Leaking fuel rail...

[pooga]

I noticed smell of fuel on start-up and thought that's normal – went out for 30 min drive, returned and parked up but notice strong smell of fuel – looking under the car I can see a puddle of fuel at rear n/s. I let the engine cool down and with the help of borescope camera I can see fuel dripping from the front of the fuel rail (n/s) i.e. just above cylinder 3. By reading other post – I am guessing that the fuel rail have rusted and confirmed by feel.

I have ordered new fuel rail also I thought I will replace all the injectors as they will be out as they have been in for 185k.

Any advice on replacing the fuel rail, I have managed to clear the coolant hoses & cables on the n/s and managed to unclip only one of the electric connectors to the injectors (nearest to the rear) the others don't want to budge (didn't force it too much). Also managed to remove two from the other side. Do I close my eyes and just persevere and get them out or is there an easier method? Also because it's tight in there – should I be concerned about fitting the new rail/injectors – how do you make sure they are seated correctly as it's difficulty to see in there....

Any useful advice welcome....


(2003 C4S)

 

[Jamesx19]

Hi, they are a right pain in the arse for all the points you already mentioned.

I dropped the engine slightly to get more space to get an arm in. Be wary of putting strain on the gearbox mount rubber as it'll twist it unless you release that slightly as well.

You are right, seating the injectors can be difficult due to getting the leverage on them. I lubed the rubber seals with a tiny smear of fairy liquid. Not sure if that was wise, but didn't want to try anything that may inadvertently degrade the rubber seal.

There will be a fair amount of crud around the injector holes, which is a stress as dirt may (?)slip.into the inlets and cylinders if care isn't taken.

The injectors might be ok. You can get them cleaned and tested by a fuel injection specialist, though some will be corroded badly as well.

Hope that assists, good luck.

 

[Marky911]

There's a thread on here somewhere by Cobra (not to be confused with Craig, CobraRS), where he changed his in situ.
Quite a common issue these days where the end of the rail corrodes.

Have a search for his thread.


Edited to add -
Here you go -

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=121488

 

[pooga]

Jamesx19 - thanks - that helps confirming that it's a pain to do. I was thinking of removing the inlet manifolds for the extra space, but will give it another go first.


Marky911 - thanks, i had read C11BRA post but was hoping someone had found much easier route - i guess not!

 

[infrasilver]

I removed and cleaned my injectors last year while the engine was in situ, it was a little awkward but doable.
The seals should be renewed when refitting as they can get stuck when removing and pull the rubber away. When refitting use a little silicone grease on the seals and they will fit a lot easier and the silicone grease won't degrade the seals, I've had a very small tin of the grease for years as you don't need to use very much at all, I put it on all engine O rings before fitting them.

The fuel rail on mine (3.6 the same) is attached to the other fuel rail with the fuel hoses and you can't separate them from the rails. There are no clamps or any way to remove them from the rail and may need to be cut off, I'm guessing they are bonded on somehow. The fuel pipes that run over the rear of the engine go through a bracket so that will also need to be removed but getting to that without removing most parts from the top of the engine will be difficult? I also had a captive nut break off on mine making it impossible to remove the bracket from the fuel lines but I had the engine out of the car so it was easy to get a spanner on the nut and weld a new nut onto the bracket.

 

[pooga]

Interesting....also being reading up on Pelican and didn't see anything mentioned about the lines running through a bracket – where is the bracket and is it accessible by removal of both plenums?? Both plenums are out might have a feel around so see what I can find and test if I can undo.... Thanks for the heads up!

 

[infrasilver]

I can't post a picture at the moment but there is a picture in this thread.

https://www.renntech.org/topic/50217-2002-36-fuel-line-quick-disconnect-repair/

Depending what year they changed the bracket design but mine has a rubber lined metal bracket attaching to the upright metal bracket and you need to undo a bolt to get it off. The picture in that thread has a plastic bracket attached to the upright bracket, this may let you unclip the fuel lines from it but I can't be sure as I've not seen a close up of how this bracket works?

You can probably get to it by removing the top intake tubes?

 

[pooga]

@infrasilver - is this bracket in the picture?

 

[Jamesx19]

Yes - had forgotten about that little b@#&@!!!!

 

[infrasilver]

As James says, yes it is, my captive nut came away from the metal bracket (its only fusion welded on I think) and left the bolt and nut spinning together, it would be worth giving it a bit of WD40 or similar before you attack it. Although if that is yours it doesn't look too crusty?

EDIT, just realised it's a picture from Pelican and not yours!

 

[BHZ661]

When i changed mine i remove the inlet manifold and then while i,m in there changed the starter cable and a few other vacuum seals and pipes

 

[pooga]

Thanks guys

luckily bracket won't be a problem - i have plastic bracket with clips for the fuel line as attached

Removed the coolant tank this gives the required space for the near side fuel rail. This was actually recommended in most write ups but i initial couldn't remove, but after lowering the engine touch more and getting the bottom of the take pass the inlet manifold came out without a problem.

all injectors un-clipped and cleared - just need to make more space around the off/side rail - so for now attempting without removing the inlet manifold.

 

[Jamesx19]

Good going!

As BHZ661 says, it's a great opportunity to replace other bits or even just get access to clean off rust. As an example, I know others have replaced the starter cable, but mine was better just my cleaning and remaking the connections. Especially the one in a small black box that emerges from the front of the car. It's buried right near the back bulkhead and was really corroded in there.

 

[pooga]

Ok, made some progress, old fuel rail is out, but only after removing intake distributor...but snapped the head of the last bolt which looks rusted in.

I am looking at removing inake manifold to get the broken bolt out as i think the bolt will just snap if i try in situ.

I am assuming as i have the intake distrbutor out, the intake manifold should be stright forward by removing 4 bolts? any advice welcome!

 

[pooga]

pic of snapped bolt head!