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Audio upgrade - The way I have done it.

Blobsta

Monza
Joined
6 Apr 2013
Messages
222
Another Stereo thread but anyone considering modifying theirs might find something useful in this thread.

My car had the Bose upgrade fitted along with PCM2 (I think). Quite honestly, I don't think it would have been up to much in late 2002 and certainly isn't any good for today or as a daily driver.

My car also has Fibre Optic bus. I have tried Dension, etc. but wouldn't fork out for a MoBridge as I didn't think enough of the nav to warrant keeping it.

The parts list as it stands currently:

Pioneer SPH-DA02 AppRadio
4x Alpine SPG-10C2 2-way speakers
2x Polk Audio 5 1/4" mid bass speakers
Factory Bose Subwoofer
1x Rockford Fosgate PBR300x1 Punch amplifier.
1x Autoleads SOT-906 wiring harness (or similar)
1x 5m ISO speaker extension lead.

Head unit swaps have been covered time and again so I'll not go too far into that other than to say that I ran the 5m speaker extension from the head unit along with the RCA leads and remote lead through the grommet behind the battery and into the boot space to where the factory amplifier is/was.

I planned to run the main speakers from the head unit and just used the amp to run the sub so that I could trim the bass off the door/dash speakers.

First job, change the speakers in the car, again covered many times but briefly, cut the paper cone Bose rubbish out, snap the tabs from the Alpines and fix them in place with hot clue, Q-bond or your weapon of choice. Here are the two together:

I cut the wire to the factory tweeter also so as not to double up.
That takes care of the four 2-way speakers. Then I removed the door cards, and the mid bass speakers, made some MDF adaptors and fixed the Polk 5 1/4" in their place. Sorry, no pictures of that bit but again there are many online instructions on how to do it.

I turned my attention to the sub box. Having considered making an new one for perhaps an 8" sub or pair of them and looking at so many options on-line, I decide to dismantle it to see what was inside. 24 T20 torx screw later, I found.... Not much really:


A flimsy plastic box with two 5 1/4" speakers. Although the box is pretty poor quality, the design might not be, tuned ports etc. [one hoped]. I decided to go with the cheapest option - Dynamat. £15 for a sheet of Dynamat Extreme and set to work:



The speakers are wired at 1 ohm but I didn't need to change that as my amp is 1 ohm stable so I left it. The box is much heavier now but also doesn't flex as much. I was pleased with my work.

The amplifier:
I wanted something really small as I was thinking it might have to go on the shelf if I built another box and this ticked all the boxes. I checked the measurements but was still surprised at just how small it was when it arrived Pictured next to a popular fruit based telephone for size comparison:


Mounting it was easy, I used the original amplifier bracket.



Joining my speaker wiring harness to the one end of the SOT loom meant that I could then connect all of the speakers to the factory harness without cutting anything. I unclipped the loom and brought it up to the top of the fuel tank where I connected them and secured them with velcro strap and a sticky pad to stop vibration:


All back together and there isn't much to see:


the white specks are on the camera not the car
:dont know:

The end result is a depth of sound that was greatly lacking before and bass that you can actually feel in the back of the seat! :thumbs:
I am stunned at the bass response from that Bose enclosure. A friend of mine tells me that he used to install this type of thing in MR2s when he had a stereo shop, a pair of 5" speakers can be as good as a 10" sub but with better tonal response. I am converted! :worship:

So, if you feel that the bass is lacking in your car and you have the Bose sub, spend £15 on Dynamat, an evening to do it and two more evenings to pick the black cack out from under your fingernails [hindsight - gloves] and try that before you do anything else.

Hope this is of some use to someone.
 
I like the Dynamat solution :thumbs:
 
I like the Bose system in my car. My previous 911 has the standard system so the Bose for me was a big upgrade!

If the Dynamat improves it, then I'm up for trying it out! However could you be getting the increased performance from your new amp?

Thanks

Keith
 
I very much hope so Keith!

I was running the sub direct from the head unit which really wasn't ideal and as I said, I wanted to be able to control it properly.

Deadening the box will definitely increase the performance of it but as to how much, I couldn't say as I didn't run it like this on the original set up.

I really didn't rate the Bose system but you are right that it is a huge improvement over the stock system. Then again, flu would be better than diptheria...

Remove your box, turn it over and gently prod the bottom of it, you'll see how much it flexes which is lost/wasted power from the speakers. For how little it would cost to do it, perhaps you'd like to experiment and let us know if it is a marked improvement or not. It would be great to know if it worked as well on the stock equipment.

Richard
 
A trick from the MR2 forum is to put silver flashing tape - dynamat would work too behind your door cards on top of the plastic membrane.
Apparently it alters the tinniness of the front speakers.

Yeah yeah I know these aren't MR2's. just mentioning it as its a cheap trick to try.
 
nice job, i'm just doing similar but using a 5 channel kenwood amp and not the head unit for the main speakers. I have a few questions ?

When you had the sub box open is there any challenges around mounting depth of the 5.25 component speakers ?

I am getting alternator whine with my amp install, I've re-routed the power lead so it is no where near the rcas or anything and it makes no difference.

Any ideas ?
 
Thanks,

Mounting depth shouldn't cause you a huge problem as there is very little in the way of thickness to the box. I would guess that if you took the outside height and subtract 25mm it would give you a safe depth for your speakers.

To be fair, the Bose units aren't too bad as they have polymer type cones rather than the paper rubbish they saw fit to install everywhere else. So you may not need to change them. Looking at my images again, I think the ports would clear a replacement speaker without modification but it would be safer to check. It's really easy to remove the box and open it.

2x Torx T30 screws hold it in the car. Carefully pull the Bose port surround off. I start in the middle of the bottom edge and gently pull down and outwards. It'll just release then. You can see in this pic the four clips that hold the surround on.

I did toy with the 5 channel amp idea but couldn't really find anything small enough to go in the factory hole. Could have used the CD changer mount I guess but I can get a 4 channel version of my sub amp if I want to at a later date for the others.

Alternator whine? Wow, that's a blast from the past! Does your amp have high-level input? Might be able to test to see if it is being caused by RCA shielding (or lack of).

Ferrite cores can help to resolve these issues but I haven't got anything concrete to offer you I'm afraid.
 
Nice job! Thumbs up!

Flashing tape is a cheap alternative, but the problem I've experienced first hand is that the adhesive isn't great, so it can slide down the panels you stick it to... I personally use the sheeting from Noisekiller, which works superbly and is pretty reasonable.
 
Thanks for the extra info, I can't find the source of my whine, I thought i'd found a dodgy rca yesterday as the whine went when I unplugged a specific rca when I just had the engine on and rev'd it in neutral. However under load in gear etc the whine is very present.

So a different question then, how did you wire the amp in for power, earth and switched, did you use the SOT connections from the oem amp or run separate wiring from an amp wiring kit ?

Be interested to understand where all your wiring runs ?
 
Wiring the Amp for power, I ran the Remote-On from the Head Unit along with the Speaker loom that I had created through the bulkhead behind the battery. MY RCA leads run to the nearside of the car. You will find a very hard rubber grommet between the fuel tank and the ABS pump. I pushed that out with screwdriver (one where you can change the bits so as to have a large non-pointy surface to push with). Carefully drilled the grommet to about 7mm and then cut it to allow the RCA leads through.

I did the RCA leads a long time ago and to be honest, if I had gone to the other side of the car behind the brake servo it would have been easier. The grommet there has less running though it on my car and more clearance. My power lead and Remote-On run through there. Power is taken directly from the battery and fused at source. Earth is connected to the factory earth point by the headlight on the N/S.

This thread has some great pictures in it to help you out:
http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=82427
 
Great write up - very useful.
I have a 997 with Bose which I have almost finished upgrading. Couple of questions:
1) did the bose sub box have an amp built in? Mine does but looks like yours doesn't. I am planning to connect mine direct to the preouts rather than the amp - as it is already amplified.
2) did you connect power to the aerial from the original HU connectors. I can't get any fm radio and I have been told the aerial is amplified and I have not connected power to it. Was wondering which wire I need to feed power to ?

Thanks
Rob
 

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