Can you identify my turbos?

911tom · 17 Jan 2016

So bit of background. I currently have a 'dms 600hp kit' fitted to my car. In short I brought the kit very cheap two years ago from a guy that for whatever reason never fitted to his car. I fitted it all myself and got Dms to do the tuning. Problem is I know nothing about the turbos themselves. Dms have given me a quote to take the car up to 650hp. This includes injectors and fuel pump but they say the turbos are not a problem. So I am suspecting they k24/18g as they have the k24 Porsche code. I have taken a few pics of the impeller on the cold side. The inlet measures around 52mm it then steps down and the impeller looks to be around 48mm ish, it's hard to measure accurately.

Any ideas???

ragpicker · 17 Jan 2016

Yep, look like standard 996 GT2 K24's to me mate.

I think the same blower was also used on the X50 pack too :?:

ragpicker · 17 Jan 2016

PS it looks like you're loving your new lift!!

haha

neil allan · 17 Jan 2016

It may be a k26 wheel fitted, a standard k24 will only do around 570 bhp.

Tom did you get my pm regarding exhaust ?

911tom · 17 Jan 2016

neil allan said:
It may be a k26 wheel fitted, a standard k24 will only do around 570 bhp.

Tom did you get my pm regarding exhaust ?

Sorry Neil. Pm now sent! I must have got distracted.

You could be onto something there! Look very similar to these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252241993582

911tom · 17 Jan 2016

ragpicker said:
Yep, look like standard 996 GT2 K24's to me mate.

I think the same blower was also used on the X50 pack too :?:

Thanks Andrew. I have been studying some stock k24 pics and they look very similar. Also look a lot like the k26 as Neil suggests. Would not be surprised if Dms just do not know and are assuming. Car made 573 on the dyno running 1.1bar. It does not feel that laggy and boosts hard through all gears.... Reality is if they are either then I'll most likely upgrade to something else in the next 18 months.

Oh loving the ramp. Been boost pressure testing today as since changing the plenum I seem to have less power and am occasionally get an imbalance fault code. Found a big leak on the connection to the throttle body and one on the control line to the diverter valves. They are now fixed but one / both the diverters are not holding back boost. My two compressor piped together could not keep up with the demand and were only able to charge the system to 0.5 bar. Even tried connecting a separate positive 1 bar pressure on to the control line and the diverters were still open. Must be faulty? Next step is to get them out and pressure test on the floor so I can see which is leaking. These are the forge metal valve. Have read online that some people suggest steering clear of the metal piston type and sticking with the Bosch 710 N?

ragpicker · 18 Jan 2016

I presume you're testing by pressurising the turbo inlets?

I flogged my Forge DV's last year for no other reason than I didn't like how chunky they looked. :?

What I would say about them is that they are super easy to service - just take them apart, clean up, replace o-rings and Spring if needed and then put them back together. They really are a bulletproof bit of kit!

If you haven't ever serviced them then the Pistons can stick slightly up and cause you some problems but this is very easily fixed by the above method and lubing the piston with a bit of grease!

I replaced them with the Bosch 710s which cost me about £30 or so I think. These are much easier to work around due to their size but they are not a life time item like the Forge.

The little pipe leading to the T-piece that splits off to the nipples of the DV's often causes a big leak (and was the leak I had at Vmax). If your car is anything like mine all these little rubber hoses perish and split like they've been stuck in a pyramid for a thousand years!

911tom · 18 Jan 2016

I got the diverter valves off the car this morning before work and tested them on the ground. Work fine and not leaking. So unless by chance moving them around a bit has freed them off the issue is something else. Re the control lines leaking I did a have a leak there but sorted that and to be honest I replaced most the vac lines when fitting the plenum as you say Andrew they were all quite tired. The air was definitely finding its way back in to the air box rather than leaking so it can only really be one of the diverter valves weeping I think or maybe the N75 is not holding properly. It just seemed like a lot more air than a vac line could carry. Both compressors were running flat out and only able to produce half a bar. Also I could feel the air coming out of the air box and the turbo intake pipes. My next step is to put it all back together and test again. If it is the same then I will take the vac tube off the N75 that runs back to the bottom of the diverter valves.

ragpicker · 18 Jan 2016

Ahhh!

If you're pressurising from the airbox and the turbo inlet pipes aren't sealed completely tight you can lose an enormous amount of air through what feels like a small leak! If this is the case I would recommend sealing the turbo inlet pipes properly with some self amalg tape over the inlet before you put the pipe on, this tends to give the pipe a nice seal when you tighten them up and allows you to leak test properly.

If you are pressurising at one of the turbo inlets with the other side inlet blanked off and are still unable to produce any significant pressure then you have a giant leak from somewhere.

I've lost track of the number of hours I've spent looking for leaks when in actual fact it was simply that the inlet pipes weren't sealed off properly.

911tom · 18 Jan 2016

I am testing from one turbo inlet and blanking the other. I could hear and even feel the air coming through the air filter so it has to be a diverter valve or n75 issue as these are the only two parts the connect the pressurised part of the intake back into the non-pressure side. Unless I am mistaken? Hopefully I'll find some time over the next few days to investigate further.

911tom · 19 Jan 2016

I spent a bit more time on this this morning. It seems the air that was finding its way back up to the airbox was coming from the pipe in the below photo. I can not seem to find reference to this pipe in any of the diagrams and at this stage have been unable to trace where it connects in. Any ideas what it does? Also should I expect this to allow pressurised air back in to the non-pressurised side of the turbos? There is only one of these pipes on the LHS of the car. The drivers side turbo does not have one.

Once I plugged this line I was then able to fill the system to 1 bar. It rapidly lost pressure due to another line that is completely disconnected. Took me a while to find this one even though the line was completely open. I have highlighted this line in the parts diagram. It looks as though it connects on to something that looks a bit like a fuel pressure regulator from the part diagram but maybe bigger. I can not physically see any of this as it is deep inside the engine bay. I can only just get my hand in to feel it. It is going to be fun getting at it tomorrow morning, will most likely end up lowering the engine off the mounts. Good job I have a ramp!

neil allan · 19 Jan 2016

The line from the intake at the turbo goes up to the left hand side port on your IPD plenum, and should have a check valve in it.

Few pics of the pipework here

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...reponse-irregular-idle-vacuum-leak-other.html

The vac line that is disconnected looks to be the one going to your fuel pressure regulator, you should be able to just see it on the rail down behind the secondary air pump. If this is disconnected your car will be going mega lean on boost.

911tom · 19 Jan 2016

Thank you Neil. I said looks like the fuel pressure regulator hoping it wasn't... Lucky I decided to do this test then! I don't think it was hanging off yesterday as I think I would have heard it leaking there so hopefully it has just happened with me taking the y pipe on and off. The car was driving fine before so fingers crossed it has just happened and there is no damage done! Ill be making sure that one is on nice and tight.

Thanks also for pointing me in the direction of the other pipe. I can only presume the check valve has failed. On the assumption that air should not travel through it in that direction? The amount of leaks I've found maybe I do not need to tune the car further after all, looking forward to driving it with no leaks!

ragpicker · 19 Jan 2016

I bought my IPD plenum when I broke the hat off the top of the original plenum.

I was fiddling with the original plenum because I was changing this check valve! Ever since I bought the car I had to plug the pipe from the check valve to the inlet of the turbo with something. I thought this was normal until I found out otherwise... I think it cost me about £30 from memory. I bought one for Jonathan555 at the time too because his was faulty too.

I can't see what difference it makes because the air is sealed in a pressurised system so it doesn't matter if the check valve works or not.. Having said that, there must be a reason for it otherwise they wouldn't have put one on in the first place...

By the time you fix all these leaks you'll notice a much more responsive motor I reckon!

911tom · 19 Jan 2016

ragpicker said:
I bought my IPD plenum when I broke the hat off the top of the original plenum.

I was fiddling with the original plenum because I was changing this check valve! Ever since I bought the car I had to plug the pipe from the check valve to the inlet of the turbo with something. I thought this was normal until I found out otherwise... I think it cost me about £30 from memory. I bought one for Jonathan555 at the time too because his was faulty too.

I can't see what difference it makes because the air is sealed in a pressurised system so it doesn't matter if the check valve works or not.. Having said that, there must be a reason for it otherwise they wouldn't have put one on in the first place...

By the time you fix all these leaks you'll notice a much more responsive motor I reckon!

Ordered a replacement already, was £20.33 from opc. I guess it does need the check valve as otherwise the air is pushed back in to the non-pressurised part of the intake so that air would have to go through the turbo in order to be of use in combustion so likely just as inefficient as a boost leak of the equivalent size. Do you think it is needed to assist with idle when the throttle body is closed, as in the air would travel in the other direction? I think all my issues have come since fitting the ipd. It is as you know quite an awkward and intrusive job.

Looking forward to the next drive! Thanks for all your help Andrew and Neil :thumbs:

Can you identify my turbos?

911tom

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