"Your brakes are terrible"

[Grey996]

I replaced my pistons seals on all 4 Calipers last summer. (Repainted too by that isn't relevant) and it transformed the brakes. The "woody" feel that was in them (and my Boxster S before that) is a thing of the past. Much nicer pedal feel and progressive bite.

Whatever about pads, disc, master cylinders etc, if your Caliper seals are more than a few years old, e.g. more than 5, get them changed.

Also as mentioned, get braided flexible hoses if you don't already have them.

You will naturally do a fluid change.

Then see how the existing pads and discs perform.

Food for thought.

Thanks, that's good advice.

 

[Grey996]

My brakes were rubbish.
I fitted new discs and RSL19's.
They absolutely pin the nose to the ground and make the tyres howl with heat in them. Just my two penneth.

Thanks for the tip, are they Ok for road use, they seem very track focussed, pricey too.

 

[Jack996c2]

I did a test comparing the brake bite performance on my C2 with that on the CSL. Details here:



Not long after this video I did change the front disks and pads as there was a fir bit of rust on the inner faces and it did improve it somewhat. CSL is still miles ahead though, to the point that it is uncomfortable for passengers when braking sharply due to the very high jerk rates.

MC

This test is inconclusive, you are comparing a stock brembo set with a full performance break setup. If you'd compare it to a stock csl, I reckon the 911 would outbrake it any day in any conditions

 

[Luddite]

Grey996, everything is relative is it not, and while you may indeed have become used to a measure of drop off in brake performance, the instructor may be more used to driving machines with brakes that are perhaps more suited to track use..? On the other hand he may well know what reasonable expectations of 996 braking performance should be... If you did not ask at the time, perhaps you should have..?

I suspect much depends on what YOU want or perhaps more importantly need in terms of brake performance... Of course some will spend fortunes to have carbon ceramics, while others might be happy enough just to paint their calipers yellow..? Is your thing is to visit the track regularly, or is road use your priority even fast road use which I suspect Porsche designed into the 996..? I suspect a bit of time spent in cost to benefit analysis might have potential to pay dividends for you..?

I also suspect OE spec and good condition 996 brakes are more than adequate for road use and an occasional track day...?

More than happy to be informed if I have that wrong.. :?:

 

[Shalmaneser]

Another data point coming in...

The brakes on my wife's 987 are much sharper than on my 996. Same pads and discs on both cars as I fitted them myself - Textar pads and ATE discs. Would be interested to know the master/slave cylinder sizes as well as the amount of assistance from the servo as those are the main variables.

Suggestions to fit the GT3 master cylinder I think increases the bore of the master cylinder which would reduce mechanical advantage and normally lead to more 'wooden' feeling brakes.

Fitting 996 calipers to my old E46 M3 with CSL discs (345mm) led to incredible braking, didn't even need to change the pads when out on track (although they did get used up pretty quickly). Would be interested to hear from guys who have used the oversize front disc option which was offered by a member on here for a little while. Bigger diameter disc = more leverage = better mechanical advantage.

I would add that with Yellowstuff pads all round the standard brakes were excellent on track - but very dusty. Wouldn't fancy using the standard setup though.

 

[Guywilko]

In order of increasing cost

New brake fluid

New brembo discs

Pagid rs29 pads

The pads are brilliant on track but squeak like the car is knackered round town

 

[Grey996]

Car went in today and got the phone call shortly after!

All hardlines are corroded, flexi hoses are original, bleed nipples are seized and need drilling out, pads are worn and discs are lipped. Now I know why they were rubbish! Recommendation is to replace everything.

It did also go in to have the manifolds changed but that will have to wait now. Full quote tomorrow but he did say the hardlines would be £600 so I think I'll get them to do these and new fluid and I'll do the disc and pads at home.

 

[MisterCorn]

Which hardlines are they doing for that? The one over the gearbox and the one from.left to right at the front are a bit of a pain to say the least.

MC

 

[Grey996]

He said that price was for 'all of them'

 

[MisterCorn]

He said that price was for 'all of them'

Well, I like working on my cars, but if somebody offered to supply and change ALL of my hardlines for that I would snap their hand off. Assuming original parts. Simply not happening IMO. I expect cutting the ends off and fitting new parts. It will work and be fine, just not how I would want it done.

MC

 

[Grey996]

Thanks for the advice, not how I'd do it either.

Maybe I got it wrong, it was a quick call and I was in shock! He's sending a breakdown of everything tomorrow so I'll have the full picture.

The inspection also showed worn and corroded top mounts and perished bump stops plus worn rear top control arm bushes. I only did those a couple of years ago so they haven't lasted long.

 

[Griffter]

That's bad news, sorry to hear that.

If they're removing the calipers to drill and replace the bleed nipples, surely doing the discs and pads on top would essentially just be the parts cost?
Might as well get them to do the lot?

 

[MisterCorn]

Thanks for the advice, not how I'd do it either.

Maybe I got it wrong, it was a quick call and I was in shock! He's sending a breakdown of everything tomorrow so I'll have the full picture.

The inspection also showed worn and corroded top mounts and perished bump stops plus worn rear top control arm bushes. I only did those a couple of years ago so they haven't lasted long.

The rear top arms often look bad as the aluminium corrodes and pushes the outside of the bush out. But in my limited experience they can look pretty bad but function file. Top mounts and bump stops aren't too bad to do. If it is a 4wd car I would look at using 997 top mounts as they are much cheaper. See my C4 cab thread for details.

Unfortunately as these cars age these jobs all need doing. I will say from the limited driving I have done on my car since the suspension refresh, it feels like a new car

MC

 

[Grey996]

That's bad news, sorry to hear that.

If they're removing the calipers to drill and replace the bleed nipples, surely doing the discs and pads on top would essentially just be the parts cost?
Might as well get them to do the lot?

Thanks, I'm not overly surprised though, it is 20 next year.

They phoned to say as it was in they'd do the disc and pads at the special price of £999 plus vat, I'll be doing them myself!

 

[MisterCorn]

That's bad news, sorry to hear that.

If they're removing the calipers to drill and replace the bleed nipples, surely doing the discs and pads on top would essentially just be the parts cost?
Might as well get them to do the lot?

Thanks, I'm not overly surprised though, it is 20 next year.

They phoned to say as it was in they'd do the disc and pads at the special price of £999 plus vat, I'll be doing them myself!

Who are these people, they are having a laugh!!!

MC