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GoPro mounting

The trick for the sound is use two camera's, one on the inside and then paste the two clips together in FCPX

:thumb:

 
Thanks for the replies lads.

My friend who is also going with the same kit as I am has asked to ask what the situ. is with the 64GB taking a funny turn.. He has gone Sandisk Extreme which is recommend on GoPro's website.
 
Ok. So thinking about getting a Go pro for my Spa trip in September.
Couple of questions.
What microphone do I need and will it run from the go pro via a lead to the inside of the car?
Also can I get wifi remote so that I can start/stop recording from inside the car?
Forgive my lack of knowledge on this stuff.
Any help appreciated......
 
You can buy an adapter to convert a normal mic into the Gopro but would need a skeleton cage (not good for external) and if you have the latest version (My Hero 3 + has it) you can run it from an app on your phone to save having the WIFI remote.
 
bryce said:
Thanks for the replies lads.

My friend who is also going with the same kit as I am has asked to ask what the situ. is with the 64GB taking a funny turn.. He has gone Sandisk Extreme which is recommend on GoPro's website.

When the issue first kicked off (around the launch of the Hero 3), the Extreme (gold and red) was only available in up to 32Gb (there is now a 64Gb). The next one down (the Ultra, which was their fastest 64Gb card at the time) is not fast enough. GoPro have also since done a firmware fix to supposedly make this less of a problem.

A 64Gb Extreme ought to be fine (I have a 32Gb Extreme and that doesn't give any issues, but that said I haven't tested the 64 myself).
 
angry said:
Couple of questions.
What microphone do I need and will it run from the go pro via a lead to the inside of the car?
Also can I get wifi remote so that I can start/stop recording from inside the car?

As infrasilver said - if you are planning to run a microphone from the camera you will need either the skeleton enclosure (a rather absurd £50 {the Frame won't help}) or to drill a hole in the normal enclosure to plug it in. You will then also need to spend £20 more for the adaptor cable. Personally I would say that plan B is a better solution - either have a second camera or even just an audio recorder (possibly just the one on your phone) running inside the car and use software to dub it afterwards.

You can remote trigger the recording on anything from the Hero 3 onwards with either the wifi remote or an iPhone. It does work with a camera on the front tow loop (I have the Rennline one with GoPro mount), but you may have to hold up the remote in front of the windscreen for a clearer line of sight - the signal isn't the most powerful and you are sitting in a metal box. The remote does indicate how many cameras it can see. Note that with wifi enabled the battery life will be a bit shorter too though.
 
Thanks for that Disco and Infrasilver :thumb:
 

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