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asterix_the_gaul
Suzuka


Joined: 20 Dec 2008
Posts: 1100
Location: Cheshire

1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cdr22 does not have RCA outputs, but all the outputs are there on the mini iso plugs at the back if you want to run an amp, also switched live, aux in and all those handy things
_________________
1992 944 S2 Cabriolet, Cobalt Blue/Classic grey -gone!
1995 993 C2 Cabriolet, Midnight Blue/Marble grey -gone!
1999 996 C2 Coupe, Ocean Blue/Graphite grey
2002 E46 M3 Cabriolet, Laguna seca blue/LSB
 
  
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Marky911
Kyalami


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 1842



PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Asterix, that sounds promising.
Have you done this? If so is there a specific loom/adaptor I can buy?
I've done a bit of digging online but nothing comes up.

If I can get a feed to an all in one amplified slimline sub, I'm guessing I can then just swap my 4x 4" speakers retaining the original wiring? Or is that common earth thing gonna be a pain? Halycon have you redone all yours using a Porsche headunit?

Mine actually lost a pixel over winter last year so debating whether to keep it in there at all? I do like the factory look though.

One more thing, can I just add a resistor to my 4" speakers to filter the bass out once I have a sub? I used to do that in the past I think. It's been 15-20 years since I was really into car audio.

Anyway cheers. Thumb

PS If anyone has a cdr22 faceplate with fully working screen I'd be interested. Alternatively if anyone is getting rid of a Becker or Continental with corrrect orange display and amplifier ready connections let me know. Thanks.

Again apologies for the hijack OP but I'm sure it's relevant.
 
  
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maldren
Österreich


Joined: 07 Oct 2016
Posts: 923



PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Marky,
It's usual l to use a mix of capacitors and inductors to filter out low/high frequencies as used in crossover units within loudspeakers. A resistor would simply reduce the volume. You would also need a high power resistor (or inductors/capacitors) as loudspeakers run at low voltage, high current.

Mike
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Mike
2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
 
  
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Marky911
Kyalami


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 1842



PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mike,
I must be thinking of a capacitor then.
I remember adding subs and fitting something inline on the full range speakers to limit the bass they had to deal with. Was 20 years ago though. Confused

In other news I've just bought a good used face plate for my cdr22, with all pixels working. Fingers crossed it's as mint as mine cosmetically.

Next stage will be 4 new speakers and see if that will suffice. If not I'll have to fit a sub. I hope I don't though, as it's more weight and I can't be ar$ed. Grin
 
  
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maldren
Österreich


Joined: 07 Oct 2016
Posts: 923



PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, I don't really see the point of a sub in a car. It's fine for kids with their thump thump sound but a car isn't really a large enough space to get decent bass and a 4" speaker can probably give all you really need. Try it first....
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2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
 
  
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asterix_the_gaul
Suzuka


Joined: 20 Dec 2008
Posts: 1100
Location: Cheshire

1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pins are not exactly the same as the diagram I think, I had to do a bit of detective work with a multi meter, the plug adaptor off eBay you chop off the big red one to leave a set of wires to tap, the multi colored plug splits into three and those are your mini iso; the long block at the bottom divided with the dots on the diagram. you may have one of the blocks already in use for your CD changer if you have one or the loom may have it or others on. The mini iso plugs clip together to make the one multicolor plug which fits in the back of the cdr22. I think it's the block on the bottom right of the diagram you want to tap, that's got the 4 line level outputs and a switch on signal for your amp.
_________________
1992 944 S2 Cabriolet, Cobalt Blue/Classic grey -gone!
1995 993 C2 Cabriolet, Midnight Blue/Marble grey -gone!
1999 996 C2 Coupe, Ocean Blue/Graphite grey
2002 E46 M3 Cabriolet, Laguna seca blue/LSB
 



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Halcyon
Hockenheim


Joined: 02 Nov 2015
Posts: 744
Location: Somerset


PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They aren't line level, they are amplified speaker level, and as you can see, it has a common ground Sad

It's a bit of a faff to upgrade, but not impossible with some time and patience.
I replaced everything in mine because the factory 6ch harmon kardon amp gave up the ghost.
So
replacement head unit
RCA phono leads from the H/U to the new amp (OEM frunk location)
8-wire speaker loom from the H/U to the amp location (to pick up the original speaker wiring)
new 4" Alpines (Dash & rear) driven by the H/U via new loom
Door speakers driven by new amp via RCAs (set to L/F output)
Focal slimline sub connected to the S/W RCA output of the H/U

Oh, i don't think the interference is caused the 5 wire setup (Whoever mentioned that!) Thumb
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asterix_the_gaul
Suzuka


Joined: 20 Dec 2008
Posts: 1100
Location: Cheshire

1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simply not true. The main iso plug B carries the amplified signal, the mini iso the line levels, yes it has a common ground.

Edit: also found a pre wired mini iso plug on eBay so save faffing around wiring up RCA sockets, if the pin assignments are different they are relatively easy to swop round
_________________
1992 944 S2 Cabriolet, Cobalt Blue/Classic grey -gone!
1995 993 C2 Cabriolet, Midnight Blue/Marble grey -gone!
1999 996 C2 Coupe, Ocean Blue/Graphite grey
2002 E46 M3 Cabriolet, Laguna seca blue/LSB

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Marky911
Kyalami


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 1842



PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks both. Good info.

I'm going to fit 4 new speakers using existing wiring/setup and try and live with it.
Failing that I'll add a slimline amplified sub, the easiest way possible, which I'll have to figure out at the time.

I like good hifi, but I'm more bothered in my daily as that's what I do most of my mileage in and it's generally boring mileage. Ironically my ancient Volvo has a cracking sound system as standard. It must have been even more impressive 20 years ago.
My wife's old Lexus had great stuff too.

911s just seem to suck for some reason. Anyway, as long as I can hear my music on my road trip that'll do. I will add a slimline sub if possible as 4" speakers simply cannot produce decent bass.
I'll fit my 4" speakers though and report back.


Mike, I agree regards Max Power style systems but you can get a great sound with a properly setup set of mids, tweeters and a sub. It has to be balanced though or the bass is overpowering, like you say. Thumb


Asterix I completely missed your last post. That's great. I'll keep that in my watch list and buy one if I go down that route. Thanks very much. Thumb
 
  
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Dammit
Kyalami


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 1837



PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stereo strikes me as a good winter project, and i've been somewhat spoiled by the system in my C55 which (to me) seems very good - and the sub in the boot works very well to give a range that the 996 simply can't replicate.

The cab apparently could be ordered with a sub that fits into the passenger footwell: 996 645 567 00

Which looks like this:



If I can find one in blue (or, at a push, black) that's pleasingly invisible.

What are the odds on being able to plug that into the setup I already have - which is the pre-MOST Nokia system?
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Dammit
Kyalami


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 1837



PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eabeukes wrote:
I am in the process of swapping out all 4 upper speakers from the old Nokia ones to Hertz DCX 100.3's. O chose these as they give a much broader frequency response compared to the Alpines and others. Theyre also made by the same people who make Audison (and are pretty much the same thing Very Happy ) but for less money.


Do these fit into the JMG adapters?
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Dammit
Kyalami


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 1837



PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

asterix_the_gaul wrote:
Simply not true. The main iso plug B carries the amplified signal, the mini iso the line levels, yes it has a common ground.

Edit: also found a pre wired mini iso plug on eBay so save faffing around wiring up RCA sockets, if the pin assignments are different they are relatively easy to swop round


Looking at the wiring diagram for my Becker I have a sub line out (pin 6) on the C1 connector:



Could this line be run directly to the amp for the Bose sub, along with power etc?
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Dammit
Kyalami


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 1837



PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought one of the Bose subs that go in the footwell, now I need to understand how to wire it - and my knowledge of things electronic is frankly dreadful.

How does this look, to go to the sub's amp, from the back of my Becker?

Socket C1, pin 6, rear sub +
Socket C1, pin 3, line out ground
Socket A, pin 17, switched live
Socket A, pin 8, ground
Socket A, pin 4, permanent live
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asterix_the_gaul
Suzuka


Joined: 20 Dec 2008
Posts: 1100
Location: Cheshire

1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That should work OK, but you may be better using the remote on control out of socket A rather than the switched live, it's only a minor point, but means the sub would turn on when the head unit was on rather than all the time the car was running.

Big amps to drive subs generally get a feed direct off the battery with some decent gauge wire, how nessisary this is I can't say, I imagine a little one to drive a footwell sub won't need industrial power feeds and the run is pretty short as is
_________________
1992 944 S2 Cabriolet, Cobalt Blue/Classic grey -gone!
1995 993 C2 Cabriolet, Midnight Blue/Marble grey -gone!
1999 996 C2 Coupe, Ocean Blue/Graphite grey
2002 E46 M3 Cabriolet, Laguna seca blue/LSB
 
  
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Dammit
Kyalami


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 1837



PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Socket A pin 5 for the remote on?

And therefore:

Socket C1, pin 6, rear sub +
Socket C1, pin 3, line out ground
Socket A, pin 5, remote on
Socket A, pin 8, ground
Socket A, pin 4, permanent live

(If I'm incredibly lucky there's some loom in there for the sub already, but I suspect I'm not going to be incredibly lucky!)
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maldren
Österreich


Joined: 07 Oct 2016
Posts: 923



PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dammit wrote:
(If I'm incredibly lucky there's some loom in there for the sub already, but I suspect I'm not going to be incredibly lucky!)


Don't know Neil but Porsche are odd with their wiring, I still can't understand why the wiring for things like cruise are only present when the option is fitted as standard and wiring has to be updated when it is retro-fitted. Must make their harness options complicated.
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Mike
2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
 
  
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Dammit
Kyalami


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 1837



PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only one way to find out! Should not be too hard to DIY, hopefully, and an educational project for me. Trick is to do it without cutting any factory wires, so I suspect I'll be getting friendly with car audio connector catalogues.

Can anyone recommend a decent set of tools for pinning/de-pinning, and a decent soldering iron for a ham-fisted beginner?
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maldren
Österreich


Joined: 07 Oct 2016
Posts: 923



PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do need a decent power iron for heavier car wiring, my neat little electronics iron really doesn't cut it so I bought a cheap, large iron from Machine Mart for the replacement resistors on the radiators.

There are good arguments for crimping rather than soldering pins. Soldering makes the joint brittle and the cable cores can fail. Crimping is less good where corrosion can be a problem. Having said that, I soldered the new pins for my cruise control.
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2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
 
  
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911munKy
Nürburgring


Joined: 26 Nov 2014
Posts: 460



PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I gave my standard Becker unit a boost by adding the following components, I wouldn't say it's now awesome but for a relatively small outlaw it does sound much better, looks standard and is way louder with decent bass:

Alpine SPG-10C2 speakers x4 £80
Alpine KTP-445U Power pack mini amp 4x 45w RMS £130
Kenwood KSC-SW11 150w Subwoofer £95
Becker 4 channel pre-amp and sub output lead CT29BK01 £9
Ebay mini-phono lead to connect phone £5
3m Phono leads £6

Mounted the amp under the passenger side dash and fixed the subwoofer on the rear shelf both with double sided carpet tape. I set the amp to 50% gain and routed as much bass as possible to the subwoofer to give the other speakers an easy time.
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GMG
Silverstone


Joined: 07 Jan 2018
Posts: 138
Location: Devon


PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...I have the Bose system in my 996.2 and it's either pretty awful or these cars are just so damn noisy that any system in them is a waste of time?

I have Naim at home so meet my audio needs this way not in the Porsche!
 
  
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