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Scissor lift for DIY?

OttoOtto

Nurburgring
Joined
11 Jan 2021
Messages
479
Thinking about some DIY; exhaust bolts, cleaning/waxoil/ACF, wheels off to coat, undertrays off to check for pipe corrosion etc. etc.

I'm not a fan of jacking up and chocking up (I'd sooner just go to my local if it's preventative maintenance that doesn't risk warranty issues and use their ramp) , so.... looking at lift options (plus a decent torque wrench).

General prices seem to be around £1k although there is something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19437852...MI4L7BvtCP-AIV4IBQBh0Sow3qEAQYAiABEgLZp_D_BwE

..which seems ridiculously cheap and would you trust it :?:

My question is whether this type of lift has limitations, for example do they allow you to get all the undertrays off etc.? And what is false economy/safety? And can they remain in place in the garage (drive over) - need anchoring to the floor?

Grateful for thoughts...
 
I would say that if you actually want to do much work under the car then a two post lift is the way to go.

The scissor lift types whether full width or twin narrow ( one each side ) tend to get in the way of undertrays.

Your link seems cheap as it is only the drive on pads ( the scissor lift isn't included ) :grin:
 
I bought a quickjack to replace the engine in my 996.

Worth every penny, should have bought one years ago, it is that good.

Being 2 seperate lifting components you have complete access to the underside of the car.

i found it a very comfortable way to work, albiet lying on your back, but with plenty of room above you.

If you do not want to get under the car then it is ideal for removing the wheels and working on each corner.

My one has the battery powered hydraulic pump so i can use it anywhere. You need a decent set of jumpleads to connect up the battery to the pump. I tried it with some old thin leads as they were easy to get at in my crowded garage, very melty! So i found my good set and never looked back.

I am going to post a write up on my 996 project and there will be pictures of it on the quick jacks.
 
andrews7889 said:
I would say that if you actually want to do much work under the car then a two post lift is the way to go.

The scissor lift types whether full width or twin narrow ( one each side ) tend to get in the way of undertrays.

Your link seems cheap as it is only the drive on pads ( the scissor lift isn't included ) :grin:

:oops: need to engage brain before posting :grin: but yes this is what I was thinking - a 2 post lift is really the way to go. Out of my pricing TBH, my local doesn't even have one and they said the same thing about getting undertrays off. Thanks.
 
martin t said:
I bought a quickjack to replace the engine in my 996.

Worth every penny, should have bought one years ago, it is that good.

Being 2 seperate lifting components you have complete access to the underside of the car.

i found it a very comfortable way to work, albiet lying on your back, but with plenty of room above you.

If you do not want to get under the car then it is ideal for removing the wheels and working on each corner.

My one has the battery powered hydraulic pump so i can use it anywhere. You need a decent set of jumpleads to connect up the battery to the pump. I tried it with some old thin leads as they were easy to get at in my crowded garage, very melty! So i found my good set and never looked back.

I am going to post a write up on my 996 project and there will be pictures of it on the quick jacks.

I was looking at one myself and was not sure if high enough to get the engine out of my 996. all ok on engine removal?

do you have the link to you project ?

thanks
 
My write up has been thwarted by camera failure but i will sort out some bits which might make good reading and watching.

But to answer your question about quick jack and removing/installing the engine you will need to be aware that in my case using a pallet truck to remove and a trolly jack to install, the engine is about 4 inches to tall to slip under the rear of the car.

This means you have to raise the rear of the car by 4".

I did this by simply getting 2 assistant to lift the back of the car up whilst i slid the engine on the trolly jack under the car.

When i removed the engine i just used an engine hoist as there was only 2 of us doing the removal.

So 2 people x a few seconds lifting the rear of the car is really not a problem.

I could have jacked the car up a bit and put more rubber blocks under the rear but lifting was so much easier and simpler.

I hope that helps a bit.
 
I have bought a scissor lift, to work on my Porsche. On mine, the two lifting-platforms arent physically linked, so have good access. Plus, as you use lift pads, there is actually still some access to most of the underside of the car as well as the middle (albeit not as much as a two-post lift) - so never had any issues removing undertrays etc.

I have removed my gearbox using the lift, fitted new exhausts etc. On my to-do list is changing the manifolds, which will involve dealing with rusty manifold bolts, so am very grateful I have a lift.

If I had the money I would have gone two-post. But as this need a specific thickness/density of concrete floor, it would have meant digging out my existing floor, as well as the purchase of the lift. Whereas the scissor lift was pretty much plug and play.
 
martin t said:
My write up has been thwarted by camera failure but i will sort out some bits which might make good reading and watching.

But to answer your question about quick jack and removing/installing the engine you will need to be aware that in my case using a pallet truck to remove and a trolly jack to install, the engine is about 4 inches to tall to slip under the rear of the car.

This means you have to raise the rear of the car by 4".

I did this by simply getting 2 assistant to lift the back of the car up whilst i slid the engine on the trolly jack under the car.

When i removed the engine i just used an engine hoist as there was only 2 of us doing the removal.

So 2 people x a few seconds lifting the rear of the car is really not a problem.

I could have jacked the car up a bit and put more rubber blocks under the rear but lifting was so much easier and simpler.

I hope that helps a bit.

That's a good bit of info thank you and i can work with that.
 
OttoOtto said:
Thinking about some DIY; exhaust bolts, cleaning/waxoil/ACF, wheels off to coat, undertrays off to check for pipe corrosion etc. etc.

I'm not a fan of jacking up and chocking up (I'd sooner just go to my local if it's preventative maintenance that doesn't risk warranty issues and use their ramp) , so.... looking at lift options (plus a decent torque wrench).

General prices seem to be around £1k although there is something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19437852...MI4L7BvtCP-AIV4IBQBh0Sow3qEAQYAiABEgLZp_D_BwE

..which seems ridiculously cheap and would you trust it :?:

My question is whether this type of lift has limitations, for example do they allow you to get all the undertrays off etc.? And what is false economy/safety? And can they remain in place in the garage (drive over) - need anchoring to the floor?

Grateful for thoughts...


The eBay link is just for the low profile ramps up to the lift ( no lift included)
 

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