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Check Engine Light On!

D

DucatiRob

Mugello
Joined
22 Jul 2015
Messages
2,236
Driving to work this morning the dreaded CEL came on after about 4 miles into my short 8 mile commute. Nothing obvious in terms of the engine seems to be running perfectly ok.

I am wondering if the twin filter induction I have fitted might be he culprit? I know that my coil packs are not in great condition and need to be replaced soon, but no signs of rough running before or after fitting the intake system.

Any ideas where to look first? Hopefully my cheapie Bluetooth ELM37 and Torque app might throw some light on it!
 
Did you do an engine "reboot"? (i.e. turn off and on again). If so, did the CEL go away or come back on?
 
DeathStar said:
Did you do an engine "reboot"? (i.e. turn off and on again). If so, did the CEL go away or come back on?
Click to expand...

Have not done that yet, expecting to disappear when I start it up to go home!
 
DucatiRob said:
DeathStar said:
Did you do an engine "reboot"? (i.e. turn off and on again). If so, did the CEL go away or come back on?
Click to expand...

Have not done that yet, expecting to disappear when I start it up to go home!
Click to expand...

I used to get the ABS/PSM alarms come up on my old 996t after I installed a twin air-intake system on it - but only when I was "pressing on" quite hard; the MAF couldn't meter the air properly and would trigger the alarms. I'd just drop the clutch, turn the engine off, coast for a second or two then restart the engine and the alarms would disappear.
 
DeathStar said:
DucatiRob said:
DeathStar said:
Did you do an engine "reboot"? (i.e. turn off and on again). If so, did the CEL go away or come back on?
Click to expand...

Have not done that yet, expecting to disappear when I start it up to go home!
Click to expand...

I used to get the ABS/PSM alarms come up on my old 996t after I installed a twin air-intake system on it - but only when I was "pressing on" quite hard; the MAF couldn't meter the air properly and would trigger the alarms. I'd just drop the clutch, turn the engine off, coast for a second or two then restart the engine and the alarms would disappear.
Click to expand...

If it's not a coil pack leaking charge then it might be the MAF, it's been on for about 4 or 5 weeks without any problems. The car wasn't warmed up properly when it came on so I was just taking it steady.

The twin intake has created a flat spot around 4000rpm and definitely needs a remap to sort it out. One of my concerns with this system is two cone filters being exposed to water dripping from the air scoops. Doubt this would cause an issue with the MAF though!
 
Are the ABS and PSM alarm lamps coming on then?
 
It could be anything really but a rule of thumb i work from ..

EML light and running problems then coil , maf , temp sender etc .. you have a fault in other words and dont really need to see the eml to know it .

EML with no running issues then its cat / lambda .. basically anything to do with saveing the planet type stuff and not the running of the car .
 
Demort said:
It could be anything really but a rule of thumb i work from ..

EML light and running problems then coil , maf , temp sender etc .. you have a fault in other words and dont really need to see the eml to know it .

EML with no running issues then its cat / lambda .. basically anything to do with saveing the planet type stuff and not the running of the car .
Click to expand...

Thanks Dermot! Didn't have time this evening to try the OBD reader on. Will have a try tomorrow. The light comes on straight away when the engine is started, no running problems and no other error messages so hopefully nothing too serious!
 
So I have just connected my Xtool iOBD2 diagnostic reader (not sure how good this thing is) and it shows the following fault codes:

P2178 System Too Rich Off Idle Bank 1

P2180 System Too Rich Off Idle Bank 2

Could this be as a result of the twin intake I have fitted? If anything I would have expected the it to run too lean with the extra airflow! And why now when it has been on for several weeks?

As it is showing codes for both banks, guessing it isn't the lambda sensors, would they both fail at the same time?

Any help greatly appreciated!
 
rob as you say i think it unlikely 2 sensors would suddenly fail, so it might be that your MAF isn't working properly with the new filters or as it comes on immediately it might be that you have an air leak somewhere ?
 
Its something to do with the maf sensor i would guess , not sure of what mods you have or this intake but i think something is upsetting the maf system .

EDIT ..

Quick search and this might explain it , first one i found though ..

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2178
 
Demort said:
Its something to do with the maf sensor i would guess , not sure of what mods you have or this intake but i think something is upsetting the maf system .

EDIT ..

Quick search and this might explain it , first one i found though ..

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2178
Click to expand...

Thanks for this Dermot. I did remove the MAF sensor today and cleaned it but it didn't make any difference, i will check the contacts and wiring tomorrow just in case! Will also check the voltage if I can find reference figures.

Might put the original air filter box back on to rule out the intake system too.
 
DucatiRob said:
Demort said:
Its something to do with the maf sensor i would guess , not sure of what mods you have or this intake but i think something is upsetting the maf system .

EDIT ..

Quick search and this might explain it , first one i found though ..

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2178
Click to expand...

Thanks for this Dermot. I did remove the MAF sensor today and cleaned it but it didn't make any difference, i will check the contacts and wiring tomorrow just in case! Will also check the voltage if I can find reference figures.

Might put the original air filter box back on to rule out the intake system too.
Click to expand...

Just had a search on the fault code, some differing explanations, common are faulty MAF, faulty O2 sensors etc, plus injectors leaking, fuel pressure, coil pack. Would I be right in ruling out anything that is specific to just one bank, injectors, coils etc. as I have the code for both banks?
 
You have a rich fault on both banks so if injectors leaking you would have to have one on each bank doing it .. possible i guess , pretty unlikely though .

Coil packs .. misfire , rough running .. you didnt say that there was any running faults and that it drove ok ? these would tend to give obvious poor running i feel .

Blocked cats .. have to be both banks but possible as is lambda sensors .. again both banks .. this is the trouble , any fault would have to effect both banks .. hence i went with its the Maf system :)

Fuel pressure would also effect both banks .. so thats another good place to check.

My concern though is the mods that have been fitted and this fault seems to have occured close to then .

I cant help with that area im afraid , i work on standard cars , mods tend to make strange things happen , i like to put a car back to standard and then see if the faults still there before continueing im afraid in the workshop .

At work i would be looking at the actual values for the lambdas and the long term fuel adjustment .. RKAT , FRAU , FROU to see if that pointed to anything .

Just one other possiblity is the pressure sensor in the dme , should be a value of around 1 bar or 1024 millibars i think , that would affect fueling but pretty rare to go faulty .


There was a post about modified exhaust and lack of back pressure causeing a flat spot .. remap to cure , it maybe that this is what you have and the car just needs maping .. but im guessing now im afraid , out of my normal area :(
 
Thanks again Dermot! I checked the MAF for any obvious signs of bad connections, wiring faults etc but all seemed OK. Cleaned the contacts on the MAF connection. Checked for any air leaks but except for the connection to the throttle body it's difficult to see anything.

I cleared the fault codes and took it for spin, it idled poorly at first and felt a bit rough for a while but settled down and seemed OK after, I realise later I had left the hung out of the vacuum solenoid that used to connect to the old airbox, which probably explains the rough idling and poor running.

The check engine light didn't come back on though, which I presume is good?
 
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