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Potential mis-fire after changing water pump - HeLp!

A

aerokit

Trainee
Joined
4 Mar 2017
Messages
57
I've just DIY fitted a new water pump to my 996 C2 (after the last one failed), turned the car on and took it for a spin and it has quite a lumpy idle with a significant vibration and a bit of a bark to the exhaust note.

Now, I know my engine mounts were due but my Check Engine Light came on which suggested the issue is more than related to the mounts.

I plugged my cheap eBay OBD code reader into the port and it came back with a P0101 code - Cylinder 1 misfire.

Any ideas??

Thanks in advance
 
Did the coil packs get wet when changing the pump?

MC
 
MisterCorn said:
Did the coil packs get wet when changing the pump?

MC
Click to expand...

As MC above. cylinder 1 is nearest the pump and coolant could have spilled on to coil pack? Did you tuck the hose out of the way on that side while you were removing the old one possibly?
 

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FRZ 911 said:
MisterCorn said:
Did the coil packs get wet when changing the pump?

MC
Click to expand...

As MC above. cylinder 1 is nearest the pump and coolant could have spilled on to coil pack? Did you tuck the hose out of the way on that side while you were removing the old one possibly?
Click to expand...

Quite likely chaps. There was some "spray" from the old pump before discovering it was leaking and like you say, it's quite probable that some may have leaked during the installation of the new one. In that case, what are my remedial options/requirements?

(I did have a poke around coil pack one (access is limited) and it seems to be quite a beefy plug assembly - surprised any fluid could get in around that. Although I wasn't able to get a proper look in)
 
FRZ 911 said:
MisterCorn said:
Did the coil packs get wet when changing the pump?

MC
Click to expand...

As MC above. cylinder 1 is nearest the pump and coolant could have spilled on to coil pack? Did you tuck the hose out of the way on that side while you were removing the old one possibly?
Click to expand...

In the attached diagram, what are those arrows and labels pointing to please?
 
It was just a diagram I found that showed the various hoses. The one I was thinking of was the hose actually attached to the pump with would be removed at some point? Apologies- I should have explained what I was posting better.
 
FRZ 911 said:
It was just a diagram I found that showed the various hoses. The one I was thinking of was the hose actually attached to the pump with would be removed at some point? Apologies- I should have explained what I was posting better.
Click to expand...

I see - thank you. Yes it was removed and left to it's own free will (with a collector tub on the ground beneath of course). i never thought to consider the exit route of the fluid, although from memory it seemed to be fairly unhindered...could be wrong
:?: :sad:

Do I need to replace coil pack 1?
 
I would take it out and take a look. If it is cracked I would pull the rest to check those, then either replace all or replace those with cracks.
They are a piece of cake to remove on the 996 C2.

MC
 
MisterCorn said:
I would take it out and take a look. If it is cracked I would pull the rest to check those, then either replace all or replace those with cracks.
They are a piece of cake to remove on the 996 C2.

MC
Click to expand...

Thanks. There didn't seem to be huge amounts of access in the region of coil pack 1 (and others) unless I am missing a trick? Is there something substantial that needs to be removed beforehand? The book says the rear wheels as a start..
 
I think it was just rear wheel and the metal cover. If yours are scruffy they are super cheap to replace from OPC. One is a bit fiddlier than the other two, but not hard.

MC
 
Just jacked the car up and had the NSR wheel off. The plate seems to be missing on my car as I can see the coil packs straight away.

Am I right in understanding the one I need to focus on is the one you can't see and is closest to the rear bumper (furthers towards the back of the car)?

And is it literally a case of trying to fit your hand and a spanner in that tiny gap to remove it or am I missing something? I take it everything is done from beneath?

Thanks again in advance
 
Yes all done from underneath. 2 small bolts and unclip the electrical connector. You can see where the relevant parts are on the ones which are easier to get at.

MC
 
When you filled the coolant bottle then some spilt and was drained away , unfortunatly the drain tube runs right onto No.1 coil which if cracked will cause a misfire untill it drys out.

A cracked coil in itself is normally ok .. just not when the car gets wet as thats when it will break down.

When you change the coil then you should see a rubber pipe near it .. pull out the heat sheild a bit and tuck it behind to stop any further problems.

On a ramp then the coils are fairly easy but on the floor you will struggle a bit so most of it is done by touch.

Slide the rubber boot up off the plug connection before removeing the connector as this will make refitting easier , you cant see if the conector has locked in with the boot in place.

To give you an idear of labour costs then most garages charge about 0.8 to 1 hour to replace plugs so thats all 6 if you prefer to go down that route.
 
Right, Update time!!

First of all - thank you all for your time in helping me along the way. I couldn't have attempted this without the insight and knowledge you all provided (and Dad's help!!).

Cylinder 1 was showing on the reader to be at fault. Got the coil and spark plug out (eventually) as described above. Changed the spark plug as a precaution and swapped coil 1 and 3. Misfire remained and the fault code shifted to cylinder 3 - dodgy coil identified and verified! :D

Picked up a coil from the only place that had it in stock for C&C today - ECP. Fitted and tested. So far so good....

Does anyone know where i can buy the cover plates which appear to be missing on mine?

Cheers
 
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