Finally, IMS, is this the answer and ultimate closure.

[Alex]

Ping the outer seal off the bearing and leave it be.

You can check the condition without removing it......and you can do more damage removing it. It will be dual row and most likely mint.

Save your dosh for fixing all the 2pyr old rotten stuff like seized bolts and failed sensors.

 

[MisterCorn]

Ping the outer seal off the bearing and leave it be.

You can check the condition without removing it......and you can do more damage removing it. It will be dual row and most likely mint.

Save your dosh for fixing all the 2pyr old rotten stuff like seized bolts and failed sensors.

:yeah:

MC

 

[Citgot]

Thanks, I guess that would be a good choice for many but if I do that I still haven't ruled out anything and would still have something shaving metal flakes into the engine. Most of the other possible sources would require the engine to be removed and disassembled. I believe that makes replacing the bearing a well founded and rather cheap decision even if there is a possible risk that I screw something up.

A new bearing in place would in my opinion be better than an old possible faulty one.

As to checking the condition of the bearing with it still in its place I thought some bearings could look fine until you remove it and examine it more thoroughly.

 

[bazhart]

Replies recently read as if some new readers have jumped into the most recent posts and I think they would benefit from reading the whole post from the beginning as it already answers many of the points they are making assumptions about.

Baz

 

[Alex]

You inspect the bearing by feeling for any play in the centre spindle. Also turn it by hand and try to stop the bearing cage from turning. If you can't its perfect. If you fit a new bearing and its tight due to manufacturing tolerances, it could prematurely wear.

SERIOUSLY - STICK WITH WHAT YOU'VE GOT IF THE INSPECTION OF IT PROVES FINE!

 

[Kingb4]

Hi All
Am also about to check my IMS (and remove the bearing cover). I will lock the crank and also the cam (on drivers side - using a tool from Alex!) before I loosen chain tensionser. Had a couple of questions:
1) I assume I will need a new IMS seal (ie you dont reuse the old seal) - if so does anyone know the part number (2002 C2)?
2) Do I need new tensioner seals (O-rings) & washers?
3) Do I need a new O-ring for the IMS shaft (I believe 7mm x 2mm).
4) What thread sealant do people use (for the 3 bolts on the IMS spider)

Just trying to work out what I need to order in advance of doing the job...
Thanks!!!!

 

[Alex]

1, 2 & 3 can be re-used so long as they're not damaged. ie. leaking before you start the job.

 

[Kingb4]

Thanks Alex.....
I did a load of research last night - in case anyone needs the part numbers:
IMS seal- seems its the same for all M96 996 (part number 996 105 112 01)
IMS Shaft O-ring - 99970739240

Until I get in there, I wont know if its IMS or RMS thats leaking. So will hold off on ordering bits....

 

[Adi]

IMS strategy?

This is a great thread that I've read from start to finish and contains some brilliant insight from knowledgeable owners. So I've just bought a 1998 C2 996 3.4 Tiptronic Coupe with what certainly appears to be a genuine 34k miles. The service history is reasonable. My question is what is a reasonable strategy regarding the IMS? I understand that the failure rate is significantly overstated but I'm mechanically qualified and want to do everything possible to research its state and protect for the future if possible.

Is this logical?
1, Can I assume that it probably a double row at this build age?
2, Is this the bearing most likely to be reliable?
3, I'm tempted to do an immediate oil and filter change and have Miller sample the oil? Worthwhile?
4, If the sample comes back metal free would it be considered sensible to remove the Tiptronic and remove the IMS bearing outer seal?
5, If 4 is a yes would you change the Tiptronic oil and it's filter whist you are at it?

By the way initial inspection shows no oil leaking between engine and trans and no strange noises.

Thanks

 

[Alex]

Just lease it alone and if you ever get chance to have access to it due to another job then ping the outer dust seal off the bearing and check its ok. I had a new clutch a few months ago and checked it out (for a second time). 145k miles and the bearing is like new.

Yes you have double row and most reliable. I'd do the millers sample so you have a start point and bench mark/reference for future oil sample comparisons.

For a new owner the most important advice I can give you is don't take the engine above 3k rpm until your oil pressure has bottomed out at tickover (or at least under 2 bar), then once this is achieved (probably around 10-15 minutes running) drive it like your pants are on fire!!!!

 

[Adi]

Great advice thanks

Just lease it alone and if you ever get chance to have access to it due to another job then ping the outer dust seal off the bearing and check its ok. I had a new clutch a few months ago and checked it out (for a second time). 145k miles and the bearing is like new.

Yes you have double row and most reliable. I'd do the millers sample so you have a start point and bench mark/reference for future oil sample comparisons.

For a new owner the most important advice I can give you is don't take the engine above 3k rpm until your oil pressure has bottomed out at tickover (or at least under 2 bar), then once this is achieved (probably around 10-15 minutes running) drive it like your pants are on fire!!!!

:thumbs: