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DIY oil and filter change 996GT3

Stuart

Well-known member
Joined
16 Sep 2007
Messages
5,151
Time - aprox 1 hour with lift/ramps

TSB (courtesy of Loren on Renntech.org hence US ref):
Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers.
Parts you will need:
1 ea 996 107 225 52 (or 996 107 225 53) Oil Filter (with large O-ring)
1 ea 999 707 465 40 Small O-ring
1 ea 900 123 010 20 Copper Sealing Ring - Oil Tank
1 ea 900 123 118 30 Aluminum Sealing Ring - Engine
9 ea 996 106 665 55 Mobil 1 0W-40 or equal (approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters))
Approved Oils as of June 2004
The list is now very long (for worldwide coverage). Here is a short list of popular oils (US/Canada):

Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G
Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL
Mobil 1 0W-40 ncp GL (factory fill)
Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL
Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL
Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40 ncp GL
Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 ncp GL

Note: ncp oils are synthetic (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. G rated oils can be used as non-seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils.
Tools you will need:
Tire ramps or jack
15 mm socket for crankcase drain
27 mm wrench and 19 mm socket for oil tank drain
Oil filter wrench (p/n 000 721 920 40) (tool 9204 about $7 to $22 at your dealer) image
9 plus quart oil catch pan
Torque wrench (optional)

Oil should be changed when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned. Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements.

1. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided.
2. Remove the oil drain screw and collect the engine oil in a disposal container (at least 9 quarts).
3. Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil drain screw and screw it back in with a new aluminium sealing ring. Tightening torque is 52 ft-lb.

post-2-1132167342.gif


4. Remove the oil tank drain screw (19 mm) while holding the nut above it with another (27 mm) wrench (this avoids twisting the tank itself). Collect the engine oil in a disposal container. Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil tank drain screw and screw it back in with a new sealing ring. Tightening torque is 44 ft-lb.

post-2-1132167349.gif


5. Remove the oil filter using the oil filter wrench. Pull off and dispose of the old oil filter element.

post-2-1132167356.gif


6. Clean the oil filter housing thoroughly inside and outside and replace the two O-rings. The new O-rings will go on easier if a light amount of oil is on them. Do not put them on with a screwdriver or other sharp object as a sharp object will damage the O-ring.

post-2-1132167364.gif


7. Remove the remaining quantity of oil from the oil filter housing by suction.
8. Install the new filter element.
9. Lightly apply oil to the housing threads. Install oil filter housing and tighten to 19 ft-lb.
10. Fill with engine oil. The oil change quantity is approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters) after a draining time of approx. 20 minutes.
post-2-1132167372.gif

It is also important to follow this procedure noted by 'NXI20'.

NXI20 said:
It's important to remove the fuse to the fuel pump after you've done an oil & filter change so that you can turn the car over on the starter until you see oil pressure on the gauge. You'll be surprised how long you have to turn the engine over before this happens! Once you see pressure, refit the fuse & warm the engine to do a final level check.

See attachment for fuse layout diagrams:

:thumb:
 

Attachments

  • tec_996_fuses_225.pdf
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As said its fuse C4, I also pull this fuse if cars being standing for more than a week or so to avoid that horrible clatter and start up smoke. Actually I pull this fuse a lot, my engine loves me for it.
 
As said its fuse C4, I also pull this fuse if cars being standing for more than a week or so to avoid that horrible clatter and start up smoke. Actually I pull this fuse a lot, my engine loves me for it.

Found this after a search for something else. My car can site for weeks, especially thought the winter down time, then when it erupts into life I get the usual flat six cloud of smoke-setting off the smoke alarm and poisoning the Labrador who sleeps next to it!

Should I be doing this every time I start after a few weeks?
 

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