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powerloss on 3.2!

S

swiss tony

New member
Joined
11 Aug 2006
Messages
9
Hi guys , its my first time so be gentle.

Have an increasingly bad problem on my 89 3.2 carrera , it happens when the car is up to full temp and i have been driving for at least 20mins. The car will suddenly lose power and lurch violently and struggle to regain itself , if i back off it eases slightly but then comes straight back if i try to increase speed. I've just tried a new DME relay switch but to no avail. The car has recently had a 12k service so it will have new plugs etc. I think the problem is fuel related but don't know what to try next!

Any suggestions would be grately appreciated


Migration info. Legacy thread was 69372
 
I had a missfire on my 3.2 - here is what cured mine....

There is a new manual (which I purchased after fixing the problem!)
for the 911 Carrera printed by Bentley Publishers which contains this
paragraph regarding the electronic ignition on the 911.

Page 200-13 Engine management
"All the cars covered by this manual use engine management systems
that rely on precise electrical signals for proper operation. Some of
the DME circuits operate on very low current and are sensitive to
increased resistance due to faulty or corroded wiring or connectors.
If any of these signals are distorted, incorrect or missing the car
can develop major driveability problems."

Several months ago the car started to fire on 3 or 4 or 5 cylinders
when started from cold - then it would pick up on the offending
cylinders when the engine was warm.

THE ONLY PROBLEM WAS CORRODED FUSES - an instant fix (with much improved smoothness and performance) was to clean and eventually replace the fuses and to clean the terminal connections into which they fit!

There appears to be a steady trickle of problems on the problem pages
of the magazines and web chat room sites all of which are contributed to by corroded fuses.

Ray Northway hit the nail on the head when he said he had seen this with earlier cars but not the 3.2 - but the reason its happening now is that the cars continue to age!


Migration info. Legacy thread was 69377
 
This is usually the maf sensor problem clean the unit and retest cheers simon millbrookecars.com


Migration info. Legacy thread was 69548
 
Cheers for the advice Simon

Where is the maf sensor? and would brake/clutch cleaner be ok to use?

cheers for help


Migration info. Legacy thread was 70237
 
The maf sensor is positioned on the main intake pipe which comes out off the air cleaner and is connected to the throttle housing. It is connected to the plastic tube by means of 2 size 25 female tamperproof spline bits, remove these and the unit lifts out, the tool required is available at any halford/tool shops, to undo these,or you will may well have one. Brake cleaner is ok to use, or alternativly surgical spirit can be used, it is just required to clean the sensor as dirt and oils contaminate the sensor, and it gives the ecu/dme incorrect readings. hope this helps simon

Migration info. Legacy thread was 70475
 
WRONG 3.2 CARRERA`S HAVE A BARN DOOR AIR FLOW METER NOT A MAF SENSOR. THE IAC AND AIR FLOW METER SHOULD BOTH BE CLEANED OUT

Migration info. Legacy thread was 70511
 
Previous poster said:
Quote: Originally posted by Sid Spanner on 21 August 2006

WRONG 3.2 CARRERA`S HAVE A BARN DOOR AIR FLOW METER NOT A MAF SENSOR. THE IAC AND AIR FLOW METER SHOULD BOTH BE CLEANED OUT
Click to expand...
Simon, Sid is correct as he has a solid reputation with Porsche cars

Migration info. Legacy thread was 70657
 
Hi Tony.

I've just got (thank the lord) a 3.2 SSE and it's doing the same thing. Have you solved this problem, and if you have what was the remedy?


Migration info. Legacy thread was 101832
 
Hi all.

Now solved the problem. It was the temperature sensor at the back of the engine. Turns out, when it was fully warmed up, at full throttle, the sensor was sending signals to the ECU to richen up the mixture (Hence the farting, popping, black smoke and cutting out). All I do now is disconnect the sensor and bridge the connection with a paperclip (when fully warm), as this replicates the signal that the sensor would send the ECU in those conditions.

I'll get a new sensor fitted at the next service - apparently about 200 quid all in.


Migration info. Legacy thread was 103890
 
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