Porsche 911UK Forum

Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.

Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.

Garage door opener retrofit DIY.

Clanky

Well-known member
Joined
24 Aug 2012
Messages
1,040
Something I've planned on doing for a while & finally got around to it.

My door is a Hormann type & had a spare controller so all I needed was the OEM button.

The part number for this is 997.613.227.02.A05

I then soldered wires on to the pins 1, 2, & 4.

4 being the common,
2 is the switch
1 being the illumination for the LED.

The other ends I piggybacked on to the PCB of the original controller, & used a hot glue gun to secure.

4 being "Y" spliced between the negative of the button & LED on the Hormann controller.

2 going to the other side of the button
& 1 going to the +v on the LED.

The wires in the pictures are coloured to differentiate only, & used for metering. I soldered the 8 tails on to the PCB & switch first & simply joined them at a later time once I figured out which went where.

Afterwards, I managed to modify the original case with the trusty soldering iron to allow the wires to pass externally to the OE button.

The whole thing tucks in perfectly above the drivers side roof lining & obviously the switch fits in place of the blank.

Its a bit crude, but when tucked away, it looks completely OEM & saves having a garage controller rattling around in the car.

Hope this little DIY is of help so someone.

:thumb:
 

Attachments

  • homelink_button_171.jpg
    homelink_button_171.jpg
    15.4 KB · Views: 16,769
  • button_rear_920.jpg
    button_rear_920.jpg
    235.2 KB · Views: 16,769
  • controller_155.jpg
    controller_155.jpg
    227.7 KB · Views: 16,769
perfect timing I have been planning the same, how much did the switch cost you?
 
Think it was about £36.
 
I have a Gliderol and just took the remote apart to find this mod would be even simpler as the PCB has holes to solder the wires into, and from your guide would be very simple to do.
Gonna get myself a spare remote and Porsche switch.

Good post.
 
likewise, they are going to wonder why there is a rush on them
 
Great idea...can you show us a pic of where you have located the switch; is there a designated place in a 997 for it to be located?

~ Maxie
 
See attached.

Its a library picture, but you get the idea. I only used the single button, & the panel simply un screws to allow access in behind.

As far as I remember, you remove the light & there are 2 screws in behind, maybe another couple under the blanks...

If I get time tomorrow, I'll go out & double check & take some snaps.
 

Attachments

  • roof_panel_169.jpg
    roof_panel_169.jpg
    31.3 KB · Views: 16,561
Clanky,
Just got my switch and rather than solder onto the connector as you did I will get a connector. Can you tell me when referring to connection 1 to 4 are you looking left to right with the switch faced down and connector in front of you as in your JPG Button Rear?

And roughly what length of cable between the switch and remote is required for a comfortable fit?

Ta
 
Got an old cable from the PC spares draw that used to connect the DVD drive to the activity LED on the outside of the PC. Need slight modding to fit in - snips and sandpaper to take the connectors matings off.

Just need my new remote now to solder the other ends
 

Attachments

  • 20130830_142445_small_168.jpg
    20130830_142445_small_168.jpg
    50.1 KB · Views: 16,476
That's exactly right what you have there.
My wires were only about 4-6" long to allow the controller to sit where it is.
It a good idea to wrap some bubble wrap round it to avoid any rattles too.

Mine also had points in the pcb I could put the wires in, but my battery is 12v so didn't want to risk frying the led in the switch.
I suppose if you wanted to break into the car wiring you could run a permanent live to the controller from the interior light too.
 
I was thinking that battery maintenance could be avoided by hard wiring into the cars power which like my remote is also 12v but this would then tether the device to the car so I will follow your guide clanky.

Many thanks
 
Switch has arrived am? I right in saying the screw behind the switch blanks are the only thing holding the panel on?
 
not fitted mine yet but from what I can tell there's a screw in each - remove both and pull panel down by putting your thumbs in the holes and gently pull down.
 

Attachments

  • img_0142_small_622.jpg
    img_0142_small_622.jpg
    88 KB · Views: 16,287
ok so yes I can confirm that those 2 screws are the only thing holding the panel on

so on to the wiring. I get the feeling I'm missing something bleeding obvious here but ....

connecting the switch, in isolation works. (and the original LED on the PCB lights up)

connecting the LED on the switch up, works when I press the button on the PCB

no combination can I make work such that pressing the button on the switch lights up both LED on the PCB and on the switch
 

New Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
124,354
Messages
1,439,451
Members
48,709
Latest member
Silage
Back
Top