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crash7
Monza


Joined: 28 May 2011
Posts: 182



PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A tip of the hat to you, transparent and informative, a good read! Thumb

I have recently gone through a similar exercise but am fortunate to have been able to carry out lots of the spanner work myself, which saved me a heap!

Keep up the good work!
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2017 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

I bought some Litronic headlights from a chap on the 996 Carrera Facebook group - quite heavy carrying them home on the tube.

They are, of course, clear lenses:



Which was the only choice if you wanted the more modern projector lamps rather than halogen:



But my car has amber lamps and indicators, so this needs to change.





At this point I discovered how much easier a hair-dryer made this process.



 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2017 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote







 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One question, I pushed the headlamp assemblies back into place and they seemed to latch in nicely, holding onto the edges and tugging them forward again didn't unseat them - I had to use the tool to get them out again.

Is this enough, or should I have to lock them back in place with the tool?

Instructions on the Internets are unclear.
 
  
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Demort
Paul Ricard


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 3241
Location: Sussex


PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use the tool .. if it doesnt turn and give an audiable click then i expect they have locked in ok .. but check with the tool to be safe . ..

Last thing you want is the headlights dissaperaing down the road when you brake sharply !


Btw .. Nice job Thumb
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7pm - 9pm
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

I turned to tool toward the back of the car to pop the lights out- turn it toward the front to lock them in?
 
  
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Demort
Paul Ricard


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 3241
Location: Sussex


PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The downside of working on all Porsches is i dont remember this sort of detail Embarassed

Its going to be pretty easy to see though as when you turn it one way the light will either not move or push out .. then its just the oposite to check its locked in place.

993 is forward to lock
Cayenne is forward to unlock

Hence i cant remember .. sorry .
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7pm - 9pm
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, toward the rear of the car to release, toward the front to lock - two loud bangs achieved, lights locked in place.

Thanks Demort.
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I predicted the light I wrapped first I shall have to re-do, there's a tiny section of the vinyl lifting. I shall attempt to persuade it back down with the hair-dryer first, but I ordered enough of the vinyl to take a second run at one of the lights so this isn't a huge problem. The orange colour is very slightly darker than the other lights, but I'm waiting to see what happens in terms of fade. All in all I'm happy with this as a non-permanent method of getting Amber Litronic lights.

I've ordered a couple of sun visors for the car to remove that annoying Ker-flap noise over bumps and will fit those next week - that leaves the report from Precision with only "rear ARB bushes may be slightly worn" as the only outstanding maintenance issue - and I'll get Centre Gravity to check and possibly change the bushes when the car goes to them later this year for Ohlins R/T all round, with the Ohlins version of the M030 springs replacing the springs the kit comes with.

The date for the door-striker work and general bodywork re-fresh, re-paint and re-hood is a little fluid right now due to the engine potentially being pushed up the schedule, we shall see - I do want to remove any potential for corrosion before we hit winter, but funds are, alas, far from infinite.
 
  
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3point6
Trainee


Joined: 02 Jul 2016
Posts: 96



PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ouch eh! That is a very big spend. I would have walked away at the £4000 inspection report stage. That was not a loved car. It is a loved car now. You see the difference now between a loved car and an unloved one. Your next 911 purchase you may look at differently.

I bought a 996TT very recently. The exact opposite from you sir. My car was the fifth or sixth that I looked at, not the first. It was at the other end of the country, not just across the road. I bought the best low mile car I could find for the money with full Porsche history and paid an extra premium for that.
My total post sale expenditure so far is under £800..and that was a service at OPC and a new gearknob and some spacers - nice things I wanted to do rather than things that were needed so it could be driven at all. The car has a clean bill of health from OPC and it is perfect in all respects. I can enjoy using it rather than worry how, where and when to fix it or who is going to paint it.

We could use this thread as an example of how NOT to buy a used 911.
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That thought does occur to me, but the question is what would a loved vehicle have cost?

i.e. I took what I found and made it (ARB bushes aside) perfect.

Lets leave out the elective stuff and say it was £20,000 for the car+maintenance.

How does that compare to buying a totally sorted car?

For e.g. you'd need to offer me at least £20k to get the keys to mine now (not that market values are there, I hasten to add).

My suspicion is that you should, if buying today, assume that you'll have a total outlay of 20k for a good car - that could be poor car +10k work, or a great car at 20k. If you bring in your first year under that then great - you've done well.

I suspect a lot of people buy a 996 for (say) 12k, then pay the first 2k bill with slightly gritted teeth, then when they get the quote for the next 3k they sell the car, which explains the 8 owner cars we see with oddly patchy maintenance.

From my perspective I've got a car that I know has been gone through from end to end, and that everything is spot on. If I'd paid 20k for a car that had flown though a PPI and then had my second big bill roll up at service time (none of those items were on the PPI) then I'd be quite cross.

I'm happy enough, I love the car and I'll now continue to fettle it until it's where I want it to be. There's no question that I'm significantly under-water on the costs if I decided to sell it, but I'm planning on keeping for the foreseeable so that type of cost/benefit analysis doesn't really apply.
 
  
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3point6
Trainee


Joined: 02 Jul 2016
Posts: 96



PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You said it.. you are happy enough and that is the only thing that matters when it comes to your car and what you do with your money. Having gone about it another way, I am happy with my purchase too..cannot ask for anything more than to be pleased with your hand.

However, being a different tyre of buyer/collector/user from you, I still gasp at the way it can go if one does not mind taking on a car that needs a bit of work.
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speaking of work, I'm not booked into Centre Gravity on the 18th of September.

Chris will be fitting Ohlins R/T, which will need to be modified as they come with springs suited to the coupe - and my car is much less torsionally stiff.

So, we're going to use the Porsche M030 spring rates for the 996.1 cab as our guide and go for 40 Nm front and 60 Nm rear - springs will be Ohlins as well, just to keep everything the same make (which will probably make no difference, but can't hurt).

If anyone wants a set of Ohlins springs do shout, otherwise I'll turn them into a wind-chime.
 
  
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g911omr
Silverstone


Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 104



PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We could use this thread as an example of how NOT to buy a used 911.[/quote]

I'm not sure that comment is really necessary is it?
If everyone bought the "Perfect car" then we'd have very little to talk about.
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doing a little Googling about spring rates, here are various GT3 rates:

FRONT:

996.1 GT3
PART NUMBER: 996 343 531 91
SPRING RATE: 35N/mm

996.2 GT3
PART NUMBER: 996 343 531 95
SPRING RATE: 40N/mm

996.2 GT3 RS
PART NUMBER: 996 343 531 97
SPRING RATE: 45N/mM

997.1 GT3
PART NUMBER: 996 343 531 95
SPRING RATE: 40N/mm

997.2 GT3
PART NUMBER: 997 343 531 94
SPRING RATE: 49N/mm



REAR:

996.1 GT3
PART NUMBER: 996 333 531 91
SPRING RATE: 65N/mm

996.2 GT3
PART NUMBER: 996 333 531 95
SPRING RATE: 95N/mm

996.2 GT3 RS
PART NUMBER: 996 333 531 95
SPRING RATE: 95N/mm

997.1 GT3
PART NUMBER: 997 333 531 93
SPRING RATE: 105N/mm

997.2 GT3
PART NUMBER: 997 333 531 95
SPRING RATE: 115N/mm

So pulling the 996.1 GT3 out of the above we have 35 Nm/front and 65 Nm/rear.

Be interesting to chat to Chris about his selection of 40/60 - I am aware that the Ohlins springs (that will not be used) for the coupe are much, much stiffer (memory says 80/120, but that might be unreliable) and their reputation is that they are less "crashy" than stock GT3 stuff.
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

 
  
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Y2K
Monza


Joined: 08 Mar 2016
Posts: 202
Location: Hampshire


PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dammit wrote:
.........
Be interesting to chat to Chris about his selection of 40/60 - I am aware that the Ohlins springs (that will not be used) for the coupe are much, much stiffer (memory says 80/120, but that might be unreliable) and their reputation is that they are less "crashy" than stock GT3 stuff.


Ohlins spring rates for 996 are 60/120 for C2 or 70/120 for C4 Thumb

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-991-products/996-997-991-suspension/996-997-991-shocks~springs/ohlins-r-t-coil-over-kit-ohlins-rt-kit-detail.htm
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2001 996 Carrera 2 3.4
1999 Integra DC2
 
  
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Dammit
Montreal


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 615



PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on spring rates (which I am aware is likely the most fascinating thing you will read today), they're going to be 40 front 90 rear, according to the invoice for said springs I just paid - so 20 lower at each end than the coupe due to the cab being somewhat bendier.

If anyone has a recommendation for where to stay near CG do shout - I'll likely drive up on the Sunday, stay that evening and the next.

Right- continuing to solve problems:

On rough roads I'd noticed an annoying noise, took me ages to track it down to the sun-visor, which has a flap that one opens to both reveal the vanity mirror and illuminate the lights to either side of it.

The springs in the flap have made a bid for freedom at some point in the past - successfully it would appear, so the flap flaps up and down over rough roads.



So today I swapped both visors for new - the left had one still had springs but they were very weak and I thought I may as well do both at the same time. New part excitement!



Part numbers if they are useful to anyone:



This turned out to be a ridiculously easy job, requiring a trim tool (thin) and a Torx T-25 driver.

If you want to do this yourself crack the roof open as the retaining pins on the leading edge of the roof locate into sockets on the sun-visor housings, this has the additional benefit of giving you plenty of room to work.

Remember- safety first, fixing second:



Pop this cover off:



A trim tool makes this easy:



Then take your T-25 driver and remove two bolts per visor, both underneath the tab you just removed:



Then simply pull the other end of the visor out of the clamp, the unit is now free of the car.

Out:



Installation is the reverse of removal.

All done:

 
  
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Mr Scruff
Trainee


Joined: 26 Feb 2015
Posts: 77



PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just read this over my morning coffee - wanteto say thank you for detailing all of it, makes a good (if somewhat painful) read. My own 996 hasn't swallowed quite the same funds yours has but it certainly knows how to generate bills on occasion.
 
  
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