Leaking pipe from oil tank

993Type · 1 Mar 2015

Hi - I'm after some advice,

I've managed to nick the oil pipe second from bottom coming out of the oil tank during a horrendous day removing black tar type underseal from the o/s rear wheel arch.

I'd used a steamer and scraper for this first round and got nowhere, so three angle grinders later finally managed to get to fresh metal in readiness for a repaint, all part of of a home chassis leg fix.

The pipe is now trickling oil out slowly which means I can't have the arches painted until I can rectify and I don"t think I can stem the leak with a temporary repair.

The pipe is a very cheap plastic flexi pipe almost like cable trunking. It disappears into the inner wheel arch and the depths of the car.

The car is due an oil change anyway so losing the oil during the switch is not a problem, but can anyone identify what this pipe is and how much grief I'm in for in the replacement? I'm thinking its a recovery to a local indie as I'm not putting the car back together just to take it apart again for the paint guy once this has been fixed!!

The pipe does look a little fragile, the power sander must have just caught it and created a nick in the flexible bend.

Thanks in advance to those who can help advise me!

993Type · 1 Mar 2015

It looks like it maybe the filler pipe......

Has anyone ever switched this on their car??

If I have to drop the oil at home, I'm tempted to take out the tank and have it powder coated as it'd covered in the same tar like sealant that was in the o/s wheel arch.

My cars starting to resemble a very big air fix kit!!

axlefoley · 1 Mar 2015

If it's the oil filler neck pipe then can be a bit of nightmare i think if unlucky ,I put a hole in mine when welding/repairing my chassis legs . It Goes into the inner wheelhouse then runs through the os chassis leg then in to the engine comparment were you put the oil in , think the problem is when you connect the new pipe to the old one and pull it through the chassis leg it can catch and there's no acess to see where it gets caught or to help it through .
i put some window sealer around mine then wrapped it with gaffer tape for a temporary repair and done a 3hr trip to get it replaced at my garage and it held up . take it to a compatant garage and hopefully won't be a problem.
Could take 1hr or 5hr . Good luck

berni29 · 1 Mar 2015

Hi

I cannot help with the oil pipe, but I once removed all the underseal from the front boot floor of the car. There were some small areas of rust where the underseal had lifted away. Rather than spot repair I removed it all.

By the end I had almost lost the will to live.

Best of luck!

Berni

993Type · 1 Mar 2015

Well,

Removed the grommet and have bodged a duct tape tie wrap fix to tide me over until it goes in. Spent a miserable 4 hours in the rain cleaning the rear arches to remove as much as possible for the paint shop.

Thanks for the posts above. Also had the steamer out to continue the clean up and moved the damn tar stuff back over fresh metal near the filler pipe again. Live and learn.

I'm doing this all now so the rear can be rebuilt in the knowledge that there is no rust and enough paint and wax to last the next 100K. Going to leave a note in there for the next unlucky sod that says 'about this time, you'll be wishing you paid someone else to do this!!'

On the plus side the back end was very clean and hides the mileage well so I'll have no issue using it in all weathers.

Axle, thanks for the note, also seen a few web hits describing the technique but as I'll need new oil anyway, I'm leaving for the Indy to sort for me. If I can't get the new pipe in, it's recovery time so I'll let the garage manage this oil change.

Berni, the underseal has been a pig. Someone had also tarred over the o/s of my car but the metal underneath was fresh, so no idea why they just did one side. Covered the oil tank and everything in the inner wing for some reason. I'm leaving the tank and the inner flank covered as the stuff is stuck solid and providing good protection but I've now cleared the wheel arch itself.

Once I'm done I'll load photos on a new thread in case someone is interested.

wozy · 1 Mar 2015

If you need a replacement, is this it? Might save a wedge on 'Porsche' tax.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-993-Oil-Tank-Breather-Pipe-New-/261446658887

That job of stripping sounds awful. Feel for you buddy. Especially in this weather.

993Type · 2 Mar 2015

Thanks Wozy, checked the catalogue and found the part, it's the flexi pipe going through the bulkhead.

Bodge holding up well, lots of spare oil in the garage so no issue getting to Strasse or similar.

Have asked OPC for a quote for fixing while changing oil for new classic brew........

They were adamant they would offer a fixed price and work to compete with the independents so shall see........

993Type · 4 Mar 2015

£70 pound for the pipe..........

Have ordered in readiness.

Interested to see what the OPC will charge to fit.

Depending on luck, can be anything from an hour to four apparently.......

993Type · 4 Mar 2015

edited as double post.........

carruthers · 4 Mar 2015

Is it possible to sleeve it i.e cut it insert a suitable sleeve and fix both ends with jubilee clips?

993Type · 5 Mar 2015

That's a brilliant idea.

I do reckon though that the oil would work back up the sleeve and leak out at some point and I'd still need to drain the system to make sure it's done properly so may as well just switch it out.

carruthers · 5 Mar 2015

If you use the correct size of sleeve the result will be as good as any other tube onto solid fixing i.e radiators. This tube is a breather, it doesn't carry any pressure and is not critical. Sleeve it and forget it (well check it occasionally)

993Type · 24 Mar 2015

Well, problem has been taken from me.

My welder called (minor chassis leg repair hence the strip down) and oulined the car was dripping oil from the leg. I broke a heat shield stud and asked him to weld one back in (with great results to be fair).

He's pierced the filler tube higher up with the weld in the chassis leg!

I tried to catch the draining oil and lost 5 litres into a bowl so car now grounded. It's due a change but as the tank is now nearly empty, I may as well do the pipe switch as well. I was going to farm it out with the oil change but suppose it's a good opportunity to learn my own oil swaps as I've nothing to lose now. Local Indy can take the car in 2 weeks if I fail as a non runner so will go for it.

Checked on Rennlist and it looks like you either pull with the old pipe or use a half inch fish wire as you pull the old tube out.

May as well order up fresh oil and filters. Will save a visit to the garage I suppose. Looking forward to starting to get it back together now!

993Type · 24 Mar 2015

OPC were looking at £300 for the oil change and £300 for the estimated pipe fix BTW. So a local Indy is fall back if I fudge it up.

993Type · 25 Mar 2015

Spoke further to some local indies today - worst job they know - anything from 1 to 5 hours depending on 'luck'. Maybe if OPC will go fixed price.......

Going to lube it up with grease then in we go.

Etc.

Fresh oil and filters on order. I'll post pics when done as keeping a record of all this.

BTW - if you do your own oil change - what's e best way to record it in the service history? The Indy that did my major last year will be booked to check my car over but if I do the oil it's pretty much just an inspection for the stamp.

Anyone on here do their own full services and record them in any special way?

Leaking pipe from oil tank

993Type

Monza

993Type

Monza

axlefoley

New member

berni29

Paul Ricard

993Type

Monza

wozy

Sao Paulo

993Type

Monza

993Type

Monza

993Type

Monza

carruthers

Monza

993Type

Monza

carruthers

Monza

993Type

Monza

993Type

Monza

993Type

Monza

Similar threads

Latest posts

New Threads

Porsche Model Range

Porsche 911

Porsche Hypercars

Other Current Porsche Model

Porsche Legacy Models

Forum statistics