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Headlight unit won't lock back into place

S

Storm

Spa-Francorchamps
Joined
16 Sep 2009
Messages
275
Hi,

I've been working on both my headlights today, upgrading them to HID bulbs. It's not exactly gone smoothly, but I've overcome all other problems only to find that one of my highlights won't lock back into place.

It slides in nicely, sits perfectly flush, but when I rotate the socket it just sort of free-wheels and doesn't catch onto anything.

Does anyone have any idea of what I should look for? I've tried removing the HID ballast and it still won't fit, so it's no related to the new kit.

Does anyone know anything about this locking mechanism?

Thanks,

Mike
 
not much help sorry except the sides lock in the same direction , meaning they work opposite to each other cant remember off hand but if its clockwise on the one side towards the rear its anti clockwise on the other still towards the rear ,

i've confused myself now how you understand what i'm getting at


Rob
 
Yeah, I'm sure I was going the right way, because one way pushed the headlight back out, and the other way did absolutely nothing.

I hadn't realised it was different on each side though, I must've automatically adjusted!
 
Here's a good vid showing the headlamp removal



TB
 
The locking bolts/locking levers rotate in only one 180 degree arc.

To lock: each side turns in opposite ways as you are turning different ends (one RHS, the other LHS) of the locking bolt.

Whichever side it is, it needs to rotate the locking bolt from effectively bottom dead centre to top dead centre rotating in the direction that points towards the rear on the end top stroke.

By that I mean it will locate into the underside of the lamp unit about 90 degrees from the bottom and continue to turn in the lamp channel pushing it up and back (into bonnet).

From locked, rotating the opposite direction releases and drops the unit down (off load) and pushes forward out of the bonnet.

The units must slot correctly in the runners (front and rear of lamps) and the final up rotation must end in an audible click (you will feel a definite detent jerk on the locking tool aswell on successful locking).

If you check the manual it has a description and pictures which will make this much more understandable.

In the case of your "free-wheeling", what you now have is either a rounded out locking tool, or more likely a fractured locking tool.

Look carefully at the socket head/end - it probably has one or two hairline fractures where the socket just opens up and spins on the locking bolt head.

The locking tool is crap. Very cheap manufacture.

Pick up a replacement at an OPC for about £9 to keep in your tool kit. They probably have them on the shelf as they break all the time.

They are really meant for emergencies (bulb changes etc), and can cope with unlocking OK. However, the higher torque required to lock the lamp units means the locking tool only lasts a few attempts before "bursting".

If you want to fiddle with your lamp units (taking them in and out) at home, just use a 5mm socket on a slim long reach socket rachet etc.

EDITED: BECAUSE IT IS 5mm not 6mm
 
Thanks guys.

I'll take a look at the locking tool again tomorrow, in the daylight. However, it still operates the other side fine, so I suspect that's probably not the problem. Worth a closer examination though anyway!
 
OK, either one side requires more torque than the other, or possibly the locking bolt is rounded off (this happens if you burst the locking tool, then continue to turn on the locking bolt head).

You may need:

Locking tool = £9
Locking bolt = £11 each

Locking tool + locking bolts etc !

Of course the above assumes correct runner alignment.
 
Ok, either way seems like a relatively inexpensive fix. Thanks.

2nd question - The 996 is the only car I've got access to this week. Can the car be driven without a headlight in place (if I left it in, but not locked and broke, I can see the headlight not stopping...)?
 
Correct.

1) £400ish shattered on road.
2) non-road worthy car (no front indicator on that side, remaining indicators flashing double speed, and dependent on MY of 996, a bunch of error/fault lamps on the dash.

Even if the tool and/or locking bolt is burst/rounded, just use a nice precision manufactured 5mm socket.

The shank on the locking bolt has about 20mm hex section, the locking tool only fits less than 10mm of shank into the socket. Therefore either a decent socket will grab the flats, or at worst you have the unmolested/perfect hex section at the base of the shank to turn on.

EDITED: BECAUSE IT IS A 5mm NOT 6mm
 
GT4 strikes again. It's rounded. The tool seems fine, but the locking system is rounded off.

I've not got a 6mm socket, so I guess I'll have to go a hunting for one.

Thanks!
 
Personally, I would buy a replacement locking tool at the same time.

Oherwise it may just do the same again to new locking bar, then you're back to square one again.

When you pop the lamp units back in, hold both palms on the lamp front lens and try to push, pull, slide with the friction of your (sweaty!) palms.

There must be absolutely NO movement. Very expensive if not locked in (new lamp and probably a repaint for the front PU it scratched across on its way out).
 
Don't panic, i had an identical problem when i changed my orange indicator bulbs for clear ones.

First side went back fine, the second just side just wouldn't catch. I thought I broken the light fixing mechanisum.

A couple of hours later i had another go at it but with my own tool set it worked first time. I was very releived.

by the way, how are the HID lights looking?
 
Well I've not gotten anywhere with this.

I've bought a small socket set from halfords (the 5mm socket fitted, the 6mm didn't even seem close), but still it slips around.

I'm going to call the OPC now to see if they've got a bar, but I can't see how the hell you'd go about replacing that as it seems pretty tight in there...

edit: Not really had much chance to play with the lights. I just really confirmed they were working, but it was still daylight then!
 
Bar £11 from Porsche.

Fitting £130 + vat. I mean FFS. It looks simple enough if you know what you're doing!

... does anyone know what they're doing? And if so - got they throw some advice my way as to how to fit it? :)
 
FIXED!

Sorry, I'm probably boring everyone to death here...

I found an even smaller socket adaptor, jammed it on the end and that held long enough to lock it into place.

I'm still going to pick up the spare bar from Porsche tomorrow, but I think I'll get it fitted by an indie next time my car is in.

Thanks for everyone's help!
 
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