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Stuart
General
General


Joined: 16 Sep 2007
Posts: 5080
Location: Waterworld

2004 Porsche 996 GT3 Mk2

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 12:44 pm    Post subject: Brake bleeding DIY Reply with quote

Thought I'd post this as there doesn't seem to be a DIY for the 996 on here. Boxsey did one for the 964 which helps...

Anyway, followed these intructions from Renntech:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7064&hl=brake%20fluid%20change

Loren wrote:
Parts you will need:
1 liter (minimum) 000 043 203 66 Porsche DOT 4 Brake Fluid or equal (ATE Gold or ATE Super Blue)

Tools you will need:
Jack
19 mm socket for wheel bolts
Motive Power Bleeder (or equal) image
Needle Nose Pliers
11 mm wrench for brakes; 9 mm for clutch slave (sizes vary from car to car but they are usually 9 mm or 11 mm)
Plastic tubing and waste container (at least 1 liter)

1. Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel).
2. Remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir.
3. Remove the plastic screen using a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a little bit challenging but it will pop off (be careful with the brake fluid.. it eats paint!)
4. Use a syringe (or turkey baster... just don't reuse it) and suck out as much of the old fluid as possible.

5. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Put the rest in the power bleeder. Screw the cap that came with the power bleeder onto the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Put the pressure cap with the pump handle on the power bleeder and pump it up to just under 20 psi - do not go over 20 psi!

7. Bleed order - Left rear, Right rear, Left front, Right front. [edited for RHDrive]
8. Place your drain tube over the outside bleed nipple and in the bottle (remember it will need to hold a liter when you are done).
9. Bleed the outer bleeder valve first. Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges. Take care to bleed at each brake caliper and at both bleeder valves.
10. Carefully tighten the bleed screw. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw.
11. Repeat steps 8-10 for the interior bleed screw. Then reinstall the wheel and move on to the next wheel.
Note: It makes sense to check the pressure and amount of fluid in the tank between wheels. Running out of fluid means starting over and getting air out.

Optional Clutch Bleeding
This is best done when you are bleeding the left (driver's side) rear wheel as the clutch bleed valve is mounted high above the axle on the transmission.
1. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed.
2. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw.
3. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at least 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return.

12. Torque the wheels bolts to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm).
13. Do a final check on the brake fluid level and top up if needed.


As a side note I used a household spray gun trigger as a means of drawing out the old fluid in the reservoir, the plastic pipe gets further into the reservoir to get more out than the suggested 'turkey baster'.

I also used a 'Sealey Brake & Clutch Bleeding System VS820' and 'Sealey Brake Bleeder Set with Large Bottle VS0201' for collection (see photo). It comes with a handy magnet to attach to wheel hub/disc which really helped.

The bleed valves can be a b!tch to loosen but slow and steady won through. Also only loosed by a 1/4 of a turn.

Took me about 90min... Thumb
 
  
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oze172
Suzuka


Joined: 04 Jun 2008
Posts: 1245
Location: Hampshire


PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Handy post Stuart...recommend it's added to the DIY section Wink
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simon_house
Monza


Joined: 10 Apr 2012
Posts: 219
Location: Sheffield


PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re: Bleed sequence

Just done mine as per this thread and knowledge from past experience starting furthest away from the master cylinder and finishing on the right-front.

I've since spoke to a friend who is a Porsche tech and he said the sequence should be right-rear, left-rear, right-front then lastly left-front. Reason-location of the ABS module. Can anyone confirm this?

My vehicle is a right-hand drive C2 3.4.
 
  
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Kgboxers
Montreal


Joined: 13 Feb 2011
Posts: 531
Location: Hampshire


PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very handy thread - going to be doing mine this weekend (hopefully!) but also looking to replace the hoses with braided pipes - has anyone seen a guide on how to do this?

Cheers

KG
 
  
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oze172
Suzuka


Joined: 04 Jun 2008
Posts: 1245
Location: Hampshire


PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very easy job, but prepare for possible fluid spillage and full bleed. Can recommend HEL hoses

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