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Porsche Car Sales

PSE Actuator

K

kjgood

New member
Joined
19 Aug 2013
Messages
42
Can anyone tell me how difficult is it change the Pse actuators? Do you have to remove the exhaust system to change them. Apparently they are a standard fit on my 996 cab but I note from a previous service docment 'Pse actuator rod broken, actuators welded in the quiet position' obviously I would like to reverse that.

Any advice would be greatly received.
 
The actuators can be replaced without removing the exhaust (rear PU off job) but the flaps are built-in to the exhaust and cannot be replaced on their own.

I had a broken linkage on one of mine that I had repaired last year, my post may be of help to you:

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=88347&highlight=pse

Ron
 
I'm just about to do some repairs on my project C4S which has the XLF sports exhaust option (PSE) which is vacuum operated only. The switchable system I believe just adds a 12v on/off vac switch and button on the dash into the mix.

The actuators on my C4S are made by Pierburg, model no 01T302

I would think you could get these direct and avoid Porsche costs (they weren't listing them for the 996 as separate units, but think they do for the 997).

You will need to see how your actuation arms have been welded, if they have done a sensible mod then maybe new actuators will be all you need.

Post some pictures if you can (the rear pu will need to come off)

Rgs
Harv
 
Are problems with the actuators/flaps common? My PSE operates correctly but but after going from quiet to loud it sounds like the flaps are rattling round a lot, this gets better as I guess the heat and dirt from the exhaust fixes them back in place. But then I don't like using quiet mode as I know it will sound like its falling apart when I next put it on loud.
 
Are you sure it's the flaps that are making the rattling noises?

The actuators are preloaded against the flaps in their fully open position and this tension should prevent rattles.

The flapper valve sections themselves look to be made of very good materials but the ball and socket ends of the actuator rods are prone to seizing/rust. Periodic cleaning and the addition of high temp grease may help(or just burn straight off!!) and I just spent a few hours freeing one of them off and cleaning them on my C4S project.

The pre-load is adjustable via a threaded section on the rod and locking nut and I'm planning to run the engine with the rear bumper removed and eyeball if they open and close at the same time/rpm and perhaps fine tune them.

:thumb:
 
Is the pre-load caused by spring tension? Vacuum is used to close the flaps so if the actuator springs are broken this could explain why they would rattle on loss of vacuum.
 
Yes makes sense, it would be fun to cut one open and take a peek inside. :eek:
 
Many Thanks

Guys, thank you so much for your advice, its off to the garage then to see how they have welded up the actuators.

The work was done by Parr in Crawley so i'm hoping they did a good job. The service docket says quote 'Investigated sports exhaust not operating found O/S silencer actuator rod broken removed both silencers and welded up both actuators in quieter mode' unquote.

I really hope they haven't welded the flaps up, why would you want it welded up in the quieter mode though?
 
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