Too low??

Nathan · 12 May 2003

Lowered the old girl at the weekend but think I might have gone a little too far. What d'ya reckon guys?

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3523

James Ball · 12 May 2003

It does look pretty low. Has comfort suffered noticably? I reckon you could go a little higher and keep it looking mean.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3527

Jamie Summers · 12 May 2003

Nathan,

just right at the front, just a wee bit low at the back I reckon - but I suppose you'd end up throwing out the balance by correcting it. I believe the front is meant to be slightly higher than the rear. I think aesthetically that they look best with the wheel perfectly filling the arch ie. top of the tyre level with bottom of the wing - no doubt this is probably not the best for technical set up but you can't have the best of both worlds !

Jamie

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3536

Nathan · 12 May 2003

Ride quality is just as good (or bad!) as before, and the way it pitches (the feeling you get to remind you of all the weight in the back) seems less. This has improved (reduced) understeer, particularly on bumpy roads. On top of that the rear end now feels much more planted, I guess because of the additional negative camber on the rear. This certainly inspires more confidence in the twisty stuff - maybe too much!

I think I'm going to raise the rear by half an inch or so. I'm worried about the large rear overhang leaving me stranded like a beached whale somewhere, and it does look a little low from certain angles (below)

By the way, all this was achieved within about an hour using the 11mm screws on the front and the 24mm nuts/eccentric bolts on the rear radius arms.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3550

anil999 · 13 May 2003

Nathan

The lowered look suits your car perfectly. So much so, that I would like my '88 coupe to be lowered to the same levels.

Can you please explain the steps you took to adjust the front and rear using the eccentic bolts. Did you need any special tools? Did you encounter any problems during the proecedure?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Anil

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3564

s marjoram · 13 May 2003

Looks good but a tad low on the rear - the rear is supposed to be a tiny bit higher than the front - or at least level - but not lower. I'd be interested in hearing how you did it so quickly too.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3569

Nathan · 13 May 2003

The front suspension has an 11mm bolt at the rear of each front torsion bar. Simply jack up the car and wind it out the same number of turns on both sides (I did 3.5 turns each). It's that easy

The rear is slightly more difficult. Jack up the car, remove both wheels and support on axle stands. There are two 24mm nuts/bolts on each rear radius arm, towards the front of the arm whete the out and inner plates meet. These are very tight and need a good long bar to free them. The one nearest the front on each side is a locking bolt, and the rearward one is and eccentric bolt. The arms are slotted as opposed to holes, so once the bolts are loose turn the eccentric one whilst pushing the hub & disc assembly up into the wheelarch (a trolley jack under the hub/disc makes it easier). You'll see the arm pivot where it joins the front half. Once you're happy the adjustment is the same on both sides (I scribed a line on the radius arm as a reference point so I could measure the actual movement) tighten everything up and away you go!! FYI I measured a 15mm change where the two arms meet.

With regards to the rear being higher, you're correct in that it should be BUT the rear wheelarch comes down lower than the front so even with the correct rake the front looks higher than the rear. Mine has 1.5" difference when measured from the ground to the bottom of the wheelarch through the centre of the wheel, and I understand this should be about an inch so I'll be raising the car slightly at the weekend.

No special tools are needed other than a 24mm socket on a BIG bar, and a 24 and 35 (I think) spanner for the eccentric bolt. It really is simple, so I'm sorry if my explanation above sounds complicated. The best thing to do is look, you can see the rear bolts in front of the rear wheels when the car is sat on the ground.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3581

anil999 · 14 May 2003

Nathan

Thanks for the info. I understand that you need a 24mm socket and spanner , but what do you use the 35mm spanner for?

Do you plan on having the corner balance checked when going for an alignmrent, or is it not worth doing on a road car?

Thanks

Anil

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3593

Nathan · 14 May 2003

The 35mm spanner is for the bolt half of the eccentric bolt. The bolt itself has a 35mm head - the nut on the other side of it is 24mm. Just check it is 35mm in the manual before you go out and buy any tools. I borrowed a large spanner set from a friend and think I ended up with a 35 (it's not tight anyway once the nut is undone). I probably won't touch the corner weights. They'll be as near now as they were before I altered the suspension, which can't have been bang-on after 14 years of wear and tear on the torsion bars etc. Providing it feels OK when I'm on the track next week I'll leave them as they are. I see the benefits as being minimal.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3597

JamesM · 15 May 2003

The front looks good, but I agree with a few of the comments that it looks a tad low on the rear! Nice car all the same!

Migration info. Legacy thread was 3632

Too low??

Nathan

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James Ball

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Jamie Summers

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Nathan

Monza

anil999

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s marjoram

Trainee

Nathan

Monza

anil999

New member

Nathan

Monza

JamesM

Hockenheim

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