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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serpentine kit is on, flywheel is off. I used a VW flywheel lock modified to fit.
RMS perfect so it can stay put, just wasted an hour checking it.
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Porsche 944 S2 Coupe Guards Red
Porsche 993 Coupe 9m RS Replica
 



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tyinsky
Nürburgring


Joined: 29 Jun 2012
Posts: 497
Location: London, UK

1997 Porsche 993 Carrera 2S

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
Serpentine kit is on, flywheel is off. I used a VW flywheel lock modified to fit.
RMS perfect so it can stay put, just wasted an hour checking it.


That looks very smart. What does it do?
 
  
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Cameltoe & Heel
Suzuka


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 1202
Location: Preston - Lancs


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh that does look good mate
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tyinsky wrote:
Endoman wrote:
Serpentine kit is on, flywheel is off. I used a VW flywheel lock modified to fit.
RMS perfect so it can stay put, just wasted an hour checking it.


That looks very smart. What does it do?

It is a copy of the system fitted to racing RS's which had a habit of throwing the standard belt. Same ratio as the RS hub conversion but at about 10x the cost unfortunately. It's just bling for a road car. I am under no illusions, my crank pulley was damaged (my fault) so cost wise it was a no brainer. No slip, tension automatic.
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the bits back from powder coating, the engine tin and wing stays came out fine. Not so good with the aluminium suspension components. I asked for silver grey and they did them white, they look awful. It's so thick I can't get a bolt through the mounting points. I will try to clean out the bolt holes with chemical stripper first and overpaint the coating, failing that it will be back to the powder coaters. Wish I hadn't done it, a simple blast and spray with clear lacquer would have been better. You can't get the nasty but effective stripper easily. I'm so depressed. nooo
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Jack D
Monza


Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 204



PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If they’ve painted it the wrong colour then I’d ask them to strip it and re paint it.
Frustrating, I can imagine you want to push on and get things moving, but not the end of the world.

Jack D
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm surprised to find Nitromors is removing the excess coating quite easily and a rattle can of VHT aluminium is adhereing well, giving the wanted colour so I will press on. Welder coming this week to sort the chassis leg.
I've dunked a few rusty items in Evaporust, amazing results.
Should have taken a few before and after shots but it really works.
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Jack D
Monza


Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 204



PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you have the fan powder coated ?

Jack D
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fan is newish I did paint the shroud myself. POR15 self etching primer followed by POR detail cast iron.
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Cameltoe & Heel
Suzuka


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 1202
Location: Preston - Lancs


PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
Got the bits back from powder coating, the engine tin and wing stays came out fine. Not so good with the aluminium suspension components. I asked for silver grey and they did them white, they look awful. It's so thick I can't get a bolt through the mounting points. I will try to clean out the bolt holes with chemical stripper first and overpaint the coating, failing that it will be back to the powder coaters. Wish I hadn't done it, a simple blast and spray with clear lacquer would have been better. You can't get the nasty but effective stripper easily. I'm so depressed. nooo


Best, quickest and simplest way is give them a scrub up and then a quick spray with a tin of wheel silver, job done and they look factory fresh, that's all I did with mine anyways. UI only had a select few bits with powder coating, bumper stops and supports, that was about it.

Trev
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris the welder did his bit today. Great bloke, very tidy work and reasonable price. £280.
I even tried a bit of electroplating and it worked.
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Cameltoe & Heel
Suzuka


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 1202
Location: Preston - Lancs


PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lovely work, always feels good to remove the dreaded rot....

now time to get a rattle can of Guards red....just make sure you tape up those pesky studs...

Trev
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First coat of Electrolux on, wait 96hrs 2nd coat, then another 96hrs and I'll be using 2 pack epoxy. On the other side which is sound as I did it with POR15 8yrs ago I'll give it a touch up. Good tip about the threads Trev, thx.
The rot will really run down those chassis legs if they get a hole in them, he had to chase the seam quite clise to the suspension mount.
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Jet Jock
Montreal


Joined: 18 Jul 2005
Posts: 514
Location: Dublin


PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work Endoman Thumb .
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993 C2, RSR's, Cargraphic 100 Cell Cat, Turbo Twist Hollows, Brembo Big Reds Turbo Brakes, Big Ovals, Wayne Schofield Remap, KW Supersport set up by Chris Franklin, RS engine and transmission mounts, Fabspeed induction kit, HID conversion...
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gearbox reconnected. I had a slight moment when removing the bolt from the realease lever. I heard a clatter, the outer bearing had dropped to the bottom of the bellhousing. Luckily it was easy to retrieve with a magnetic probe. I'd have hated for it to happen with the engine in situ.
Following the chassis leg thread I have also got some bubbling in the l/h sill, it will have to wait until the car is back on the road though. This will be the third time that sill has needed work.
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mashby
Trainee


Joined: 12 Nov 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Coventry


PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good Endoman. Looks very similar to mine and also the L/H sill bubbling. thumbsup
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a long time searching I've found a varioram inlet manifold. The timing is just right as the engine is out but a few more bits will be needed for the conversion.
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Cameltoe & Heel
Suzuka


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 1202
Location: Preston - Lancs


PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
After a long time searching I've found a varioram inlet manifold. The timing is just right as the engine is out but a few more bits will be needed for the conversion.


Wow big move, I know this is reasonably popular in US but not something I've heard of over here, though having an RS rep like yours it entirely makes sense.

I'd seen that you used Galvo sheet steel for your chassis leg repair, just wondering why?, as most of the galvo would be removed for the welding?, at which point you'd need lots of protection at the welds and beyond.

Trev
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1186
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was Chris that chose to use Galvo hence the immediate post weld application of high zinc primer, a bit tricky on the inside of the box section.
He did paint the inside of the repair with red lead primer before welding.
I've been searching for a varioram inlet for ages so I jumped at this one. I found a 928 vac reservoir which looks identical to the 993 one, just need an airbox and ECU now. Following this thread :- https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/474509-diy-obd-1-varioram-conversion-step-by-step-more-or-less.html
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jev911uk
Newbie


Joined: 06 Mar 2011
Posts: 35
Location: Berkshire


PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
It was Chris that chose to use Galvo hence the immediate post weld application of high zinc primer, a bit tricky on the inside of the box section.
He did paint the inside of the repair with red lead primer before welding.
I've been searching for a varioram inlet for ages so I jumped at this one. I found a 928 vac reservoir which looks identical to the 993 one, just need an airbox and ECU now. Following this thread :- https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/474509-diy-obd-1-varioram-conversion-step-by-step-more-or-less.html


If you haven't already bought the 928 egg box you can just use the small 964 vac canister for the Vram instead. I've had this setup with a 993 Vram in a 964 for quite a few years now and always has enough vac to drive the actuators.



Did you get the inlet from a C2 or C4 car?

Good luck with the swap.
 
  
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