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clutch pedal query

ChrisT70

Well-known member
Joined
26 Mar 2015
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1,506
One thing i have noticed with my new car is the clutch pedal has quite a bit of "dead" movement at the top of its stroke, ie a small amount of movement in the pedal initially before it actually seems to move the pushrod. Is this common and is it adjustable or can it be improved?
Theres nothing wrong with the actual clutch or action just a bit of "slack " before anything happens. It feels like a two step action sometimes. My friend noticed it also when i lent him the keys.
 
Hi,

No, that doesn't sound right. The clutch works from the same reservoir as the brake system, make sure that both have had the brake fluid changed recently.

Often the brakes are bled etc and the clutch line neglected.

Also, remove the panel under the pedals that covers the mechanisms for the brakes and clutch and check the movement of the pedal against the clutch master cylinder. Sounds difficult but its easy. The only tools required are a phillips head screwdriver, a pair of mole grips and a torch.

Regards
GR
 
Could be slave cylinder? Known weakness over time and mileage and not expensive to fix. Further down the line the pedal stays down and won't come back without you using the side of your foot. Have had mine done for the latter.

Interestingly, was in JAZ this week and they say replace slave and master at the same time for peace of mind.
 
Good excuse to fit an MPL slave cylinder, one of the best mods you can do IMHO, vastly improves the clutch feel even if its otherwise as should be ie its too heavy :thumb:
 
This is definitely dead movement before it actually touches the pushrod as such. Its not failing to come back up or anything. Will have a poke around under the mats and have a look
 
The clutch pedal is positively mechanically linked to the pushrod of the master cylinder's piston - there is no mechanical slack in the system except that provided by the design of the master cylinder and its piston.

It sounds like a proper investigation of the clutch hydraulics is needed, and certainly a proper bleed of that system.

The ultimate solution though it a new master cylinder, MPL slave cylinder, the latest version of the clutch kinematic lever fitted and the whole pedal assembly cleaned and lubricated. The gearbox input shaft splines also need to be lubricated so that the friction plate moves freely on them. Then you will have a clutch that is a joy to use rather than the notchy, heavy thing that a lot of these cars seem to suffer from.
 
9xxnick said:
The clutch pedal is positively mechanically linked to the pushrod of the master cylinder's piston - there is no mechanical slack in the system except that provided by the design of the master cylinder and its piston.

It sounds like a proper investigation of the clutch hydraulics is needed, and certainly a proper bleed of that system.

The ultimate solution though it a new master cylinder, MPL slave cylinder, the latest version of the clutch kinematic lever fitted and the whole pedal assembly cleaned and lubricated. The gearbox input shaft splines also need to be lubricated so that the friction plate moves freely on them. Then you will have a clutch that is a joy to use rather than the notchy, heavy thing that a lot of these cars seem to suffer from.

Cheers for that. Its heavy but not a nightmare by any means. Will bleed it when i get time and have a nosey.
 
9xxnick said:
The clutch pedal is positively mechanically linked to the pushrod of the master cylinder's piston - there is no mechanical slack in the system except that provided by the design of the master cylinder and its piston.

It sounds like a proper investigation of the clutch hydraulics is needed, and certainly a proper bleed of that system.

The ultimate solution though it a new master cylinder, MPL slave cylinder, the latest version of the clutch kinematic lever fitted and the whole pedal assembly cleaned and lubricated. The gearbox input shaft splines also need to be lubricated so that the friction plate moves freely on them. Then you will have a clutch that is a joy to use rather than the notchy, heavy thing that a lot of these cars seem to suffer from.

Can you get to the splines in any way or is it gearbox off work?
 
This may help:
 

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That is very helpful thanks as a starting check. Is that from a workshop manual download?
 
I have a squeak that has developed when depressing/releasing the clutch pedal, it can be felt through the pedal, but the pedal returns back to the correct position fine, the feel and bite of the clutch is great, just afraid that one day something will go ping and I will be stranded!!!
Could the MPL master cylinder solve this, or could it be something more serious like the pressure plate?!? :dont know:
 
Hi,

Yup, that's straight from the workshop manual.

As for the clutch squeak, may be worth greasing the slave cylinder push rod to clutch fork connection.

However the parts aren't too expensive, may be worth changing both the master cylinder and slave. That's the most you can do without removing the gearbox. The splines on the box can't be lubricated without removal of the transmission.

Regards
GR
 
By the way, as a "top tip", when you reconnect the throttle pedal ball joint onto the back of the pedal, I've found it's easiest to put the board over the pedals box back, put a pair of mole grips flat on the board and clamp the push rod where it comes through. That will allow you to push the pedal back onto the ball joint.

Hope that helps.
GR
 
I've spent an awesome afternoon driving round Derbyshire and decided the pedal isnt heavy I'm just a wimp.its fine. It returns back to position. The only issue is a genuine 3/4" movement in the pedal before it actually touches or affects anything. I think I'll see if anything can be adjusted as above now. Its just like a two step pedal tbh. Assume this first "step" is too much and needs sorting in time.
 

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