Replacement Brake Lines - Brake Bleed Question

SpennyUK71 · 16 Feb 2020

Hi all

Reference 2002 C4 tiptronic with PSM.

I am looking at replacing all flexible brake lines with stainless steel alternatives, whilst at the same time, I am looking to remove the callipers for a full clean, inspection, refurb where required and new paint.

The question I have relates to the brake bleed. In the 101 projects book by Wayne Dempsey, it states the following...

For cars with traction control or Porsche Stability Management (PSM), you need to use the Porsche System Tester 2 (PST2) in order to activate the valves in the hydraulic unit during the bleeding process... you will need to go to a shop that has a PST2 so that the brake system can be bled properly.

I am not looking to do a full flush as my fluid has been changed in the last year, so is the use of a PST2 really necessary for a top up to replace what will be lost only from the flexible brake lines and callipers?

I appreciate any help you can provide :thumb:

Paynewright · 16 Feb 2020

When I changed the front lines my system drained itself. I bled as normal and asked my indy to re-bleed doing the ABS valve thing but was told they never bother.

I'm just changing the remaining original rigid lines (x3) and rear hoses / calliper pipes and have put a rubber glove on the reservoir and screwed the cap back on - this has stopped it draining due to gravity, so apart from the new lines no air should get in.

Ian

deMort · 16 Feb 2020

Question has already been answered but just to point out ..

You only use the tester to bleed the abs unit when it is replaced or has drained out .. as the valves are closed when not in use then it technically cant drain out by draining the brake fluid.

It holds very little actual brake fluid so is not worth using on a normal brake fluid change ... it's only ever done to get air out of it , at least that's the only times i've ever done it .

SpennyUK71 · 16 Feb 2020

Thanks for the replies guys, I will crack on this weekend :dance:

skinny_monkey · 16 Feb 2020

Unless you've got air through the master cylinder you don't need to activate the abs valves for a bleed. However one thing you can do is ensure you get some fresh fluid going through by triggering the ABS a few times on the drive after you've flushed the system.

wasz · 16 Feb 2020

I struggled to get a good pedal with my pressure bleeder.

Had to take it to garage who used a vacuum bleeder with great success.

Wasn't hooked up to the computer to do it.

skinny_monkey · 17 Feb 2020

wasz said:
I struggled to get a good pedal with my pressure bleeder.

Had to take it to garage who used a vacuum bleeder with great success.

Wasn't hooked up to the computer to do it.

I had the same using pressure bleeder alone. But combined with pumping the pedal, sorted it. Still needed a good few goes tho.

wasz · 17 Feb 2020

Oh yeah and before you go to the bother you want to check all the old old steel lines along their whole length as they corrode in the clips over the gearbox unseen, in front of steering rack, and under the undertrays.

UncleP · 17 Feb 2020

In the middle of this job at the moment. When I asked regarding the ABS pump I was told it would only need activating if I got air in the system up stream of the pump.

I've removed all calipers and flexis and just plugged up the open ends of lines with "things". The cap is still tight on the reservoir and very little fluid has leaked out despite the car now being sat for a few weeks due to complications.

Replacement Brake Lines - Brake Bleed Question

SpennyUK71

New member

Paynewright

Montreal

deMort

Monaco

SpennyUK71

New member

skinny_monkey

Montreal

wasz

Paul Ricard

skinny_monkey

Montreal

wasz

Paul Ricard

UncleP

Montreal

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