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It''s always the last bolt - need advice (drop links)

Paul_S

Paul_S

Monza
Joined
3 Mar 2018
Messages
235
Evening,

Had a relatively stress-free front-end Suspension replacement this weekend, until I get to the final thing, the passenger side drop link.

The top nut won't come off and just spins. I didn't have any issue getting a 17mm spanner on the driver side, but for some reason (I assume different design of the strut) I couldn't get the spanner on. I've tried everything including trying to wedge a screwdriver in there to hold the nut in place and also mole grips but can't get enough of a grip. I've butchered the ball joint.

Is there a spanner that will get in there? I guess something with thin 'walls" , or is there a technique I'm missing?

I don't have a grinder, and space is tight. I could drive to my Indy and ask him to do it while car is getting alignment work done, but I don't like to be beaten.

Yours, frustrated of Essex.
 
Can you not hacksaw a screwdriver slot in the end of the stud?
 
^^ Yes that if you need to reuse the drop link. Otherwise angle grind or Dremel the nut straight off.

Just spent today stripping suspension off mine. Anything that didn't budge got cut off. Thankfully not that much but still, it's not worth wasting time on some items. I'm fitting all new parts though so don't need to salvage anything.
 
Yes I could do I suppose, I'm not keeping the drop links as i have shiny TRW waiting to go on, but happy to do a less messy job - I'll need to go and get a hacksaw and I hadnt though of that idea. It'll still be tough though, there's not a lot of room but worth a go.

The car is up on jack stands until next weekend as I'm out of time now, keep the suggestions coming and thanks so far.

Anyone know why the left and right strut are different? Or is it just my technique.
 
I tend to keep all my old spanners for jobs like this and then just grind them down to be thinner or slightly different shaped for certain jobs. I've had to do it twice for specific Porsche related jobs.
 
Treat yourself to a grinder, they're cheap enough and very useful. Buy safety glasses/mask and ear defenders too and justify it by the savings you're making elsewhere.
 
All sorted with a dremel, ground/cut off the nut and job done inside 20 mins.

Sadly all of the front suspension work didn't solve my steering wheel wobble under braking, although it is a bit better, so I'm getting the car aligned next week and they'll investigate other causes.

I'm guessing either brake discs or top mounts, but both were replaced in 2015. Anyway thanks for the advice, new dremel now in the toolbox for future jobs.
 
I had a shudder on my Boxster that came about when I was bedding in new pads. Generally appeared at 70 mph but also under braking. Had the wheels balanced. No change. Was convinced it was brakes. The I had the wheels balanced using the Hunter road force system that I read about on here - problem solved.

Get the wheels properly balanced and see where you get to. Could be a hard spot on the tyre.

Also check that your front prop shaft bolts are tight.
 
And have you checked your tie-rods? I have just cured a long-standing mysterious wheel wobble by replacing them. The ball joint on the driver's side was shot despite the rubber boot looking good.

Jack up the front, grab the front wheel at quarter to three, see if you can feel any play.
 
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