle from it !!

This is the load check .. with water you turn the tap on full .. with volts and a restriction it will be a trickle only .. nothing works with just a trickle .

Hence i first said volt meter or a test light ( a bulb ) .. this is normally used for difficult issues but it is the best .. i dont explain every detail until a process has been carried out .

So what i want you to do ...

get someone to operate the washers .. you hold the pump in your hand and prove its working or not ..

if you don't have anyone then an elastic band over the switch and steering wheel .. turn on the ignition and run to the pump .. is it working .. then run back and turn off the ignition .

We have now proved the pump is either working or not .

there are x2 wires going to the washer pump .. one is an earth .. this leads to the negative side of the battery ( its brown ).. with a voltmeter you connect to this wire and earth .. preferably the battery neg terminal .. meter set to ohms and on 20 ohmes .. you should have 0.2 of 1 ohm .. 0.2 on the meter ..

The ohm (symbol: Ω)

Connect to green black wire , operate the switch .. you should have 12 volts .. set the meter to 20 volts dc .. a line with dots under it .

depending on which of these is missing is where your problem is .. again a voltmeter is not a load .. 12 volts on a meter may still be a restriction .. hence a bulb on the 12 volt wire .. and its 100% got the required voltage ..

A bulb on both contacts of the pump wiring and if it lights up again its 100% a good feed / earth .. in that case you have a faulty pump .

My guess atm .. the contacts on the wiper arm are bad .. its x2 copper plates that touch against each other .. contact cleaner if you can get at them is the best way forward .. other than that its a new switch ..

This is a guess .. do NOT just order a switch the same as the pump please .

A bulb ... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633597-Circuit-Tester-12/dp/B000LFVPQC

No offence intended .

Wiring diagram is below ... if you have a rain sensor fitted then its a different setup but i've posted what i assume you have .
 

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deMort said:
Sometimes i do get frustrated when answering a post and an OP doesn't listen to me .. i'm not having a go .. it's just .. frustrating .

Before replacing any part you check it .. so we need 12 volts at the connector .. a voltmeter will show this but it has its faults .. if there is a resistance in a contact or a wire then it will show 12 volts but that's not what you actually get ...

To explain ..

Turn your kitchen tap on to a trickle .. you have water coming out and a voltmeter will say you have 12 volts .. now fill a kettle from it !!

This is the load check .. with water you turn the tap on full .. with volts and a restriction it will be a trickle only .. nothing works with just a trickle .

Hence i first said volt meter or a test light ( a bulb ) .. this is normally used for difficult issues but it is the best .. i dont explain every detail until a process has been carried out .

So what i want you to do ...

get someone to operate the washers .. you hold the pump in your hand and prove its working or not ..

if you don't have anyone then an elastic band over the switch and steering wheel .. turn on the ignition and run to the pump .. is it working .. then run back and turn off the ignition .

We have now proved the pump is either working or not .

there are x2 wires going to the washer pump .. one is an earth .. this leads to the negative side of the battery ( its brown ).. with a voltmeter you connect to this wire and earth .. preferably the battery neg terminal .. meter set to ohms and on 20 ohmes .. you should have 0.2 of 1 ohm .. 0.2 on the meter ..

The ohm (symbol: Ω)

Connect to green black wire , operate the switch .. you should have 12 volts .. set the meter to 20 volts dc .. a line with dots under it .

depending on which of these is missing is where your problem is .. again a voltmeter is not a load .. 12 volts on a meter may still be a restriction .. hence a bulb on the 12 volt wire .. and its 100% got the required voltage ..

A bulb on both contacts of the pump wiring and if it lights up again its 100% a good feed / earth .. in that case you have a faulty pump .

My guess atm .. the contacts on the wiper arm are bad .. its x2 copper plates that touch against each other .. contact cleaner if you can get at them is the best way forward .. other than that its a new switch ..

This is a guess .. do NOT just order a switch the same as the pump please .

A bulb ... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633597-Circuit-Tester-12/dp/B000LFVPQC

No offence intended .

Wiring diagram is below ... if you have a rain sensor fitted then its a different setup but i've posted what i assume you have .

No offence taken Demort, I really appreciate the responses and have tired to follow what you've said.

I borrowed a voltmeter to check the signal and it appeared to say it was getting something (caveat - although I read the instructions I have never used a voltmeter before so was unsure if was using correctly or what the reading meant)

Pump then arrived and fitted, still not working. I had given the voltmeter back by this point so went out and bought my own. Now showing no signal to the plug.

I've tested both motors in my hand with the kids pulling the lever, nothing.

I've tested both of the wires to the best of my knowledge following your descriptions below (I assume you put the voltmeter pointers on the one terminal inside the end plug that looks like the wire goes too) both don't give any readings whichever way round I orientate the pointers, contacts, settings etc. I'm mindful I've never used one of these before but have read the instructions and the post below about 50 times.

Thinking about when it stopped working this could all be related to my earth on the steering wheel for the horn issue I had recently. I get my refurbed steering wheel back tomorrow so will play around with the switch then.

I'll also order a bulb to see if that can shed anymore light...

I don't really want to spend £100+ on a new wiper stalk so would like to resolve without. The £12 motor was a no brainer but it seems as though this isn't the actual issue. Would also like to resolve this myself than take it somewhere and be charged multiple hours labour for investigations.

Again, I appreciate the time and advice offered by all in order to resolve this annoying issue.
 

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