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Eratic Idle

Fiona Morrison

Active member
Joined
18 Dec 2006
Messages
42
Does anyone know why my 3.2 revs up and down on cold start. Doesn't do it every start and the car seems to be driving fine. If you rev it up after starting (dont like doing it!)sometimes it stops but it def goes away when warmed up.




Migration info. Legacy thread was 108473
 
Fiona

I am no expert!......This is a commonly reported problem with 3.2's, most of them do it at some stage or another. If you look through the earlier pages of this section of the site you will find a number of references to the same/similar thing!

Most common problems are the airflow meter/sensor, corroded fuses, split or loose hoses, cylinder head temp sensor etc............suggest read the posts to get a flavour, don't worry.........you are not alone! :)


Migration info. Legacy thread was 108483
 
You should start without touching the accelerator.I was told. When starting the 3.2 do not rev just start and let it idle for a short time.Is this what your doing?Again, as above I am not an expert!

Migration info. Legacy thread was 108576
 
Hi Carl. YEs i just start wiht key and clutch pepressed. No accelerator. It starts fine but they the revs go up and down as if you were blipping the throttle. I was just wondering if I can ignore it or go organise a mortgage to fix.. assuming it needs fixed as car seems fine otherwise.

Must get nice piccie of Audi onto the other thread.. :)


Migration info. Legacy thread was 108581
 
Check list - start with the "back to basics" approach with some low cost housekeeping.

3.2 has an electronic injection system and sensors which depend on good earth and clean tight contacts to receive the correct readings from the engine. Reductions in current flow caused by poor connections bad earths and corroded fuses WILL cause hard to find engine faults.

1 Battery fully charged and connections tight (including engine earth strap)and with vaseline on the battery connection posts.
2 Fuses all renewed for good electrical contact.(cheap)
3 Clean the interior of the distributor cap, its brass bits and the rotor arm brass bits (a new rotor arm is cheap too).

If it still does it after this - take it to a good local independant Porsche maintainer - at least doing the above first will give him a car with the basic system in good shape.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 108586
 
Hi Fiona,

If its not bothering you 2 much I would leave till you've got some spare cash to sort it . As you've said car seems fine when warm.

Have you this Porsche warranty cover thats available, not 2 sure about it some guys were talking about it on here last week.It seems well worth it if you can get it for the age of the car .

I assume you can.


Migration info. Legacy thread was 108604
 
Thanks for ideas. Hadn't heard about the warranty thing Carl. Car currently has a warranty but it would appear to be crap! We had to get the starter motor done not long after we bought it as it was playing up and occ all you got was a click. I knew it was either solenoid or starter but to cut a long story short warranty company decided they will only pay cheapest part price less 30%! Why.. because of the cars age! They knew what age it was and there is nowt in warranty doc re reductions so we are fighting it. They also refused to pay for extended labour when the garage couldnt get the old one out as someone had jiggered the fixings!. Needed the engine dropping!

Anyway... still love her to bits and at lea\st she starts willingly now :)


Migration info. Legacy thread was 108628
 
From what i can remember they said it was £900 a year,covers most things, I think it was parts and labour.Not 100% youll need one of the guys on here who were talking about it to give an input.To get the facts.good luck Fiona.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 108635
 

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