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Help getting the rear control arm bolt out please

G

Grey996

Nurburgring
Joined
24 Jan 2017
Messages
394
It's the adjustable geometry bolt that must be corroded into the bush sleeve. With a breaker bar and lots of force I can turn it halve a turn then back again but it's not yielding. The impact driver hasn't made any in roads either. I'd just cut it off but I can't a disc for in anywhere and I don't think I could get any heat to the parts I need to?

Any ideas appreciated.

Thanks

Simon
 

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I just did this last weekend. As I had to return the used arm to Hartech, I couldn't damage it at all.

On the front end, I used a hack saw blade in one of those handle things. No idea what it was called. Use a new blade. I was careful to cut through the bush and bolt about 2mm in from the edge. It meant cutting through the rubber a bit and I did it slowly to ensure the cut was straight. It took 40 min to cut through as it is 26mm thick and I had 20mm of movement back and forth. I contemplated my entire life while doing it...

On the rear side I started the cut with the hack saw to get the cut in the right poistion and then I broke out my electric reciprocating saw and cut through it in 5 min. I didn't use much pressure - I let the blade do the work. Too much pressure can break the blade and then you can damage the frame as the stubb bangs off everything.

Take your time and take solace from the fact you are not alone! Best of luck
 
My track rod
 

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Thanks for the reply, I had thought about the hacksaw blade but was hoping they'd be a quicker way, oh well I might as well enjoy the me time 😆

Sadly I don't own a reciprocating saw but maybe this is a good excuse to buy one!
 
My Indy had to cut both mine off when I had them replaced a couple of years back. It's a bitch of a job.

Good luck!
 
Get the best blade available, several of them, in a hacksaw holder thingy.
It took me 20 mins constant sawing each side of the bolt, when you are nearly through save a few mins of grind by turning the bolt and it will shear.

Be very careful not to cut through the mounting!!
Allow 1 hour per side constant work for replacement once you have it on jacks and wheels off.

Don't forget that you'll need a geo afterwards.
 
Thanks all, a friend has a reciprocating saw which I'm going to borrow.
 
It is a pig of a job, I have done it twice and neither time was fun. Plenty of anti-seize on the new bolts when they go in.

MC
 
Centre Gravity did mine earlier this year and they came out fine (lucky me), they put them back with lots of aluminium grease which they used liberally on any parts that might stick in future.
 
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