Put my mind at rest after new steering module/battery reconnect

[Paul_S]

Hi All,

I thought I'd read it all and heard it all but alas not. Part of my 997 refurb was to upgrade the non-MF triangle airbag steering wheel to a new steering wheel (997.2 Sport Wheel, non-MF). I tried initially to get away without swapping the module, but on refitting the horn didn't work, so I bought a new module which as advised by local OPC was part number 99761328901. I also put in a new clock spring as I *ahem* damaged it somewhat.

I haven't had the module coded yet, but as I had the module and clockspring changed I also retrofitted cruise control using the official Porsche kit while I was there.

On refitting the wheel the horn worked straight away, and as usual the PSM failure light was on. So far so good, so today I went for a first drive out and this is what I found:

- PSM failure won't clear by itself, I just drove around for 15 minutes expecting it to turn off but it won't. All online guides say it self-clears?
- The multifunction stalk doesn't work at all
- Indicators, lights, front wipers all fine, but the windscreen washer pump won't fire (the wipers operate but the pump makes no sound)
- Headlight washer doesn't work
- Rear wiper doesn't operate
- Sport button doesn't light up and it not working, everything else on that switch panel (spoiler, PASM) are working fine.
- Cruise not working (I knew this would be the case but figured I'd try it anyway).

Is this all normal? The windscreen washer, headlight washer and rear wiper are all on the same stalk so I assume related to the control module coding?
Chrono is an option so I guess the car has forgotten it which is why the Sport button doesn't work?
Multifunction stalk is also an option I guess as the module might be expecting a multifunction wheel?

I'm in with JAZ Porsche next week for a vehicle handover/coding session as I'd retrofitted cruise control when upgrading the module, but I need to check these are all standard items for a handover/coding as I'm being charged by the hour and would like to come away with a fully working car again. Anything specific I need to tell them?

Good news is I have fixed the boost leak on the turbo . Performance was sensational.

Edited to add: I had the battery disconnected for about a month all in.

 

[Paul_S]

Thanks for all the responses and help with this.

I had a man with a PIWIS machine pop round and all of these issues, except for the washer pump, were fixed with a Vehicle Handover and some coding. The washer pump just clicks when the lever is pulled so is clearly not working which is a coincidence but not too big an issue.

The man even activated my retrofitted heated seats which was nice, so all good.

 

[Chigster]

Hi Paul. Do you happen to have a how to on the cruise control retrofit. I have the parts but debating whether to try this myself or get a specialist to do it.
I was told it’s just a matter of unscrewing the bottom half of the wheel cover but If it involves deactivating airbag etc not sure I am brave enough to try.

And who was your man with the PIWIS who did the coding for you?

Ta!

 

[Palletpallet]

Hi Chigster, I can confirm that retro fitting the Cruise control is pretty straight forward, but does require the steering wheel to be removed (or you can't screw the new stalk in (if I remember correctly).

It took me no more that 15 minutes to bolt it all in place, once I'd summoned up the courage to release the airbag and remove the steering wheel. Coding was left to my indie (which he did during a minor service for no additional cost).

 

[Paul_S]

It is really straightforward, you don't have to remove the steering wheel but it does then mean you can only fit the lower of the two screws that hold the cruise stalk in place, as the top one is right in the middle and behind the steering wheel. But plenty of people report that works fine.

If you go the whole hog, you also don't strictly need to power anything off, but a lot of people recommend disconnecting the battery for 15 mins which is good practice. As long as you have the right tools it is an easy DIY. You need 10mm socket for the battery, special 10mm socket (star bit) for the steering wheel, plus some really small torx screwdrivers for the steering cowl and the switch screws.

I was like you, but first time removing the wheel and it is actually straightforward. Otherwise just pay someone, it should only be an hour's labour end to end.

If you do it yourself:
Battery disconnect (only need to do negative, keep it tied up out of the way to be safe)
Remove airbag with long allen key or similar, then undo all of the connections
Mark the wheel position with a pen so you put it back in the same place
Remove the wheel
Remove lower cowling with torx driver. Top cowling can lift up out of the way
Tape down the clock spring. I THINK you need to remove it (I forget) - this is just held in by 4 tabs
Cruise switch slots in to rhs, screw in with the two supplied torx screws
Connect the cable from the cruise switch to the back of the wiper switch (should be obvious, will only fit in one slot)
Reverse everything as above
Code cruise control with PIWIS