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Centre Lock Wheels.

Norfolk & Idea

Well-known member
Joined
15 Jan 2016
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2,122
Has anyone bought the kit for removing these? I'm thinking about equipping my garage for this task.

As far as I can work out it's a 3/4 drive torque wrench 200-600ftlb's, 3/4 drive breaker bar, guide rod for PCCB rotors, and appropriate lubricant. Anything else?

It all seems fairly straight forward to me but the way some talk you'd think we had to crack the enigma code.

Since the torque setting is so high I wondered if the material stretch factor comes into play and you only get so many shots before having to replace hardware?? Any enlightenment would be good, ta :thumb:
 
Rennlist member said:
Hello everyone,

I'm having some difficulty finding a DIY guide for removing the wheels on a 997.2 tts equipped with CL's.



I found this Porsche 911 991 GT3 Center Lock Wheel Removal and Replacement Procedure - YouTube video but it applies to the 991 GT3. Is the procedure the same? If not, can someone be kind enough to point me in the right direction?

I have already purchased the tools necessary based on recommendations found here. I have also gone over the owners manual but was hoping for a video, or someones first-hand experience e.g. do & don'ts, gotchas, etc.

Many Thanks!




Found this on RL :thumb:
 
Thanks :) :thumbs:
 
The danger is whilst taking the wheel off you chip the ceramic brake which is very costly hence I leave to OPC or Indy to do - think they may even have tool which prevents you chipping brake disc by mistake ;)
 
He mentioned the guide rod. That's what people use to avoid wheel/disc contact.
 
IMI A said:
The danger is whilst taking the wheel off you chip the ceramic brake which is very costly hence I leave to OPC or Indy to do - think they may even have tool which prevents you chipping brake disc by mistake ;)

Sure, they will have. It's a straight forward bit of kit. It screws into the (now removed) lock nut threads and is like a small rolling pin about 8" long. It enables you to draw off the wheel without impacting the ridiculously expensive discs.... eeeek....
 
You are not supposed to undo the center lock nut with the car on the ground .. it should be raised with a second person applying the foot brake .

The guide tube .. very expensive but it's something i always use .. there is a similar set of pins for 5 bolt wheels which again on ceramic brakes i always use .
 
I thought the whole point of centre lock wheels was to save time when changing wheels during a race... Is this just not a fashion thing that looks cool but is a bit impractical?
 
One of these is very useful if doing it alone.
 

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I'm not a fan of center locks for one main reason ..

It's a huge torque wrench we have to get these off and i can end up with my entire 9.5 stone of weight swinging on the dam bar without it coming undone

Bear Grylls crossing a canyon on a rope springs to mind of me trying to undo these .


:floor:
 
deMort said:
I'm not a fan of center locks for one main reason ..

It's a huge torque wrench we have to get these off and i can end up with my entire 9.5 stone of weight swinging on the dam bar without it coming undone

Bear Grylls crossing a canyon on a rope springs to mind of me trying to undo these .


:floor:

Not a fan, the devils own work really and a marketing faux pas in the extreme but you have to forgive that as they are attached to some might fine cars :)

They always seem to need more ooomph to get them off than put them on!

Big breaker bar for getting off better than a torque wrench :thumb: :D
 
Totally agree .. been a huge porsche fan for almost 16 years .. which coincidentally is the time i've been working on them !

years ago and we had three of us swinging on a bar trying to get a nut undone .. 2 of us got hurt when it finally gave way .

Torque wrench we have kinda doubles up as a beaker bar , you reverse it .. all i know is its heavy and im too small to do this dam job lol .

Second point though .. they must be done up tight enough .. i had one a " tyre " company had changed the tyres on .. nuts not tight enough and i replaced x2 hubs , x1 wheel and some fixings on the other ones .. the red lock parts ..

expensive job that was .
 
I`d never shift a centre lock nut then :nooo:

I just had a battle with the wheel nuts on my daily, had to get the wheel off to change a headlight bulb, I couldn`t shift the bolts with my 36" breaker bar, took it back to the garage that fitted the tyres, they couldn`t shift them with their impact guns, they ended up getting their HGV tyre guy to shift them with a MASSIVE breaker bar :nooo:

When I came to put the wheel back on, they had damaged the threads and I had to run a tap down them to get the bolts back in :nooo:
 
Plenty of ally grease on the bolt threads and mainly at the far end .. a little under the collar doesn't hurt but never on the cone .

100 ft lbs of torque to do up .. if the new type black bolts have been fitted then its 118 ft lbs of torque ... 130 / 160 nm .

Tyre garages .. it tends to be an airgun which is often too tight .
 
To remove them, the best option is to source (new or used) a Norbar HT3 5:1 torque multiplier (the 1300Nm version has the input and output that you want) and a standard 750mm breaker bar. That really does get them off every time and pretty much anybody will be able to do it (note - use the reaction bar against the floor {use a wooden block under it if the car is jacked too high or on axle stands - it isn't the longest}, not the alternative brace included in the kit : that is strictly for truck wheels and railway sleepers and will supposedly snap the spokes of your alloys).

There are other options such as the cheaper Sealey 3.3:1 (which I also have as it is much smaller, so lives in the boot full time in case of emergency) but if they are up for a fight the Norbar just makes such an easy job of it. It is hilariously over-engineered for the job, but trust me you will love it.

You can actually put them back on with a torque multiplier and a conventional torque wrench too, though personally I have a 4' Norbar torque wrench (occasionally available for civilised money in the second hand market) for that part of the job.
:thumb:
 

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