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Lloyd Six
Österreich


Joined: 04 Nov 2008
Posts: 879
Location: Worcestershire


PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:24 pm    Post subject: How to replace a coffin arm *another for the FAQ* Reply with quote

The 996 & 986 suffer greatly with sqeaks and creaks, tram-lining and wandering.

The common cause is the front lower arm, known to the trade as the 'Coffin arm' due to it's shape.

The time required to remove and refit is under 1.5hours

Tools required

Min 1T trolley jack (hopefully better than my Halfords effort)
Axle stand (ensure you do use one as this job will incur a couple of hard clouts, too risky to rely on just a jack)
2lb Lump hammer
Flat ended screwdriver


Also require
New Coffin arm (note the shape)
WD40
Grease
16, 17, 18, 19 & 21mm spanners
10, 18, 19mm sockets (in 1/2" drive with ratchet)
Usual wheel removal tools


Jack up car and support with axle stand, remove the wheel


Spray all the obvious areas with WD40 to aid the undoing of bolts

Remove the plastic guard using the flat ended screw driver from the arm to gain more access

A useful photo so you can see how the clip works


Use the 18mm socket and 21mm spanner to remove the nut & bolt from the bush in the middle of the coffin arm, once removed pull the support arm & swing towards front of wheel arch



Use the 17 or 19mm spanner (depends on nut size) and udno the nut on the out ball-joint which joins the coffin arm to the hub. Undo until the nut is flush with the top of the thread.

To release the ball joint it will require a few hard clouts against the arm as per photo below... don't be shy here, they take a fair wack but don't hit your wing or the brake disc.
If you think it has freed then LIGHTLY tap the nut that you left flust with the top of the thread, it should now be free. If you can not release the ball joint, put it back together and pass it to a pro, I feel siezed ball joints are beyond basic DiY


Use the 10mm socket to remove the Black plastic nut holding up the splash guard


Then use a big spanner to prop the guard out of the way


Now remove the bolt on the inner coffin arm bush (16 & 18mm spanners)

That's it.. it is now removed. The refit is a simple reverse of the above, inner bush then ball joint then middle bush. Grease up all the nuts & bolts, I use anti-sieze compound.
_________________
Currently - Audi A4 Cab & BMW Touring.
Ex = 2 Boxsters and a very missed Black 996 C2 facelift Sad
Coming soon... either a 997 or 996TT
 
  
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Porsche
Donnington
Donnington


Joined: 31 Dec 2002
Posts: 12734
Location: Nürburgring Nordschleife

2003 Porsche 996 GT3 Mk2

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lloyd Six that's very impressive Thumb
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Porsche on Youtube!

964 Project Car
996 MK2 GT3 CS Manthey
993 Targa
 
  
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996UFO
Spa-Francorchamps


Joined: 28 Jul 2008
Posts: 296


2001 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lloyd,

Just thought I'd add my appreciation for your informative and well written posts. They are always useful and interesting.

Cheers
 
  
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F1_Dragon
Kyalami


Joined: 25 Jul 2005
Posts: 1959
Location: London

2002 Porsche 996 Carrera 4S

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great post. Thumb
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Haran
996C4S
 
  
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minny
Nürburgring


Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 459



PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you once again. You must have bought a twin of my car as you have all the same problems as I do. This is the job I have to do next along with the forked control arms. I have both creaks and clonks over bumps. Since I have replaced the ARB links and bushes it must be one or the other. Thing is my coffin arms were only replaced 30 months and 25k miles ago but I don't think they were original parts and are starting to wear again.
 
  
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speed8
Monza


Joined: 23 May 2009
Posts: 211
Location: Yorkshire


PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just did my nearside front ths afternoon. Took about 2 hours to get it off and 20 mins to get the new one on. Needed to get the ball joint splitters on it as it was a bit tight. I used the scissor type splitters as I wasn't sure I would have enough space to get a hammer on the other type.

I'll do the offside on Monday but my annoying clunk seems to have gone now so thats a good thing and worth the effort.

Cheers

Update: Done the other side this morning, took less than an hour (still needed to splitters though to get the ball joint apart) Thumb
 
  
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P996
Trainee


Joined: 28 Feb 2010
Posts: 72



PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think this maybe something I will need to do soon.

Do you need to get the tracking done after the arms have been changed? I have been informed that you do by some and some have said that you don't.
 
  
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Lloyd Six
Österreich


Joined: 04 Nov 2008
Posts: 879
Location: Worcestershire


PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

P996 wrote:
I think this maybe something I will need to do soon.

Do you need to get the tracking done after the arms have been changed? I have been informed that you do by some and some have said that you don't.


No, this job does not have any impact on caster, camber or tracking.
_________________
Currently - Audi A4 Cab & BMW Touring.
Ex = 2 Boxsters and a very missed Black 996 C2 facelift Sad
Coming soon... either a 997 or 996TT
 
  
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leacarrera4
Montreal


Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 526
Location: essex


PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great post,certainly can save some money and not as hard to replace
as you may think thumbsup
 
  
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chriggy
Trainee


Joined: 23 Feb 2010
Posts: 70



PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did this today, wish I'd seen this first as I'd read a couple of guides on other forums but this is better.

A couple of things I'd point out - apparently the 18mm is a real odd ball size, so check you have one. Not only did I not have anything 18mm but for most bolts there I couldn't fit a socket. Ended up with emergency run to halfords and got an adjustable ratchet one (£16! Surprised ).

Also, apparently it's quite common for friction to weld the balljoint bolt in - in my case a hammer wouldn't do it, luckily the father in law had a ball joint separator. Nearly shat myself when it popped out - more like exploded out! Laughing
Oh, and also needed a torx (I used a small one held with shifters -can't remember size) to tighten nut onto ball joint.
 
  
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