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Battery Isolator - how to use without setting off alarm?

d2000

New member
Joined
8 Nov 2014
Messages
10
Hi All,
As i don't get to use my car often enough, the battery doesn't get enough of a charge to run the alarm/tracker - or whatever it is that likes to use the juice when parked up for a month and have any left over for the actual starting!

Although i'm parked in a garage, there is no access to power so i cannot just leave a CTEK hooked up to it.

As far as i can see, my only option is to disconnect the battery after I've locked up (whilst realising that I'll need to hook up the jump start pack to open the bonnet - so have made up a jump start pack to cig lighter socket cable to make this bit easy).

To make disconnecting the battery easy, this morning i fitted one of the screw isolator things (similar to this -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Cut-Off-Switch-Universal/dp/B007C7CJT4 ).
Fitted neatly with plenty of space under the plastic cover - all good so far!

...problem occurs: I lock the car up (leaving the bonnet open) but all doors closed and locked (such that windows are fully raised) and remove the screw to disconnect the battery - The Alarm goes off!!

The alarm goes off presumably running on some back-up battery - and more annoyingly, can only be turned off by reconnecting the main battery and unlocking (the button on the key had no effect until main battery was reconnected - by which time my ears hurt!).

So I'm stumped - how can I leave the car securely locked up, but have the battery disconnected such that I'll have enough juice to start it when I next get a chance to?!?

(i searched the forum as i'm sure i'm not the first to try this - but the only solution that kept coming up was leaving a battery conditioner hooked up - which isn't an option).
 
Do you disarm the locking system before disconnecting the battery?

There must be a way to leave the battery disconnected as you intend.
 
chowgar said:
Do you disarm the locking system before disconnecting the battery?

There must be a way to leave the battery disconnected as you intend.

Nope - I want to leave it with the doors locked - and I haven't found a way to lock it without arming the alarm? Also if I disconnect the battery with the doors unlocked (and therefore alarm not armed) then I am unable to lock the passenger door (lock drivers door with key fine - but passenger door remains unlocked and doesn't have a key slot!).


Any suggestions - i agree, there must be a way!?
 
d2000 said:
Hi All,
As i don't get to use my car often enough, the battery doesn't get enough of a charge to run the alarm/tracker - or whatever it is that likes to use the juice when parked up for a month and have any left over for the actual starting!

Although i'm parked in a garage, there is no access to power so i cannot just leave a CTEK hooked up to it.

As far as i can see, my only option is to disconnect the battery after I've locked up (whilst realising that I'll need to hook up the jump start pack to open the bonnet - so have made up a jump start pack to cig lighter socket cable to make this bit easy).

To make disconnecting the battery easy, this morning i fitted one of the screw isolator things (similar to this -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Cut-Off-Switch-Universal/dp/B007C7CJT4 ).
Fitted neatly with plenty of space under the plastic cover - all good so far!

...problem occurs: I lock the car up (leaving the bonnet open) but all doors closed and locked (such that windows are fully raised) and remove the screw to disconnect the battery - The Alarm goes off!!

The alarm goes off presumably running on some back-up battery - and more annoyingly, can only be turned off by reconnecting the main battery and unlocking (the button on the key had no effect until main battery was reconnected - by which time my ears hurt!).

So I'm stumped - how can I leave the car securely locked up, but have the battery disconnected such that I'll have enough juice to start it when I next get a chance to?!?

(i searched the forum as i'm sure i'm not the first to try this - but the only solution that kept coming up was leaving a battery conditioner hooked up - which isn't an option).

Have you thought about using one of those Halfords Solar Powered Battery Chargers if you have no power to your garage?
 
DaveH911 said:
Have you thought about using one of those Halfords Solar Powered Battery Chargers if you have no power to your garage?

Yes - no one seemed that impressed with the solar chargers last time i looked at them - although that was a couple of years ago ...but there isn't much natural light nearby (florescent tube/strip lights) so don't think they'll generate enough power
 
Buy a second battery, stick it in the boot, and connect it in parallel to the normal battery with jump leads. Give you twice as long before it won't start, and should stop you deep cycling the main battery as much, extending its life.
 
My understanding is that if you disconnect the battery while the ignition is switched on the alarm will not go off.

Not sure what happens if you then lock the car with the key as my car stays unlocked.
 
Pretzel said:
My understanding is that if you disconnect the battery while the ignition is switched on the alarm will not go off.

Not sure what happens if you then lock the car with the key as my car stays unlocked.

Yes - problem is I can only lock the drivers door, the passenger side door remains unlocked as it doesn't have a key slot - it's driven by the central locking, which needs the battery connected ....unless there is someway of locking that door from the inside (other than pressing the lock button on the dash - which needs power!) - i'm hoping i've missed something obvious here?
 
I think you can have your key programmed so it only unlocks the drivers door, think that would solve the issue. I believe you can do it through the PCM if your car has got sports chrono fitted.
 
I remember reading on another forum that when the guy disconnected the battery he left the keys in the ignition (cannot remember which position but obviously not with the car started) to prevent the alarm from activating. Not sure if this would help you but I thought I would mention it.
 
Did anyone come up with a solution to this?

I am in a similar position to the OP
 
Hi,

Similar problem to OP...

My solution, Amazon solar panel and charger.

POWOXI 20W Solar Panel,12V Solar Panel Charger Kit + 8A Controller, Suitable for Automotive, Motorcycle, Boat, ATV, Marine, RV, Trailer, Powersports, Snowmobile etc. Various 12V batteries

Process for me on a 2005 997.1 C2S with sat nav

Remove fuse for sat nav (Row D, Fuse 9; 10 amp)
Park car in garage (leave bonnet unlocked)
Lock car
Attach solar charger controller
Battery stays stable at approximately 12.6 volts

I am no expert but the background draw on the battery, whilst the car is sat unused (parasitic draw) after some basic calculations is low enough with the sat nav fuse removed to allow the 20 watt panel to provide enough energy to keep the battery topped up.

My caveat is, I have only been using this for the last four months so currently have no data during the darker months.

I know there is a much better manufactured piece of kit (the name escapes me) but after what appears to be a successful test with the Amazon kit I may now upgrade next year!

Hope this helps
 
I have just bought a battery brain battery cut out
https://www.batterybrain.co.uk
I expect it will work without any alarm problems
I'll lock the car on the remote and then just cut the battery power with the battery brain remote control.



jonnny said:
Hi,

Similar problem to OP...

My solution, Amazon solar panel and charger.

POWOXI 20W Solar Panel,12V Solar Panel Charger Kit + 8A Controller, Suitable for Automotive, Motorcycle, Boat, ATV, Marine, RV, Trailer, Powersports, Snowmobile etc. Various 12V batteries

Process for me on a 2005 997.1 C2S with sat nav

Remove fuse for sat nav (Row D, Fuse 9; 10 amp)
Park car in garage (leave bonnet unlocked)
Lock car
Attach solar charger controller
Battery stays stable at approximately 12.6 volts

I am no expert but the background draw on the battery, whilst the car is sat unused (parasitic draw) after some basic calculations is low enough with the sat nav fuse removed to allow the 20 watt panel to provide enough energy to keep the battery topped up.

My caveat is, I have only been using this for the last four months so currently have no data during the darker months.

I know there is a much better manufactured piece of kit (the name escapes me) but after what appears to be a successful test with the Amazon kit I may now upgrade next year!

Hope this helps
 
If you've got a c16 (UK spec) car disconnecting the battery will trigger the alarm unless the keys are in position 1 (at least)

Battery isolator therefore not going to work.

Ctek or solar panel is your best bet, unless you want to leave the car with the keys in.
 
That's a nuisance
I'll need to see if there's a work around
Thanks


jonno_ said:
If you've got a c16 (UK spec) car disconnecting the battery will trigger the alarm unless the keys are in position 1 (at least)

Battery isolator therefore not going to work.

Ctek or solar panel is your best bet, unless you want to leave the car with the keys in.
 

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