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996 3.6 track car engine build advice

D

Dom1102

New member
Joined
2 Aug 2014
Messages
20
I am having a 3.6 engine built for a track day/fast road 996 gen2. I have done my research into inherent 3.6 engine weaknesses and come up with a list of proposed updates and mods. The engine will be professionally built but I would still like to hear if anyone else out there has done a similar project and discuss suggestions/pitfalls to look out for. Below is my list...

Cooler running thermostat
Deep sump kit with x51 type oil baffles (0.6 of a litre extra oil held)
IMS bearing upgrade (LN Engineering) or fit New later style OEM IMS shaft
Renew rear main seal RMS with updated version
New con rod bolts or consider Carrillo con rods
New Crank bearings
New timing chain
New Timing chain tensioner - fit billet aluminium type + new chain guides
New piston rings with New Nikasil liners (OEM pistons fitted were virtually new)
Crank balance
New cylinder head bolts
LW flywheel
 
Third rad, billet oil pump drive and ARP rod bolts would be my additions to your list.

I'd also go with the Hartech large IMS bearing as this looks like it'll never break, the LN only has a certain life cycle.

LWFW's are a killer of the crankshaft and you will need to get that and the crankshaft balanced together if you want it to be reliable.
 
Thanks for the suggestions . Could you elaborate on 3rd Rad issues and the best fix? I was assuming carrillo rods would be the only cure for rods potentially letting go but agree that ARP bolts with std con rods may be an adequate and cheaper alternative. Hartech recommend a std OEM IMS shaft. :thumb: :thumb:
 
Dom1102 said:
Thanks for the suggestions . Could you elaborate on 3rd Rad issues and the best fix? I was assuming carrillo rods would be the only cure for rods potentially letting go but agree that ARP bolts with std con rods may be an adequate and cheaper alternative. Hartech recommend a std OEM IMS shaft. :thumb: :thumb:
Click to expand...

If you have a run of the mill manual 3.6 it won't have a 3rd rad so adding an additional one (3rd) will keep the temps from rocketing whilst out there, I know it's been mentioned that there doesn't seem an issue with or without when on the track but they definitely don't run as hot, which is also good for power and lubrication.

It's the rod bolts that usually fail if anything, so standard rods with uprated bolts should be fine but no harm in going the whole hog and getting the rods too.
 
Waste of money. Run it until it blows up then fit another one. Seriously. Its not a Cup engine. I wouldn't fit anything that you can't easily move to another engine - leaving you with a baffled sump and centre rad.

Chris.
 
spyderman said:
Waste of money. Run it until it blows up then fit another one. Seriously. Its not a Cup engine. I wouldn't fit anything that you can't easily move to another engine - leaving you with a baffled sump and centre rad.

Chris.
Click to expand...

Snap.
 
Update

Whilst I really appreciated the, pretty much unanimous, advise when I originally posted here on this subject (see my previous thread - http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=95557&highlight= ), 'Run' being the theme of most responses, I anxiously went against the advice, I took a chance and went with the purchase, not that there weren't a few difficult conversations but we figured it out. Between myself, the previous owner and the dealer who repaired it the first time around we hammered out a plan whereby we all contributed towards a proper repair job. I went and met their in-house engineer who was busy building an engine for their 996 3.4 race car at the time (which I subsequently watched race at the Brands Hatch porsche weekend), from what I saw he was obviously both talented and experienced enough at building porsche engines. Short story is the dealer stepped up and did the right thing, pulled out the failing engine and stripped it, pulled out the crank and newly fitted pistons, and the heads, they still had the original crankcases (with correct engine number) so these were sent to Hartech to have Nikasil liners fitted. In the meantime we sourced some choice bits for the rebuild that should make it a reliable car, addressing all the potential weak points - including: Carrillo rods, x51 type deeper sump kit, IMS 'taper bearing' kit, new timing chain and guides, cooler running thermostat kit, new crank bearings, new rings fitted to almost new OEM pistons, billet oil pump drive and light flywheel (bottom end also been fully balanced). The car is also already fitted with a third rad. I don't want to dwell on what happened between the dealer and the previous owner the first time round, as far as I am concerned it is now in the past. The engine is going back together next week with a photographic record, it will be a proper job. I know these guys are more than capable of doing it and they realise that they have reputation to uphold. I think it is going to be a very strong engine. I am really excited to get the car back and get some miles on it. Will post an update once I have done so. :thumbs:
 
Re: Update

Dom1102 said:
Whilst I really appreciated the, pretty much unanimous, advise when I originally posted here on this subject (see my previous thread - http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=95557&highlight= ), 'Run' being the theme of most responses, I anxiously went against the advice, I took a chance and went with the purchase, not that there weren't a few difficult conversations but we figured it out. Between myself, the previous owner and the dealer who repaired it the first time around we hammered out a plan whereby we all contributed towards a proper repair job. I went and met their in-house engineer who was busy building an engine for their 996 3.4 race car at the time (which I subsequently watched race at the Brands Hatch porsche weekend), from what I saw he was obviously both talented and experienced enough at building porsche engines. Short story is the dealer stepped up and did the right thing, pulled out the failing engine and stripped it, pulled out the crank and newly fitted pistons, and the heads, they still had the original crankcases (with correct engine number) so these were sent to Hartech to have Nikasil liners fitted. In the meantime we sourced some choice bits for the rebuild that should make it a reliable car, addressing all the potential weak points - including: Carrillo rods, x51 type deeper sump kit, IMS 'taper bearing' kit, new timing chain and guides, cooler running thermostat kit, new crank bearings, new rings fitted to almost new OEM pistons, billet oil pump drive and light flywheel (bottom end also been fully balanced). The car is also already fitted with a third rad. I don't want to dwell on what happened between the dealer and the previous owner the first time round, as far as I am concerned it is now in the past. The engine is going back together next week with a photographic record, it will be a proper job. I know these guys are more than capable of doing it and they realise that they have reputation to uphold. I think it is going to be a very strong engine. I am really excited to get the car back and get some miles on it. Will post an update once I have done so. :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me Dom1102. That little lot should give you many miles and track days of service. Just make sure you change the oil and filter regularly; some people seem to think that you can do 8-10 track days without an oil change. When you consider the track mileage that gives you, it is an awful lot to ask of an oil to stand that level of torture without a change. We used to change the oil and filter on our Supersport bikes after 1 race meeting (around 210 miles) and it was always beaten to a pulp. We were using Motul 300V at the time but then switched to Mobil 1, then Elf 3818. Analysis of the oils showed always showed degredation, regardless of brand after that mileage.

FWIW, I would have put pretty much the same parts into an engine destined for hard use if it was mine. :bye:
 
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