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Possible engine problem Major or Minor

infrasilver

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4 Oct 2010
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I was at The Supercar Event today and managed to get on the track through a friend. I was taking one of the Celeb guests out in my car when the engine stopped and all the dash lights came and "take to workshop".

I got a tow off the track and parked up. A few said it could be a duff battery so I bought a new one and fitted it but there was still a problem. It will turn over but not start.
I plugged my laptop in and got the following codes.


P0343
Factory Fault Code 112 - Camshaft position sensor 1
Above limit


P0348
Camshaft position sensor 2

These themselves don't sound too bad as it could be bad wiring but I've also been hinted at that it could be IMS throwing the timing out and thus causing these codes.
When the car stalled I didn't feel any issues with the engine through the car, it was almost like I ran out of fuel then coasted to a halt.

Can anyone shed any more light on this issue?
 
If it's a durametric or compatible, monitor real time data, add the crank hall sensor / speed sensor and see if it is actually registering RPM's when cranking, should crank up to 90 rpm not sit at zero.

If you've got zero your speed sensor's dead or malfunctioning. The crank sensor won't often register a fault code, if it dies it dies, but will throw other things out if the engine RPM is not monitored correctly at the time of the fault, they especially fail when hot.

It's a guess, but just throwing ideas around and giving you a bump :)

Hope you get it sorted soon.
 
I think you would get a crank position sensor error on your car if that was the problem. Steve - yours being an earlier car it probably wouldn't, unless the engine is running.

First thing I would do is drain the oil, and strain it to see if there is any debris, and examine the oil filter.
 
Ah, yes.

The elephant in the room.

One sure fire way of losing camshaft position data, and that's to lose the camshaft/drive.

Hope it's the Hall sensor.
 
Ahhh ok.

Yes still worth checking real time date I would say, although to be safe yes check oil too, it certainly won't hurt to drop some and run a magnet close to it as it comes out.

If it just shut down and coasted nicely, and nothing audible I'd have thought a less serious issue.

Fingers crossed for you.
 
:dont know: but my fingers are crossed for you Chris.
 
Bit of an update.

I managed to get the car back home this morning at 2am, bloody AA cover was only for Roadside, I didn't even know. :splat: And they wanted £360 to upgrade and take me home. I rang around and rented a low loader for £95 for 24hr. I also damaged the front and rear PU's getting onto the truck to compound the issue, had to completely remove the front one to get it on..

Anyway the AA did plug into the car again and he checked the crank sensor (as this was his suspicion when I gave him symptoms) for voltage saying they would normally produce 2 to 3v mine was producing 0v, so its looking like the sensor at the crank. I'm surprised it doesn't throw a fault code though.
Next problem... is the sensor internal or external of the Gearbox?

I was quite worried that I was going to have a rebuild on my hands, but I'm not out of the woods yet so hopefully its just is the sensor.
 
If you want I will come over with my durametric and scan it for you.
 
infrasilver said:
Next problem... is the sensor internal or external of the Gearbox?
I changed mine recently (although my fault turned out to be something else), it's fairly easily accessible from the nsr wheel arch once you've got the wheel off.
 
Also check the wiring on the sensors plug connection(if it does not fix the issue after a new sensor is fitted. Was it wet when it failed as water can sometimes find its way into the plug connection?

In this circuit, the crankshaft position sensor generates the 58X reference signals. Its a very sensitive circuit on the car which cannot tolerate interference or a failure of another component/connection.....up or downstream on this critical circuit.

The cranshaft positioing sensor measures the 58 crankshaft pulses per crankshaft revolution. The ECU needs to measure the 58th reference then tally them with the number of camshaft position signals its been getting fed.

It's when these signals dont tally up(or no signal rec'd) that the ECU/ECM kills the power to avoid possible engine failure.

After repairing the ECU will clear after approx 35 cycles or you can use a durametric/scan tool to clear. Alternatively, disconnect the battery for 10 minute to clear the ECU.

If you never heard anything untoward then you should be fine :thumb:
 
I will dump the oil and split the filter tomorrow and hope there's nothing in there.
Although if it was a sudden failure it might not of deposited any particles near the magnetic sump plug as it won't fire up to distribute the bits. But like I say there didn't seem to be any noise or vibration and there's not any oil being lost onto the floor.

One other thing that was mentioned to me by the AA Mech was that its been heard for the sensor wiring to get crushed or trapped on some of the Porsche's.
I'll update as I get further with the prob.

Thanks for all the good info so far.
 
Bit of an update. I dumped the oil today and split the oil filter and found a couple of flakes of Aluminium in the filter and a couple of small metal fragments on the Mag sump plug. Its not had an oil and filter change for nearly a year so this isn't worrying me too much.

The filter.
2012-06-26-369.jpg



I managed to unplug the sensor wire from the plug and I tested the connection and got a reading of 8 ohms Then I put the ignition on and had a reading of 2 volts between pin 1 and 3 from the supply cable. Although this wire was tightly trapped between somewhere near the AOS I freed it before I tested it.
Does anyone know the values I should be getting?

The unusual thing was I couldn't remember which pins I checked on the sensor wire to get the 8 ohms reading and decided to check again, this time I didn't get a reading at all. I will check again with another power meter just to double check tomorrow.
 

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