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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 115
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 10:37 pm    Post subject: Immobiliser socket Reply with quote

One of the contact springs in my immobilizer socket is looking a bit flat so thinking of changing it as a precaution. Before i ring h and p to order one, can anyone give any idea of how easy this is to change ? Mine is located right up under the clock and appears to go through the bulk head into that awkward to reach place under the windscreen where the radio booster is. Looks a nightmare to reach from the back and i don't like to start to pull on it from the front because it looks like it's got a threaded socket.

Anyone swapped one ?
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gunner
Montreal


Joined: 04 Jul 2014
Posts: 613
Location: Kent


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine isn't used anymore (immobilser is remote) but not sure how easy to remove?
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 115
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gunner wrote:
Mine isn't used anymore (immobilser is remote) but not sure how easy to remove?


Got the answer of all places from the pcgb forum .... seems the socket pulls out from the front and a new one can be soldered in. Spoke to h and a to confirm and have ordered a socket (they call it a receptical) and a new immobiliser fob for around fifty quid each.
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 132
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Immobiliser socket Reply with quote

wilsonny wrote:
One of the contact springs in my immobiliser socket is looking a bit flat so thinking of changing it as a precaution.


Coincidentally whilst using my car today I had issues getting the engine to crank over. (This is the first time)

By repeated wriggling of the immobiliser it would start which suggested an issue with the immobiliser contacts.

The following picture shows that all but one of mine appear a bit flat.



I managed to prise the immobiliser socket out which leaves about 50 mm of wiring which appears to have heat shrink on it.
Presumably once the heat shrink is removed you can access the previously solder joints and replace the socket.

Looks like a call to H & P first thing tomorrow.

Has anyone any relevant advice?
 
  
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 115
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Immobiliser socket Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:
wilsonny wrote:
One of the contact springs in my immobiliser socket is looking a bit flat so thinking of changing it as a precaution.


Coincidentally whilst using my car today I had issues getting the engine to crank over. (This is the first time)

By repeated wriggling of the immobiliser it would start which suggested an issue with the immobiliser contacts.

The following picture shows that all but one of mine appear a bit flat.



I managed to prise the immobiliser socket out which leaves about 50 mm of wiring which appears to have heat shrink on it.
Presumably once the heat shrink is removed you can access the previously solder joints and replace the socket.

Looks like a call to H & P first thing tomorrow.

Has anyone any relevant advice?


I've not fitted mine yet but this is what is supplied from HandA for the receptacle and also the new immobiliser fob which i was surprised to see has the original looking sticker. Lady on the phone described the replacement process as essentially pulling out the socket, cutting wires and soldering in the new socket taking care to match wire colours.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PPOY6gXkR9lyFbXq1
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 132
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of your pics shows the black heat shrink adjacent to the socket - this is what I was expecting to cut and shut.



However I will investigate where the wire goes to see if it might be easier to solder the far end of the new wire.

I'll get back to you.
 
  
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 115
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:


However I will investigate where the wire goes to see if it might be easier to solder the far end of the new wire.

I'll get back to you.


I have not yet fully traced the lead but my receptacle is in the same place as yours by the look and my current thought is that it runs behind the dials, descends in front of the fresh air flap behind the dash, joins the wiring loom and goes back to the ignition. This is just from my provisional looking around but it had convinced me so far that it was only practical to replace the receptical end and resolder.

Be interested to know if you find anything more concrete.
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 132
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spoke to the lady at H&P and she is sending a new part out today.

I have also striped back the shrink wrap on the existing "receiver" to reveal six wires of which only four are connected to the receiver. (The short white "wire" is just a filler with no copper in it)

The black and red which according to H&P go to the light, do not appear to have been connected to the receiver or each other.

I would welcome any advise as to what to do with these wires.





I am going to cut and replace at this end as advised by H&P - will post some photos as I go.

I also understand that the male part has a unique code that needs to be programmed into any replacement.

Some OPCs have a suitable reader or you can send the original one back to H&P who will read it and program the new one.

There is also an outside chance that the code is on the outside of the immobiliser under the seat.

I do not know if it is related but for the last couple of years the audible sound that occurred when you paired the two items stopped working. I will soon find out.

I hope the postman comes early tomorrow as this car is currently my daily driver and I need to get some wine for the weekend.
 
  
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 115
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:
I spoke to the lady at H&P and she is sending a new part out today.

I also understand that the male part has a unique code that needs to be programmed into any replacement.

Some OPCs have a suitable reader or you can send the original one back to H&P who will read it and program the new one.

I hope the postman comes early tomorrow as this car is currently my daily driver and I need to get some wine for the weekend.


My immobiliser code was on a security card in with the car paperwork... it is a 5 digit number. Took about 3 days for my parts to come from h and a.

Thanks for posting the pics. Gives me a bit more confidence to pull a bit harder on the socket which seems reluctant to budge.
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 132
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:

The black and red which according to H&P go to the light, do not appear to have been connected to the receiver or each other.

I would welcome any advice as to what to do with these wires.



To answer my own question - I will test the continuity of the new loom and receiver when it arrives.
 
  
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