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Slow Cranking

Steve997

Well-known member
Joined
11 Aug 2013
Messages
278
My 997.1 C2S is slow to crank. She fires up ok, but takes about 2 seconds of cranking where other cars I ve driven seem to fire up instantly.

I ve renewed the battery and the starter / alternator lead but no improvement, the car is still very slow to crank over and fire up.

Any ideas?

I tested the alternator with my voltmeter and got the 13.95 volts with the engine running on my C2s.

I tested the wife's BMW and that alternator is putting a more healthy 14.8 volts out.

What do other peoples cars alternators generate? is 13.95 volts normal on a 997 normal / typical ?
 
Engine earth strap?
 
Pass. There's a few threads on here about it if you do a search.
 
I am starting to get the same issue..again! New battery two years ago so ruling that out, plus voltage is healthy at rest and 13.7-8 at idle! Thinking it might be the power distribution pin as Dermot suggests or the starter motor cable that runs over the engine! Wondering if there is any way to isolate the problem :?
 
To check the power dist pin .. remove battery leads (always neg lead first ) .. slide the battery to the o/s .. use a long screwdriver to push the red tag down on the positive lead .. it should then with a screwdriver lever out and expose the pin.

You dont have to totally remove the positive lead from the pin as it can be a bit of a pain to refit .. you need to expose enough to see if theres corrosion there ... pin is chrome plated .. if brown its no good .

If theres just a 13mm nut that end then this mod has already been done .

High resistance due to corrosion = slow turn over of the engine on starting .. extreme corrossion will cause flat battery symptoms .

If the lead wont move back and is stiff to turn .. you have problems and need to either folow my guide or get a garage involved .

For the starter cable then remove the throttle body / plenium chamber at the front .. you then have access to the starter .
 
Steve997 said:
deMort said:
To save the search .. yup im bored :D

O/S/R.

Is that neat the coil heat shields and the back box tucked in the rear arch ?

Didnt understand this question .. coils are behind that heat sheild though .
 
deMort said:
To check the power dist pin .. remove battery leads (always neg lead first ) .. slide the battery to the o/s .. use a long screwdriver to push the red tag down on the positive lead .. it should then with a screwdriver lever out and expose the pin.

You dont have to totally remove the positive lead from the pin as it can be a bit of a pain to refit .. you need to expose enough to see if theres corrosion there ... pin is chrome plated .. if brown its no good .

If theres just a 13mm nut that end then this mod has already been done .

High resistance due to corrosion = slow turn over of the engine on starting .. extreme corrossion will cause flat battery symptoms .

If the lead wont move back and is stiff to turn .. you have problems and need to either folow my guide or get a garage involved .

For the starter cable then remove the throttle body / plenium chamber at the front .. you then have access to the starter .


Cheers Dermot :thumb: will be checking this out!
 
deMort said:
Steve997 said:
deMort said:
To save the search .. yup im bored :D

O/S/R.

Is that neat the coil heat shields and the back box tucked in the rear arch ?

Didnt understand this question .. coils are behind that heat sheild though .

Sorry my fat thumbs miss typed, but yes I meant is that the heat shields hat cover the coil packs. I was trying to get reference point of where under the car it was.
 
Some great suggestions of things to try guys. thanks.

I'll be checking the pin and the earth strap next.

Just going back a step. Is 13.95 volts from the alternator (measured at the battery) normal or a little low? Suggesting the alternator is under performing?
 

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