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996 stiff gear change

Nicoc4s

Trainee
Joined
23 Feb 2018
Messages
64
Question guys, lately i feel my gear shift feels abit harsh. Clutch is all good, no play in the shifter.
What i did notice is a slight sqeeking noise when i depress the clutch. Is it time for new spring and cables?
 
This is a common issue, and I have made mine like new again by replacing:

Engine mounts (I went semi-solid) £100+
New shifter (997 one, as it is 10% shorter throw) £50
Gearbox mounts £50
Gearbox oil
Clutch helper spring £60

This was all after I had the clutch and flywheel replaced. Each one made small incremental improvements to the shift, but it is and will always be a little notchy when cold. However, it is a drastic improvement over how it was and after a few mins it is perfect.

The squeaking noise will likely be the clutch fork, I have had the same but the garage said it was not an issue. You won,t hear it when the engine is running and you shouldn't feel it.
 
I need to change the bushings on my clutch pedal, it's the only thing the garage could find to suggest fixing last time I took the car in for a service.

It makes a squeeky noise when the clutch is operated.

Stiffness I can't help you with.
 
PHS said:
The squeaking noise will likely be the clutch fork, I have had the same but the garage said it was not an issue. You won,t hear it when the engine is running and you shouldn't feel it.

There is updated parts for this, worth doing when you have the gearbox off.

You use the 997 series fork, retainer and pivot pin. No more squeeks.

Also check the end of your slave cylinder rod - the plastic cap wears out leaving metal on metal contact to the release arm. Eventually it will wear through it...

Check my thread linked below for details.
 
Is it possible to buy just the rod for the slave cylinder or do we have to buy a whole slave cylinder?

Just refreshing my clutch and like you say wasz, the end of my slave cylinder rod has worn through to metal on metal and is really ground down
 
No I tried everywhere.

You can get a Sachs slave (the oe Mfr) for about £40 if you are lucky with carparts4less codes.

Then either swap just the rod or you may as well swap the lot if the coilled pipe will unscrew......

If your rod end plastic is gone the metal on metal will likely have damaged the release arm too. You can't buy the old part so are forced to buy the upgrade parts, the new pivot pin is waaaay overpriced.
 
"New shifter (997 one, as it is 10% shorter throw) £50 "

Can someone tell me what part number to order for the 997 shifter?
 
I bought a 2nd hand 997 shift and then got Alex to modify it with bronze bearings - fantastic. Never tried it with the standard bearings though.

The box is a bit slow into 2nd when cold despite new Motol oil.
 
maldren said:
I bought a 2nd hand 997 shift and then got Alex to modify it with bronze bearings - fantastic. Never tried it with the standard bearings though.

The box is a bit slow into 2nd when cold despite new Motol oil.

Have you tried Redline gearbox oil? My 993C4 was really obstructive when changing 1st to second when it was cold. Changing to Redline made a world of difference.
 
No, interesting, Opies recommended Motol, I may change the oil again next summer.
 
I had a manual CLK that was the same. Changed to the redline stuff and also dropped the level 10% as advised by Mercedes. The reduction in oil made the biggest difference when cold. The 2nd gear stiff change disappeared.
 
cvega said:
"New shifter (997 one, as it is 10% shorter throw) £50 "

Can someone tell me what part number to order for the 997 shifter?

997.424.983.00
£237.61in 2016 for the part only.
Copy parts available on eBay for considerably less

Bob
 

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