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Motor Oil Viscosity Question

M

motokustom

Trainee
Joined
21 May 2013
Messages
64
I bet there is a thread somewhere so I apologise if I am opening a covered subject in advance
While recently reading a well known magazine I read that they advocate the use of Mobil One 15w 40 oil as opposed to 0W 40 oil that my local main dealer uses and recommends. Now I confess I do not know what all the listings mean? but I do know it relates to engine heat .... So question is What would or do you use in the UK?
My car has always been serviced prior to my recent purchase by a main dealer and so I assume? it has been the recipient of Mobil One 0W 40 oil. I will be doing some service work myself and most likely will be using an independent from now on as the car is getting on and I feel a good independent is fully capable of keeping it in tip top condition! And at half the cost!
Would there be anything detrimental in changing the oil now? Does a motor get "wedded" to a particular type and viscosity? Am I right in assuming the 0W is runnier than say the 15W? there so easier to start in cold conditions?
I am sure there are others out there who have either been through this dilemma? or are indeed considering this very issue now? I know any information will be of good use to me and I sincerely hope it will be of use to others too.... regards and thanks Dave
 
15w40 is too thick for this country. Mobil1 is a good oil for road use but should be change every 5000 miles. A 5w40 easter base is ideal, suitable for road use and track again to be chsnge every 5000 miles.
 
Ok thanks I had figured on 6000 changes so average twice yearly. I do not do many miles at the moment as recovering from Cancer so even if it has stood and turned little miles I would always still do an oil drop the same as I used to care for my Motorcycles...
 
I'm in favour for the 5W40 as well. Oil change according the service instruction would be fine.
 
Fusch Titan S 5w40 is excellent. If you want some good advice about oil contact the company opeoi . Send them an email or call them. They do great deals. All the best for your recovery. Take care.
 
opeoil!!!
 
Thanks Bill....... :lol:
 
If you have borescoring, warn engine or a rebuild (loss of tolerances), then it makes sense to change the oil to something thicker.

Every car should be run on ITS optimum grade.

You could run any car with thicker oil, but you could damage the pump, reduce flow (due to viscosity) and cause leaks due to higher pressures. You will also lose fuel economy and performance.

The last two (and the fact modern cars are very high tolerance) is why they run the thinnest oil possible.

As a car wears, you must compromise the last two for mechanical health.

There is no single age, nor mileage guide.

It is down to individual wear.

But fortunately, it is easy to measure the correct oil:

In "Xw-Y", raise the "X" until initial (cold) idle oil pressure is 5 bar.
In "Xw-Y", raise the "Y" until operating temp (hot) idle oil pressure is above 1.8-2 bar and 3.5k rpm is 5 bar.

If you have bore scoring, raise both until the oil puffs on start-up are less than once a week and less than 1 second.

Otherwise, leave as your last oil service intended.

There is a certain irony with thicker "protective" oil: it takes longer to initially get there (as high viscosity oils are slower oils).

If you want the fastest lubrication (and fast pump volumes to actuators like the cam chain tensioners and the tappets), you want the lowest cold viscosity oil you can get.
 
GT4 said:
...There is a certain irony with thicker "protective" oil: it takes longer to initially get there (as high viscosity oils are slower oils).

If you want the fastest lubrication (and fast pump volumes to actuators like the cam chain tensioners and the tappets), you want the lowest cold viscosity oil you can get.
Click to expand...

Or buy an ester oil that clings to the internals and doesn't drain off like conventional synthetics.
 
motokustom said:
I bet there is a thread somewhere so I apologise if I am opening a covered subject in advance
While recently reading a well known magazine I read that they advocate the use of Mobil One 15w 40 oil as opposed to 0W 40 oil that my local main dealer uses and recommends. Now I confess I do not know what all the listings mean? but I do know it relates to engine heat .... So question is What would or do you use in the UK?
My car has always been serviced prior to my recent purchase by a main
Click to expand...

GT4 has posted up the facts. Just to add....

The 0W40 is a 'one size fits all' solution for the OPCs. It may be the best oil for a new model, but it certainly isn't for the older models.

However it is the best solution for the OPC, to have just one grade of oil.
 
Just had my 2004 Carrera 4S serviced by porsche and they have changed from putting 0W40 Mobil to 5W50 Mobil oil in my car. They said its to eliminate oil weeping from seals on slightly older cars.
 
Martian said:
GT4 said:
...There is a certain irony with thicker "protective" oil: it takes longer to initially get there (as high viscosity oils are slower oils).

If you want the fastest lubrication (and fast pump volumes to actuators like the cam chain tensioners and the tappets), you want the lowest cold viscosity oil you can get.
Click to expand...

Or buy an ester oil that clings to the internals and doesn't drain off like conventional synthetics.
Click to expand...

That's a little conventional.

An alternative option is to never drive it.
 
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