Porsche 911UK Forum

Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.

Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.

Carbon Fibre resin repair - possible?

FRP

Well-known member
Joined
30 Apr 2014
Messages
1,910
Dear 911uk members

I have taken a punt on a techequipment gear leaver that has a few cracks, one is bad, the others are not so bad (it was pretty cheap)

How can this be repaired ? a careful wet and dry process or does the resin (as opposed to 2 pac laquer) need to be treated differently...the worst crack is quite thick/deep and i am told the resin is thick also ??? it looks thick when i look at it anyway???

Hope someone can help or point me in the right direction

Thanks Faried
 

Attachments

  • img_3700_601.jpg
    img_3700_601.jpg
    855.9 KB · Views: 3,311
Would it not be easier to have it carbon dipped, and remove/mask over the alu bit?

There was a carbon-dipping group buy doing the rounds recently.
 
You just need some clear resin.. apply with a thin brush... Then flat back with 2000 grit wet n dry... polish to finish with a little rubbing compound.

I presume its not a structural crack... just in the gel coat?
 
Thanks for the suggestions Robertb and Paul987

it, the crack looks like just the gel coat to me,,,,but the gel coat looks to be at least 1mm to 2mm thick and therefore the crack. This is what i am confused about, to remove the visible crack i would have thought i would need to sand down the crack in full and re resin.....ie the crack looks deep as the resin

the picture does not show how deep it looks to me

Am i being stupid or shall i just go for it with some 2000 wet and dry? do i need any compound and if so what ?

Dont really want to dip it Robertb - but Thanks. This may be my secondary route

I love this forum,,,,so much knowledge
 
If the resin was thin enough it should fill the crack right to the bottom. Even if it doesn`t get right to the bottom of the crack, once you flat it back and polish it, you probably wouldn`t even see it :thumb:
 
kurlykris - Thanks

So some wet and dry it is and then see how i go...scared, could ***** it all up lol

I can only feel the crack but feel is is deeper than i can see (picture does not show it up), there is no "dip" in the crack to fill.

If it has delaminated, it could be a long process???

time will tell!!!

Thanks
 
Perfect username for the thread title :grin:
 
I am not suggesting you try this, as I haven`t done it personally .... so no liability accepted :wink: , but my S-I-L has his own chip and scratch repair business. Not to give too many trade secrets away but after applying the colour he uses a 2 pack gel, similar to what wheel repair guys use for light damage.
As I see it you would need to `v` it out slightly, apply the gel, which is cured instantly with a spray activator. It then needs to be shaved down so it is flush, flatted with 2000paper then polished.

Again I say I have never tried it but it seems feasible to me and would be what a `smart repairer` would try.
 
Chaser . Many thanks

Makes sense .... now I am more nervous thou
 
chaser said:
I am not suggesting you try this, as I haven`t done it personally .... so no liability accepted :wink: , but my S-I-L has his own chip and scratch repair business. Not to give too many trade secrets away but after applying the colour he uses a 2 pack gel, similar to what wheel repair guys use for light damage.
As I see it you would need to `v` it out slightly, apply the gel, which is cured instantly with a spray activator. It then needs to be shaved down so it is flush, flatted with 2000paper then polished.

Again I say I have never tried it but it seems feasible to me and would be what a `smart repairer` would try.

On that note, why not try a smart repairer... you could send pics to Chaser's SIL, see if he can do anything for you.
 
I would sand it down past the crack point then build up resin. Do it in thin layers adding the next as the last turns to gel consistency.

Just a final sand down to get it all level followed by a polish for a nice finish.

When I played around with carbon fiber on my last car I found boat resin to be the best for clarity and it came with UV protection to protect the carbon underneath.
 
MANY MANY Thanks to you guys,,,,,will attempt a repair myself when i am feeling brave !!!

Regards
 
Nothing to add to the repair process but had to let you know that you won't regret your choice of gear stick, I have exactly the same one in my car and absolutely love the way it feels. Also gives the interior a nice little lift. When new it was almost a 2k option.
 
I do a lot of carbon repairs you need to check that the crack isnt into the layer of carbon if it is you will need to apply another layer of carbon cloth as if you dont the crack will re apear later in time you dont want to leave an epoxy only finish as this is not uv stable and will go yellow and fade in the uv light.
It shouldnt have any gelocat on this as this would be a prepreg construction.
If it isnt into the carbon cloth i would fill up with SP320 as this is the only resin that give it clear finish and will build some depth but it will need to be finished in some 2 pack laquer.

Hope this helps
 

New Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
124,356
Messages
1,439,463
Members
48,715
Latest member
911tt1
Back
Top