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996 Central Locking \ Drivers Door Problem ---SOLVED

W

willy

Monza
Joined
1 Jul 2012
Messages
179
Hi all

Can anyone help me with this one?

For some time now, my key fob has been unable to operate the central locking. I suspect the receiving unit under the passenger seat is faulty, but have not bothered \ had time to investigate or fix.

So I've been using the old `key in the driver's door lock` method. No problem as long as I put the keys in the ignition within about 6 seconds to avoid the alarm going off.

Tonight its taken a turn for the worse. I attempted to open the car from the driver's door and it is as if it half unlocks. The window drops a small amount (but not enough) and the door itself does not unlock. Neither does the passenger door. But the alarm is triggered...

It results in the alarm going off repeatedly for about 10-15 minutes. At no point can I enter the car as neither door will open.

Any ideas?
 
Thanks for the response.

Yes - it's the getting in to the car that is the challenge - I think I can fix from there.
I have a mechanic friend coming around this afternoon with some `special tools' so let's see where it gets us.

Will update later.
 
Yay! Problem solved.

My friend arrived with a rather heavy duty coat-hanger device. By prising the window, he slipped the wire through and opened the door via the inside door release.

I could then disable the alarm by putting the keys in the ignition.

Next step was to find out what was wrong. I removed the drivers door panel and felt around the door pull from within the door. Fortunately I have small hands. The threaded bolt on the door pull was hanging loose and had detached from the plastic connector on the door lock mechanism.

I wasn't aware of how these two connected and suspected that the plastic connector had snapped through age but after a bit of Google, PelicanParts photos and a bit more fumbling in the dark I found that the plastic connector has an outer sheath that pulls back allowing for the threaded bolt to drop in to a slotted barrel. Then the sheath is pushed back into place firmly and the bolt is gripped.

Sorted. If it slips again, I will know what to do. Will also check whether the plastic connector can be replaced without a new lock mechanism.
 
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