Kind of sorted

[timm996]

Following on from my tip woes, I have at a least a working car. Timeline below
Lock up weak, so either low fluid, bad eds4 solenoid or torque convertor seal. I wanted to sort it as weak lock up means, slipping clutch = contamination & heat.
1. (Jack, drain, remove sump, replace sump, refill. run till 35C check level lower) Change fluid and filter and test solenoid resistance.
Still poor lock up
2. (Jack, drain, remove sump, replace sump, refill. run till 35C check level lower) Disconnect lock up solenoid to stop it slipping
Flashing tip lights, no gears, it detected fault.
3. (Jack, drain, remove sump, replace sump, refill. run till 35C check level lower) Replace three solenoids with 'good used'
Now a new problem, when changing from 3rd to 2nd, it goes into neutral for a couple of seconds before thumping into 2nd,,,, now undriveable.

4. (Jack, drain, remove sump, replace sump, refill. run till 35C check level lower)
Decide to get the solenoid body professionally overhauled and tested so send it off to valve bodies for repair.

 

[timm996]

Kind of sorted 2

Refit rebuilt valve body. Now the false neutral problem as moved to 4th to 3rd, on one hand annoyed still a problem, on the other hand at least I know its a valve and not gearbox fault. Emailed Valve bodies for solution who at first were apologetic, then stopped replying to my emails and blanked me, great.
Looked at the valve sequence, its either MV2 or EDS2 that switch from 4th to 3rd, well as I have changed the solenoids before, will try getting a new MV valve to fit.
5. (Jack, drain, remove sump, replace sump, refill. run till 35C check level lower) Replace mv2 and whilst I am there, mechanically disable eds4 lock up solendoid.
Result, perfect changes up and down the gearbox its only taken me a month.
Of course still no lock up ( requires box out and new convertor) but at least its disabled now and wont wear and cause problems.