Help! Replacing coolant return pipe (part 997.106.809.02)

portreathbeach · 23 Nov 2019

I got home today to find coolant pissing out from under the car!!!

After jacking it up an removing the rear passenger side wheel, I found that the coolant was coming from the aluminium coolant return pipe (part 997.106.809.02), the part number sticker happened to be right beside the place it is damaged. The pipe is just above the rear CV joint.

The cause of the issue is that someone has used a jubilee clip on the smaller pipe in front of this one and the large part of the jubilee clip (the part that houses the screw) has actually scraped a hole in the pipe.

Here are a couple of pictures...

So, my main question is, has anyone replaced this pipe or know how too? The pipe that needs changing is pretty long and I'm not sure how easy it's going to be to get the old one out and thread the new one in. I'm hoping it's not an engine out job.

deMort · 23 Nov 2019

I guess i'm going to be the bearer of bad news here .. that part is the over engine coolant pipe .. it's an engine drop to replace im afraid .

I can think of a possible bodge if you are in dire straights and funds aren't available this side of xmas .. pm me if so .

portreathbeach · 23 Nov 2019

Engine out! Are you definitely sure?

I managed to find the part at Pelican parts, it's actually not too bad of a price, but I don't really want to drop the engine, but I guess I'll have too if that's the only way.

I was hoping there was some trick to somehow thread it out and thread the new one in.

What is the potential bodge? If I have to drop the engine, I'm afraid I'll have to take it to my nearest Porsche indy garage, but it's 60 miles away.

deMort · 23 Nov 2019

Am i sure ...

No. 2 goes to the coolant bottle area .. on the chassis leg that side anyways ..

have a look from the top at the bottle side and you will see it .

Image below is the pipe i'm talking about .. if we are on about different pipes then please state which one as this is the part number for this pipe .

A total bodge .. which i've never tried and basically came up with to try and help out ...

Disconnect the rubber pipe on the gearbox side of that .. drain out the coolant ..

Clean and a light sand down of the hole in the pipe .. once fully dry you will fill it and spread out engine grade silicone sealant .

You will need a strip of rubber about 1-2 mm thick and 1 cm wide .. wrap this around the pipe and over the hole then use a band type jubilee clip to lock it all in place .

it's a bodge ... it should work .. i've never tried it and probably wouldn't but it might fix the leak .

portreathbeach · 23 Nov 2019

The part number of the pipe that is damaged in my car is 997.106.809.02 as the sticker with this number on happens to be right beside the hole.

By looking at the image you supplied, it definitely looks like the engine has to be dropped, looks like there is no way that can be done with the engine in place.

Looks like a fairly easy job when the engine is out though

Do you know how long it would it take for an indy to drop out the engine, fit the pipe and put back together?

Thanks again for your help

Lee997 · 23 Nov 2019

Ooh that pipe looks nasty to replace! Even with thin hands (like me) Demort will testify to that ( that sounds rude?),
Anyways, I've been playing with hoses and pipes of varying pressures upto 400 bar for the last 30 years! I'd agree with Demort but add one possible addition to his method of a temp fix!

Clean area, use a good quality sealant ( we use a sealant at our workshop that is hrs enough to drill and tap after) put then fi5 a piece of rubber hose spit long it's length so that you can fit it over the damaged area the. Fit 2 jubilee clips over the top of it to secure.

Although this is only a temp repair if done correctly will last indefinitely. I've carried out repairs like this for customers that couldn't afford or suffer the down time and have lasted forever.

PS, if your near essex I'd take a look at it for you if your concerned about doing the repair ?

Lee.

deMort · 23 Nov 2019

Trust me .. if there was a way to get it out without an engine drop then i would love to know how .. i'm not a fan of dropping engines .. i hate getting covered in coolant for a start !!

Engine R&R is approx 8-9 hrs on a manual car .. 13 ish on a tip .

Say a couple of hours to replace the pipe .. 1 might be ok but im kinda giving some wriggle room for the garage .

Downside .. what else you might want to replace once the engine is out .. brake pipes , the other coolant pipes etc etc .. it soon adds up .

Just this pipe though and approx .. £1 - 1.1 K labour plus parts depending on your Indys labour rate .

Hence my " bodge " which i think will work although not easy in the limited space will save you a fair bit .

deMort · 23 Nov 2019

Lee997 said:
Ooh that pipe looks nasty to replace! Even with thin hands (like me) Demort will testify to that ( that sounds rude?),
Anyways, I've been playing with hoses and pipes of varying pressures upto 400 bar for the last 30 years! I'd agree with Demort but add one possible addition to his method of a temp fix!

Clean area, use a good quality sealant ( we use a sealant at our workshop that is hrs enough to drill and tap after) put then fi5 a piece of rubber hose spit long it's length so that you can fit it over the damaged area the. Fit 2 jubilee clips over the top of it to secure.

Although this is only a temp repair if done correctly will last indefinitely. I've carried out repairs like this for customers that couldn't afford or suffer the down time and have lasted forever.

PS, if your near essex I'd take a look at it for you if your concerned about doing the repair ?

Lee.

A good alternative and one i would do if it was my car .. not sure what the sealant is though .. the " metal " types won't seal .. Lee can you post or PM me on what sealant you are mentioning .. all i know is a Loctite grade we use .. kinda like treacle .

portreathbeach · 23 Nov 2019

What sealant do you use Lee?

I don't really want to do a bodge job on this, but the labour will be a lot of cash!

All this because someone put a jubilee clip on in such a way that it was rubbing the other pipe!

My car is a tiptronic, so it looks like the labour will be even more!

deMort · 23 Nov 2019

Tip and its 13 hrs R&R for just the engine .

The sealant we use is this ..

https://www.eurocarparts.com/search...MI0saJ7pGB5gIViKztCh0hWwYmEAQYASABEgKdw_D_BwE

This will do the job but i'd love to know what an expert on this sort of thing recommends .. i only know the porsche stuff im afraid .

Bodge sounds awful .. let's call it a temp repair for now ... which may last for a long time .

Lee997 · 23 Nov 2019

I'll get a picture of the can tomorrow, do t know what it's called off hand, Demort it's the same stuff I used for my casing repair recently which is still holding leak free!

But I'm impressed with it, I'd liked to have known about it years ago with all those hydraulic repairs I used to do?

Again Demort it leaves locatite products for dead! We use this on race cars to bolt into?

Lee.

deMort · 23 Nov 2019

Send me what you have please on this .. i'm always interested in new things that might help me day to day .. let alone the OP of this thread !

cheers young man :thumb:

Time to go i feel .. until tomorrow night

portreathbeach · 23 Nov 2019

I think I'll do the sealant and hose fix for now. If the engine ever needs to get dropped for another job, I'll get the pipe changed out then.

I'm guessing a flexible sealant is better than a solid expoxy due to thermal expansion of the pipe?

I'll keep you posted on the results.

darkhorse · 24 Nov 2019

For a patch I would use a copper rtv but any decent rtv should do it (instant gasket). Just make sure the pipe is totally cleaned up on the surface where the adhesive will bond, then clean it with alcohol before repair; and you will need to be sure its totally dry throughout the process and until its cured. Then you will need to refill and burp the coolant system or possibly vacuum fill it depending on how much water has escaped/air has got in.

jl-c · 24 Nov 2019

I am sure I am not the only one watching this with interest as this 'product" could be very useful to have in our tools arsenal. (Sorry for the slight hijack)

Help! Replacing coolant return pipe (part 997.106.809.02)

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