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Has anyone changed their clutch on their driveway?

wasz

Paul Ricard
Joined
28 Dec 2012
Messages
3,107
My clutch feels pretty heavy and on/off so i think it needs replaced. It doesn't ver slip though, but I have no record of a change at 130k.

Looks like the going rate for a clutch change at indy is £650ish

That will be +RMS and IMSB cover for me and likely +flywheel (£400) as its never been changed at 130k.

Also best to change this lot whilst its out and do a proper job:
Throw-Out Bearing Guide Tube
Flywheel Seal
Clutch Release Lever to remove creaks

You can get a scissor lift type transmission jack for under £100 and a sachs clutch and luk flywheel for £532.



Has anyone got any cheerful success stories about changing the clutch on your drive, alone on your back?

I once swapped the gearbox on a Peugeot 306 alone, how hard can it be? Wish me luck....
 
Ive been there and done it , bitch of a job but do able , but still beter than paying for it be done as i know its done proprerly
 
Yes I have

it was a MK2 Escort in 1989

hope that helps :thumb:
 
BHZ661 said:
Ive been there and done it , bitch of a job but do able , but still beter than paying for it be done as i know its done proprerly

What kind of transmission jack did you use?

Yes I want to make sure its done right. I have however heard some horror stories of cracked casings and stripped threads which put me off a little.
 
Ive done many cars that way when i was young and keen but never a Porsche ..

It could be done but the box is pretty heavy so lifting it in and out wont be easy.

Youll also have to support the engine .

Ive used normal trolly jacks in the past but again the gearboxes where Lighter i expect.

C4 would be more tricky as you have to get the propshaft off and youll need a bit of height for that .

Something like this might be what you need ..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/?iid=35127...5&device=c&campaignid=805661516&crdt=0&chn=ps
 
Ive been thinking about this so some tips that might help .. you may or may not know this lot .. but im bored so listing it anyways :D

Youll need a flat smooth surface or you wont be able to move the jack with the gearbox on it under the car ..

The gear cables can be dificult on a ramp let alone the floor when the bracket is rusted .. you only need to get the top one out then you have access to the Torx bolt (2 of them ) and you can remove the bracket .

Sand it down well as refitting will be equally as hard .

Youll need a spline tool .. i think a 12 mm but im unsure .. i have a cut down one i use and then put a 10 mm spanner on it as theres no room for a socket .

You will need some pretty long extensions , i use a 2 foot and a single 1 foot with a ball end on an airgun .. you go over the top of the gearbox from the rear to get to the top bolts .. use half inch ones .. 3/8 will never give you enough turning power .

Dont forget the reverse light wiring.

Depending on where the power lead is connected then disconnecting the battery first is sensible .

Youll need a seperate jack under the engine to support it .. dont put it in the middle of the sump pan .. its not very strong .

Rear gearbox mounts .. undo the 15mm nuts then use a 7mm on the studs to remove them as well .. it will make life easier .

If your doing rear main work / ims work as well then lock the crank , loosen the tensioners before you remove the gearbox as with it out the engine will move around and make that harder .. i would lock a camshaft as well to be safe .

Dont forget to drain the engine oil :D
 
Yes done this, removed the entire engine and box using only a bock of wood to support on a trolley jack, getting the balance point right is the key.

If there's anything you need to know ask away :thumb:
 
wasz said:
BHZ661 said:
Ive been there and done it , bitch of a job but do able , but still beter than paying for it be done as i know its done proprerly

What kind of transmission jack did you use?

Yes I want to make sure its done right. I have however heard some horror stories of cracked casings and stripped threads which put me off a little.

Used a trolly jack , but if i need to ever do it again i would invest in transmission jack
 
Hi all thanks for the note demort.

I was thinking of getting one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Seale...543477?hash=item1c5df6dbb5:g:CSwAAOSwRgJXiM48

As it looks like it might support the long transmission better.

However I'm having second thoughts now about method.

It might even be easier to drop engine and gearbox as one, would make reassembly less faffy. Perhaps on an ATV jack.

And I would be able to do other preventative jobs like the AOS at the same time. However that could be done in situ, no other pressing need to drop the engine.

hmmm.
 
wasz said:
Hi all thanks for the note demort.

I was thinking of getting one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Seale...543477?hash=item1c5df6dbb5:g:CSwAAOSwRgJXiM48

As it looks like it might support the long transmission better.

However I'm having second thoughts now about method.

It might even be easier to drop engine and gearbox as one, would make reassembly less faffy. Perhaps on an ATV jack.

And I would be able to do other preventative jobs like the AOS at the same
time. However that could be done in situ, no other pressing need to drop the engine.

hmmm.

Changed the AOS in situ fiddly but do able :thumbs:
 
Hi All, my first post....

Check this chap out, take my hat of to him. It mainly deals with the IMS but from this you should be able to sort the Clutch side of things out. There are about 12 vid's, so do a search on Porsche IMS Fix and you will see about 12 (...Fix's....):

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIocrQqlYRWYPh7d9GmRbDQ/search?query=Porsche+IMS+fix

Quite clever how he did this and approach to it.

Myself, am taking delivery of a 997 from RSJ end of the month - cannot wait.

Anyway hope above helps fella.
 
I'm currently removing my gearbox to fit a new release bearing, grease the slave cylinder plunger and fit poly gearbox mount along with a few other jobs. I've done it several time before and I have a system to get it off now, the first time was trial and error but I can do it in a weekend on my garage floor. I'm on my third clutch at 111k miles :oops:

It is reasonably easy but it just takes time and a bit a fiddling about. Everything Demort says but I would use a bracket rather than a jack to hold the engine up/in place as when you remove/fit the gearbox the engine wobbles and makes it harder to line up the input shaft. I also have a specially designed bracket that sits on top of my trolley jack so I can strap the gearbox to the jack and this helps to pull the gearbox away and also stops it falling off the jack.

If you look harder you should be able to get the Luk flywheel/clutch kit a lot cheaper than you are quoting.
 
Good to see guys over her doing DIY stuff. For some reason the Americans seem to do more DIY than the guys here.

Also hats off to Dermont for giving tips on how to do especially as he is a Mechanic. :thumb:
 

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