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mark pearce
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Joined: 06 May 2004
Posts: 2737
Location: Nationwide


PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

on 997 gen 2
the switches dont operate when powered up via the fuse box and door catch
you need to use the button on the key to unlock the front lid
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HoocH
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Joined: 14 Nov 2011
Posts: 56



PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive tried the button on the key and nothing....

maybe flat key also?
 
  
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GT4
Nordschleife
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Joined: 08 Nov 2008
Posts: 30174
Location: Hertfordshire and Hampshire


PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HoocH wrote:
Im connectiing to the red connector in the drivers footwell. I only want to open the bonnet. But no luck!?


Is the donor car running? (don't)

Is the key in the 996 ignition? (don't until all connections made)

Connect last cable (negative) to the 996 door latch.
 
  
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GT4
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Location: Hertfordshire and Hampshire


PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark pearce wrote:
on 997 gen 2
the switches dont operate when powered up via the fuse box and door catch
you need to use the button on the key to unlock the front lid


They will if you cycle lock/unlock (but the key method always works - assuming good battery - unless you burnt the fuses/relays or DME out during "jump")
 
  
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GT4
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Location: Hertfordshire and Hampshire


PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ant Blain wrote:
GT4 wrote:
Where are trying to jump to/from?

996 can only be jumped from the engine bay (see your manual)

Do you mean a 996 should only be jumped from the engine bay? Because I've jump-started mine direct to the battery in the past; worked fine and doesn't seem to have done it any harm...? Embarassed


Yes.

I now think HoocH just meant energised from an alternative battery (although I would still like to know if the other engine was running etc), whereas I originally thought he meant "jump started".

Anyway, the 996 manual states (in order to protect the recipient car's electronics) that the donor vehicle's alternator level supply should only be connected to the specifically supplied jump start points in the engine bay.

On a 996: ALWAYS use the (+) jump terminal (circled) and the (-) brass bolt holding in the airbox.




As the 997 has an enhanced loom, this is neither necessary nor possible (no jump terminal).

Having said that, never connect the battery up with the ignition of the recipient car turned on.

Make sure all "permanent live" circuits, like headlights, indicators, some CD/radios and HVACs are off, and any cigar lighter devices (iPods etc) are unplugged.

Jump-starting a battery can create 300+ volt spikes through the recipient car's systems and this back EMF can destroy equipment. These voltage spikes are caused by the sudden current coming into the recipient car's inductances in the electrical system.

The 996 DME electronics and loom are NOT surge hardened.
 
  
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HoocH
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Joined: 14 Nov 2011
Posts: 56



PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorted. Thanks for the advise.
The problem was that the donor car was running! I really didnt think it would effect it!?

Once the bonnet was open I then had to start the donor and connect the batteries before the trickle charger would find the battery and start charging. Too low voltage im guessing.

Thanks again Smile
 
  
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GT4
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Location: Hertfordshire and Hampshire


PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For completeness, here is the 997 version (the 997 is just a heavy facelift of the 996):




As per 996, between front headlamp area/front wheel arch liner.



As per PET and photos, release is NOT handed.

997 ver runs from the (absolute) fixed actuator location on the RHS looking at front of car.

ie on LHD it exits on Driver's side, on RHD it exits Passenger's side.


Obviously attempt Red Terminal option first on 997, but other factors (eg actuator failure) can require manual overide.
 
  
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GT4
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to do this a month ago on a 996.1 lever model, and honestly, without the C3 fuse buddy, the easiest access was via the nearside tail lamp release wire and then attaching jump leads to the positive jump lead terminal and airbox negative bolt.

Stick a pencil under there (to raise lamp unit a fraction) and fish out the metal cable (bend something no scratching into a hook an pull out).
 
  
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GT4
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Location: Hertfordshire and Hampshire


PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear lamp access is actually my preferred route, given all the issues with the front cables (they swap sides dependent on model year and they often get re-sited away from their factory location during headlamp, bumper, rads, suspension works etc)

The rear lamp access requires:

A pencil
A plastic 30 cm ruler or straightened coat hanger will hook fashioned out if the last 1 cm
A torch may assist in spotting where the loop is under the lamp



Poke the pencil (or other soft wedge that won't damage the paintwork or headlamp plastic) between the base of the tail lamp to create a 5+mm gap

Now fish around from right to left with fishing implements as described above, and extract the cable out the side of the lamp.

Takes seconds.

Hence it is now my preferred option.

Energise or jump-start using the engine bay terminals as per the previous instructions.
 
  
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smj043
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Joined: 11 Aug 2011
Posts: 56
Location: St Albans


PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 2:48 pm    Post subject: Bonnet Release Reply with quote

GT4's method via the nearside rear lamp, with chopsticks and straightened wire coat hanger worked in seconds. Battery charging now...1 year old bosch with 5 yr guarantee. I am wondering if putting the hard top on last week left some light on inside or something odd. 996.1 1999 C4 Cab
 
  
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Niall996
Imola


Joined: 07 Nov 2010
Posts: 843
Location: Paris


PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forget IMS. This really has to be the most ridiculously stupid thing about 996's. I can't believe they didn't change it for the 997. Please tell me it's not the situation with 991's? Did Porsche engineers really not consider that someone might get a flat battery someday?
 
  
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GT4
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just as an update (clarification)

Be aware there can be issues on using various "Earthing" points

For example, the door striker plate (the hoop on the door frame), is deliberately isolated from the bodywork on later models by a plastic shim to prevent cathodic corrosion due to the differing metals.

So make sure a suitable earth is used if running the Red Tag solution.
 
  
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Robertb
Dijon


Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 7324
Location: South Oxfordshire

2002 Porsche 996 Carrera 4S

PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

... and I read a great tip on here to keep the locking wheel socket in the cabin in case you need to remove the wheel to get at the wheelarch liner, rather than in the spare wheel well...
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