997.1 GT3 - gear shift improvements

[Senoj]

My 2p. Be careful with this stuff, easy to spoil it. .2 RS change is worth it. CAE isn't although it does sort out the 2/3 shift issue. But, you'll need two hands for reverse. Cup cables, if can be gotten, debatable, they move the LWFW chatter into the cabin on the 996 and I suspect same on the 7. They're tough and add some precision when you're 10/10. :thumb:

Cheers Danny. I've heard the 2 hand thing before about the CAE, it's the main drawback, otherwise looks good to me. I didn't realise the 2/3 shift thing was so common, thought it was just me doing a lazy shift now and then. That 2/3 is otherwise a very satisfying shift, probably my favourite. Timing acceleration / clutch dip / engaging 3rd at just the right time feels great when executed properly

It's definitely a thing with these. I have cup cables, .2 RS shift tower on the 996 and it still can do it occasionally. It's a driver input issue, slightly slower, less tension in your grip etc and then like a hot knife in butter. My 997, now departed, totally stock on the road was an absolute joy of light throw and precision but you had to be smooth and patient. On track generally the tension is up a little and that's the challenge :floor:

 

[Diggermeister]

I am pretty sure that when I had the 2-3 shift issue, it was at Anglesey last May and it started out pretty wet on track and never properly dried.

I think the problems were earlier in the day when you were having to be more careful on the throttle.

I've not had it since, so it is definitely technique/user error.

 

[Roro]

First off, there isn't really anything wrong with my OEM shift, still buttery smooth and silky once warmed up

I've been reading up on numeric cables, function first, cup shifters, CAE etc, and was wondering what the current thinking is on best way to improve the quality of the OEM shift

More 'precision" ie less play would be nice, but like I said there's nothing wrong with the current shift

Is this a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it, or am I missing out on something? :?:

7.2 GT3 / RS shifter and cables is my plan when the engine comes out soon. Been waiting months for diff plates

The 7.2 cables look a fair bit more substantial than the 7.1s :thumb:

Nice. What else are you having done (I don't remember diff plates being an engine out job)?

Lwfw, 4 litre clutch, welded lines are the main items just figured might as well the do one big job lot whilst it's out...

Hence doing shifter and cables at the same time, water pump alternator plus any other bits and bat's that are worth doing :?:

Solid list you have there. Sort the sills (if they need doing) and you pretty much have a mirror image of my car

 

[Roro]

My 2p. Be careful with this stuff, easy to spoil it. .2 RS change is worth it. CAE isn't although it does sort out the 2/3 shift issue. But, you'll need two hands for reverse. Cup cables, if can be gotten, debatable, they move the LWFW chatter into the cabin on the 996 and I suspect same on the 7. They're tough and add some precision when you're 10/10. :thumb:

Cheers Danny. I've heard the 2 hand thing before about the CAE, it's the main drawback, otherwise looks good to me. I didn't realise the 2/3 shift thing was so common, thought it was just me doing a lazy shift now and then. That 2/3 is otherwise a very satisfying shift, probably my favourite. Timing acceleration / clutch dip / engaging 3rd at just the right time feels great when executed properly

It's definitely a thing with these. I have cup cables, .2 RS shift tower on the 996 and it still can do it occasionally. It's a driver input issue, slightly slower, less tension in your grip etc and then like a hot knife in butter. My 997, now departed, totally stock on the road was an absolute joy of light throw and precision but you had to be smooth and patient. On track generally the tension is up a little and that's the challenge :floor:

Is the RS gone?! Or do you mean your old 997.1 GT3?

 

[Roro]

I am pretty sure that when I had the 2-3 shift issue, it was at Anglesey last May and it started out pretty wet on track and never properly dried.

I think the problems were earlier in the day when you were having to be more careful on the throttle.

I've not had it since, so it is definitely technique/user error.

Digger, you planning any 'box related upgrades?

 

[Diggermeister]

I am pretty sure that when I had the 2-3 shift issue, it was at Anglesey last May and it started out pretty wet on track and never properly dried.

I think the problems were earlier in the day when you were having to be more careful on the throttle.

I've not had it since, so it is definitely technique/user error.

Digger, you planning any 'box related upgrades?

No plans as yet, but keep kicking around the ideas of LWFW and also the shorter final drive with longer 6th gear perhaps.

No 100% convinced of the latter.

 

[GTTommy]

First off, there isn't really anything wrong with my OEM shift, still buttery smooth and silky once warmed up

I've been reading up on numeric cables, function first, cup shifters, CAE etc, and was wondering what the current thinking is on best way to improve the quality of the OEM shift

More 'precision" ie less play would be nice, but like I said there's nothing wrong with the current shift

Is this a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it, or am I missing out on something? :?:

7.2 GT3 / RS shifter and cables is my plan when the engine comes out soon. Been waiting months for diff plates

The 7.2 cables look a fair bit more substantial than the 7.1s :thumb:

Nice. What else are you having done (I don't remember diff plates being an engine out job)?

Lwfw, 4 litre clutch, welded lines are the main items just figured might as well the do one big job lot whilst it's out...

Hence doing shifter and cables at the same time, water pump alternator plus any other bits and bat's that are worth doing :?:

Solid list you have there. Sort the sills (if they need doing) and you pretty much have a mirror image of my car

Sills are being done, same place as yours :thumb:

What else you got I need to copy :mrgreen:

 

[Roro]

First off, there isn't really anything wrong with my OEM shift, still buttery smooth and silky once warmed up

I've been reading up on numeric cables, function first, cup shifters, CAE etc, and was wondering what the current thinking is on best way to improve the quality of the OEM shift

More 'precision" ie less play would be nice, but like I said there's nothing wrong with the current shift

Is this a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it, or am I missing out on something? :?:

7.2 GT3 / RS shifter and cables is my plan when the engine comes out soon. Been waiting months for diff plates

The 7.2 cables look a fair bit more substantial than the 7.1s :thumb:

Nice. What else are you having done (I don't remember diff plates being an engine out job)?

Lwfw, 4 litre clutch, welded lines are the main items just figured might as well the do one big job lot whilst it's out...

Hence doing shifter and cables at the same time, water pump alternator plus any other bits and bat's that are worth doing :?:

Solid list you have there. Sort the sills (if they need doing) and you pretty much have a mirror image of my car

Sills are being done, same place as yours :thumb:

What else you got I need to copy :mrgreen:

Whatever it is that Cunno is planning next :floor:

 

[Roro]

I am pretty sure that when I had the 2-3 shift issue, it was at Anglesey last May and it started out pretty wet on track and never properly dried.

I think the problems were earlier in the day when you were having to be more careful on the throttle.

I've not had it since, so it is definitely technique/user error.

Digger, you planning any 'box related upgrades?

No plans as yet, but keep kicking around the ideas of LWFW and also the shorter final drive with longer 6th gear perhaps.

No 100% convinced of the latter.

I'm thinking lower final drive without the taller 6th (less complexity / cost), will decide next year. Don't tend to use my car much for touring, it's either A/B roads or motorways to get to trackdays, so I don't think omitting a taller 6th would be a massive issue for me

... There you go Tommy, another one for the list

 

[Y2K]

Cup final drive with longer 6th is quite spectacular, but then I would say that. :lol:

Sports and Classic carried out the work.

Car happily cruises at 70 mph @2900 rpm (only 100 increase), whilst with a touring range of 420+ miles.

It'll hit 300kph on autobahn too.

 

[Senoj]

Shorter final drive single best mod you can do IMHO. Taller 6th is nice to have. But, there are circuits where 6th is in the mix with the shorter FD so have the car potentially come off the cam with a wider ratio gap from 5th needs considering. On 996 I left 6th as is, the job is expensive enough already :floor: I cruise in the car and it's fine, I just go a tad slower and that engine sits there nice at about 3500/3600.

@roro yes RS has departed. Done everything I wanted to do in it, rarely used, 996 is a better track car for me from both a driving and cost perspective and it was time for someone else to enjoy it. :thumb:

 

[Roro]

Fair enough, it was good to see one being used 'properly', hopefully the next owner will do the same and not squirrel it away!

You've pretty much summed it up re the shorter final drive. Final drive vs final drive with taller 6th, that's a ~4 vs ~10k+ decision last time I checked. Which one to go for is really down to what you want to spend. I'll see how flush I'm feeling next year :grin:

 

[Diggermeister]

Apropos of the final drive conundrum, I've never used 6th on any circuit. Even on the Dottinger at Nurburgring, you can get just shy of 170mph up to the bridge, still in 5th.

Not sure I have skill/balls/stupidity to approach Teirgarten faster anyway!

I guess the lower final drive does occasionally make you a bit busier with the shift than otherwise, but is there any problem with that?

Senoj, was it your RS at Octane?

 

[GTTommy]

Fair enough, it was good to see one being used 'properly', hopefully the next owner will do the same and not squirrel it away!

You've pretty much summed it up re the shorter final drive. Final drive vs final drive with taller 6th, that's a ~4 vs ~10k+ decision last time I checked. Which one to go for is really down to what you want to spend. I'll see how flush I'm feeling next year :grin:

That's halfway to a 4 litre build...I'd be more tempted to do that and leave the gearing? :?:

 

[Senoj]

Apropos of the final drive conundrum, I've never used 6th on any circuit. Even on the Dottinger at Nurburgring, you can get just shy of 170mph up to the bridge, still in 5th.

Not sure I have skill/balls/stupidity to approach Teirgarten faster anyway!

I guess the lower final drive does occasionally make you a bit busier with the shift than otherwise, but is there any problem with that?

Senoj, was it your RS at Octane?

Nope.

That's my point with 6th. You will ( and need to ) use it with the shorter FD, therefore taller 6th may create too much of a jump. At the ring for example it takes 2nd gear out of the equation completely and therefore the 2/3 shift. That's 3/4/5/6 being used instead of 2/3/4/5. In fact most circuits you'll never use 2nd. Which is quicker depends on the track obviously but I find even if shift points aren't optimal car is more fun to drive and feels punchier.