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A little Front Suspension Work - Advice

T

TonySJ-996TT

Spa-Francorchamps
Joined
24 Apr 2015
Messages
336
Afternoon Gents,

During a recent service, the following was highlighted;

Both Front Strut Tops Split and Noisey.
Both Front Bump Stops require Replacement.
Front Lower Arms Bushes Creaking.

I was just wondering, if any of the above work is 'specialist' or requires any special tools? or if any of it is particularly difficult/tricky areas?

To give you an idea of my mechanical (in)competence, I generally service my own cars and carry out maintenance (brakes/suspension/exhaust replacement), but with the 996 (mainly for the stamp in the service book and future proofing values) I tend to get service and work done OPC/Specialist.

The above list however seems as though it's something I could tackle on a Saturday morning and save £££ in the process?

Does anybody have any links to step by step tutorials / videos which would help me decide if it's something I want to take on?

Cheers,

Tony.
 
I don't have a DIY to share, but having done this stuff myself I can tell you it's all very standard car stuff and not difficult beyond freeing off seized fasteners. It doesn't require any specialised tools, assuming that a tuning fork for the ball joints and spring compressors aren't regarded as specialist.

It's a good idea to change as much as ayou can afford to while you're at it. There are many sources of cheap parts, and some regard them as perfectly acceptable whilst others say to use Porsche parts only.

Once you've done it, make sure your rear suspension lower arms are not seized from an adjustment point of view, then take the car for a four wheel alignment. You don't need a Porsche specialist to do this, anyone with a ramp and a laser alignment machine can set it to the standard Porsche settings. If you want something a bit less understeery then ask on here for settings and you'll get given a bunch of setups to choose from.

I use:
Front: 1-2mm toe in, -1 degree camber, caster isn't adjustable.
Rear: 0-1mm toe in, -0.5 degree camber.
This makes it more pointy and less understeery than standard, but you may not like it and find it darty. It also gets the full life out of a set of tyres rather than wearing the inside edge down to the canvas while the outside edge is still new. If you prefer it more stable then add more toe in at both ends.

Beware of anyone that says that you need loads and loads of negative camber (more than -2 degrees). It's pointless on a road car on road tyres, you can't generate enough grip from the tyre for the camber to work for you and improve the contact patch. Also, the more camber you run, the less your contact patch is and the lower your straight line braking performance is.
 
Many Thanks All,
All comments duly noted ! :)
 
Good advice above, it's not hard, get the 101 projects book or check out the online guides and take your time. It's not something that you will do in a Sat morning though, allow a weekend and prepare for some challenges regarding seized fixings.

Go for it, it's all within the capabilities of DIY home mechanics and you'll save yourself a fortune. As said above change all you can that is worn and then take it to a local place for a geo, ensure all adjustment bolts turn otherwise you'll be paying someone to sort it for you.

A heat gun or plumbers torch are essential on old rusty fixings along with decent 6 sided impact sockets and a breaker bar. I removed the struts so it was easy to give to a garage when the bastard drop links couldn't be removed. Sometimes you've got to get a little help.

Good luck and report back.
 
+1 101 projects book that 911munKy mentioned it's very helpful :thumb:
Jobs like these are really worth doing DIY to save on labour. A car is a car at the end of the day..
Servicing yes most folks will like the stamp in the book, but for other things just keep the receipts to go with the history
:)
 
+2 on the 101 projects book.

Saves a fortune (plus you get to buy nice tools!) and you learn a lot about your car.
 
My advice is to change the lot if you are at the age or mileage the top mounts are shot.

Topmounts and bearings
Coffin arms
Forked arms
Inner and outer track rod ends
Roll bar links

Consider doing shocks too

Then you won't spend all weekend on it only for 2 weeks later another knock appears.

Buycarparts.co.uk has arms and Sachs brand top mounts for you
 
Thanks again, more good advice regarding changing other stuff whilst im 'in there'.

Can anybody confirm the full title of the book mentioned? along with publisher?...intend to order it this afternoon.

Cheers,
 
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