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Wheels - will they fit?

cbr6dc

Montreal
Joined
5 Oct 2015
Messages
509
Not intending to get new wheels but I might buy some with tyres as a spare set lol.

I've been offered some at a good price which makes me wonder how they are knackered.

Basically they are BBS Rep 19".
Rear is ET47 - 19"x9.5" - 225
Front is ET45 - 19"x8.5" - 285

The profile is unknown but they are same width as current wheels so I'm assuming the same profile. My car is a 1999 C2 Cabriolet Tiptronic with stock suspension at the moment.
 
anyone? I have a pic of them on a lowered 996 narrow C2.

But the mentioned 5mm spacer on the front?
 
cbr6dc said:
anyone? I have a pic of them on a lowered 996 narrow C2.

But the mentioned 5mm spacer on the front?

Personally, I would be more bothered that they are reps. Any idea who made them?

My own experience with Reps is that they are as soft as cheese and have an aversion to staying circular. I know it's bloody pricey to get half decent aftermarket wheels but that's Porsche ownership.

Having said that, the BBS SR is available in the correct size (stick with 18" if you value your handling) and isn't to ridiculous on the cost scale.
 
No idea but I can ask. These are them on the car. Seems legit enough.

kX0aXCe.jpg
 
cbr6dc said:
Not intending to get new wheels but I might buy some with tyres as a spare set lol.

I've been offered some at a good price which makes me wonder how they are knackered.

Basically they are BBS Rep 19".
Rear is ET47 - 19"x9.5" - 225
Front is ET45 - 19"x8.5" - 285

The profile is unknown but they are same width as current wheels so I'm assuming the same profile. My car is a 1999 C2 Cabriolet Tiptronic with stock suspension at the moment.

I think you have your tyre widths the wrong way round ie Front =225 Rear 285

My take on the BBS reps are ..why buy reps secondhand, they would be hard to check for 'correct roundness' whereas if you buy a decent make wheel , the quality is often as good as OEM wheels .....

The BBS wheel is a great wheel , I can recommend them for a Porsche .....they just look great ......


T
 
The wheels will fit fine with an OEM tyre width and reduced profile to counteract the bigger 19" diameter that was never offered on the 996. ;)

As has been said, be careful with reps as there are good and bad manufacturers out there.

C.
 
911TEL said:
cbr6dc said:
Not intending to get new wheels but I might buy some with tyres as a spare set lol.

I've been offered some at a good price which makes me wonder how they are knackered.

Basically they are BBS Rep 19".
Rear is ET47 - 19"x9.5" - 225
Front is ET45 - 19"x8.5" - 285

The profile is unknown but they are same width as current wheels so I'm assuming the same profile. My car is a 1999 C2 Cabriolet Tiptronic with stock suspension at the moment.

I think you have your tyre widths the wrong way round ie Front =225 Rear 285

My take on the BBS reps are ..why buy reps secondhand, they would be hard to check for 'correct roundness' whereas if you buy a decent make wheel , the quality is often as good as OEM wheels .....

The BBS wheel is a great wheel , I can recommend them for a Porsche .....they just look great ......


T

Yes I got the widths wrong.

The only reason I am enquiring is because I have good tyres on the OEM wheels and figured buying 2nd hand wheels with tyres might be a cheaper option for the moment as I can still put the originals back then sell the wheels after selling the car.
 
With the fronts you will have 8mm less inner clearance and they will extend out an extra 18mm over the stock wheel (based on the OEM wheels fitted to my 996 C2: 7.5x18 ET50 with 225/40 tyres).

The rears will have 24mm extra inner clearance and extend out an extra 12mm, again based on OEM wheels (10x18 ET65 with 265/35 tyres).
 
ELA said:
With the fronts you will have 8mm less inner clearance and they will extend out an extra 18mm over the stock wheel (based on the OEM wheels fitted to my 996 C2: 7.5x18 ET50 with 225/40 tyres).

The rears will have 24mm extra inner clearance and extend out an extra 12mm, again based on OEM wheels (10x18 ET65 with 265/35 tyres).

I've seen stock is front = ET50 and rear = ET65.

That should mean 5mm closer on the front and 13mm closer on the rear shouldn't it?

In theory if anything I'd need 5mm spacers on front and 18mm spacer on rear?
 
cableguy said:
The wheels will fit fine with an OEM tyre width and reduced profile to counteract the bigger 19" diameter that was never offered on the 996. ;)

As has been said, be careful with reps as there are good and bad manufacturers out there.

C.

Cheers. :)
 
The bigger the offset ET number then the closer to the hub (inside) they sit, hence most owners upgrading prefer a lower offset to give a wider track and better looking stance. The only downside to this is that you may need to have your arches rolled depending on your tyre width and profile.

The rears you posted would be the equiv of a 15mm spacer (approx.), fronts with a 5mm spacer. Rears may need the arch tickling if you're going with a wide(r) tyre.

C.
 
cableguy said:
The bigger the offset ET number then the closer to the hub (inside) they sit, hence most owners upgrading prefer a lower offset to give a wider track and better looking stance. The only downside to this is that you may need to have your arches rolled depending on your tyre width and profile.

The rears you posted would be the equiv of a 15mm spacer (approx.), fronts with a 5mm spacer. Rears may need the arch tickling if you're going with a wide(r) tyre.

C.

The tyres I have on already are 285 wide so from what I can see the offset means the wheels will stick out 18mm LESS than stock? ET47 instead of ET 65?

Are you saying I would need a 15mm spacer on the rear and 5mm spacer on the front as ET50 was stock and ET45 on the new ones so have moved 5mm in?
 
No spacers required, the wheels you posted with the offsets mentioned would already have the equivalent of the spacers mentioned, hence the rear arches may need tickling.

C.
 
I don't get offsets lol.
 
:grin:

It takes a bit of getting used to CBR, but it's easy once you realise. Just listen to ELA and Cableguy as they're spot on.

Offsets work the opposite way round to how you first think. So a lower offset pushes the wheel out in the wheel arch and a higher offset tucks the wheel further in.
Think of the offset as the amount of material machined off the mounting face (the face that bolts onto your hub) of the wheel when it's made. The higher the offset the more material is missing, hence when you bolt the wheel on it sits further in.

So taking the rears as an example (and this is just what ELA has very helpfully stated already, but in a slightly different way) -

Stock wheel 10 inch wide et65.
New wheel 9.5 inch wide et47.

So the half inch (12.7mm) less width gets halved over the width of the wheel so the front face will now stick out quarter of an inch (6.35mm) less than it did and the rear edge (the inner side that spins near your suspension) will now be 6.35mm further away from your suspension.
So with the width sorted move on to offset.
The new wheel is 47mm instead of 65mm. That means the wheel will sit 18mm further out in the wheel arch, which is quite a bit. Even 5mm difference on offset is noticeable to the eye, but you have that 6.35mm to take back off as the wheel is narrower, so 18mm minus 6.35 = 11.65mm further out in total.
So probably fine as some people add 10mm or 15mm spacers to their cars original wheels.

Just for completeness we can do the inner face.
The inner face will also move out the 18mm due to offset and it's already 6.35mm further out due to the quarter of an inch reduction due to width. Add those together and that's the 24mm (24.35mm to be exact) ELA stated.

Again it's all been said, I just thought I'd explain in a way that I found easy when I was learning years ago. A diagram explains it much better and there are loads online.

ELA and cableguy apologies for the parrot routine. :thumb:

Of course the other thing to bear in mind is that you're going up an inch in diameter which when combined with the outer face of the wheel sitting 11.65mm further out could cause contact with the arch over bumps, (which is what Cableguy has already alluded to) especially if your car is lowered. You may think if your car isn't lowered then that's great, which it might be as far as clearance goes, but a standard ride height with 19's could end up making the car look a bit tractor-like or a bit like a rollerskate.

Good luck though, wheels make a huge difference although I'd be wary of copies.
 

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