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CLR Project Leichtbau: adding lightness to the tune of 250kg

Sincere apologies for causing you to lose a weekend Rob :grin:

Glad to hear you have found some of the information here useful for your own project. I'm getting pretty close to a stage in the Alfa development now where I can get back into other projects. The 996 will be going to Manthey Racing soon for final development testing on circuit with pro test driver including geo set-up and hardware review. The car will probably be with them for some time and I'm looking forward to see what the results will be once they've waved their magic wand over it. The reason for this is I have hand built the car so I just want to make absolutely certain that all my changes are approved and thoroughly checked by the best in the business. Especially the effects of things like the hub positioning, no front ARB and Ohlins settings all working in perfect harmony. I just feel Manthey have so much experience in this field it takes out all the guess work and endless testing and adjustment to try and find the correct cohesive balance.

Keep me informed on how you get on with your car ;)
 
Hi Phil, I've done a few areas on my latest Alfa project regarding some thick aluminum rotating parts but to be honest in that video you are dealing with secondary structural areas probably only 0.9-1.1mm thick, so in total my guess is 3-5kg saved. It is a lot of work for very little gain but the main benefit of lightening holes such as this, would be for improved structural rigidity.

I would like to try and make it to Dinslaken but my main focus just now is getting the Alfa finished. Hopefully within a month I'll have a clearer picture as it would be good to do a Moselle/NBR tour with some of you guys that may be interested :wink:
 
ELA said:
Hi Phil, I've done a few areas on my latest Alfa project regarding some thick aluminum rotating parts but to be honest in that video you are dealing with secondary structural areas probably only 0.9-1.1mm thick, so in total my guess is 3-5kg saved. It is a lot of work for very little gain but the main benefit of lightening holes such as this, would be for improved structural rigidity.

I would like to try and make it to Dinslaken but my main focus just now is getting the Alfa finished. Hopefully within a month I'll have a clearer picture as it would be good to do a Moselle/NBR tour with some of you guys that may be interested :wink:

Sounds good mate , hope to catch up with you in Dinslaken :thumb:
 
Phil 997 said:
Richard ,I was watching this video and it made me think of you . have you done or considered doing this to lose more weight or are there more cons than pros in doing it.

https://www.facebook.com/kkclassicporsche/videos/177373823362897/

also are you doing Dinslaken this year mate :thumb: :thumb:

That looks very pretty but you'd have to be careful you weren't compromising the structure of the part quite badly by doing this. On non-structural parts it's great but it could end up seriously reducing the torsional rigidity or crash resistance - as I'm sure it has done so in this case.
 
Shalmaneser said:
Phil 997 said:
Richard ,I was watching this video and it made me think of you . have you done or considered doing this to lose more weight or are there more cons than pros in doing it.

https://www.facebook.com/kkclassicporsche/videos/177373823362897/

also are you doing Dinslaken this year mate :thumb: :thumb:

That looks very pretty but you'd have to be careful you weren't compromising the structure of the part quite badly by doing this. On non-structural parts it's great but it could end up seriously reducing the torsional rigidity or crash resistance - as I'm sure it has done so in this case.

yes Richard said the same , I was also what I was thinking which was why I asked and agree with what Richard said about it not actually losing much wieght as the metal is light anyway. :thumb: :thumb:
 
Everybody likes 'Speed holes". :grin:

https://youtu.be/G3ja6Hn8ps4


My mates early race cars were always full of holes, but nothing structural, just inner door skins etc. No worries if there's a full cage but you wouldn't want to do it without a cage. Same as carbon fibre doors etc. You'd want door bars as a second defence.
 
Hi Richard,

Well, I got rid of my Alfa, to have less headache, to be able to focus on my Porsches. You're making it the other way round. :D

I like your approach to hand over the car to Manthey Racing. Those guys are benchmark!
My issue was that everyone is focused on performance only. Not about the feel of driving and interaction with the car on reasonable speeds. Therefore you have to be careful with Manthey here.
They are making a weapon out of your car and will reduce the playfulness and driver interaction. You can't just hand over the car to them and expect a result as per your expectation. You have to be involved in this project yourself.
I struggled to find a company that understood my needs. They are obsessed with more grip, more performance, more everything.

That's why it took me a lot of research, fine tuning and a step by step approach to come closer to my target. At the end I spend a day to figure out a geo setup with a geo expert that I like and worked with different spring rates from à–hlins(springs are reasonably priced at à–hlins), against different opinions of experts.
You know, Porsche designed the car with intention to generate maximum grip at the rear, I really struggled to reduce some camber at the back to make the limits of the car more approachable.
I wanted to have good handing, without any weight savings. So if I have weight savings applied, it will get even better.
But this is all in all a long and maybe boring story...

This spring is the aim to get rid of 103kg, with still remaining focus on overall driveability and fun.

- Relocation of the Li-Ion Battery further forward and down, where the tool box was located
- Driver and Passenger seat
- Removal of the Audio stuff
- Getting rid of the carpet foaming
- 18" wheels with narrower tires
- Removal of Front-Rear Bumper Support,
etc.

Can't wait to feel, how the car is going to improve further.

I just received adjustable semi-solid engine mounts today, can't wait to try them out. Just a question regarding the gearbox mount. Which one do you recommend, a stock version or a PU version? Do you have the tool to press it out? Should be an easy job with the right tool. No one is able to help me here, seems like the German guys in the German forum don't care a bout driver involvement
Will be fun in combination with an adjustable sway bar. :D

I have difficulties to get my FIA seats and steering wheel extension TUV approved. Do you have a TUV on hand who is willing to help here?

Next step will be, selling my boring 997 Turbo to get some liquidity and to be able to focus on this project.

Then moving on with interesting stuff like a carbon roof and ducktail end of the year, need your advice when moving on with this stuff.

Should be my absolute dream car by 2021
:puh:
 
LightweightRob said:
Hi Richard,

Well, I got rid of my Alfa, to have less headache, to be able to focus on my Porsches. You're making it the other way round. :D
Almost but not quite as my Porkers aren't going anywhere ;)

I like your approach to hand over the car to Manthey Racing. Those guys are benchmark!
My issue was that everyone is focused on performance only. Not about the feel of driving and interaction with the car on reasonable speeds. Therefore you have to be careful with Manthey here.
They are making a weapon out of your car and will reduce the playfulness and driver interaction. You can't just hand over the car to them and expect a result as per your expectation. You have to be involved in this project yourself.
I struggled to find a company that understood my needs. They are obsessed with more grip, more performance, more everything.

I fully get that, I will be involved with all test driving and geometry changes; my aim from the start was to create the most exciting drivers 911: more original ST or R rather than latest GT3RS, so have no fear, my car will not be turned into some track mule ;)

That's why it took me a lot of research, fine tuning and a step by step approach to come closer to my target. At the end I spend a day to figure out a geo setup with a geo expert that I like and worked with different spring rates from à–hlins(springs are reasonably priced at à–hlins), against different opinions of experts.

This is the reason I am going to Manthey, they have professional race drivers so should be able to detect exactly what I need to do in order to get exactly what I want from the chassis, well that's the plan anyway.

You know, Porsche designed the car with intention to generate maximum grip at the rear, I really struggled to reduce some camber at the back to make the limits of the car more approachable.
I wanted to have good handing, without any weight savings. So if I have weight savings applied, it will get even better.
But this is all in all a long and maybe boring story...

This spring is the aim to get rid of 103kg, with still remaining focus on overall driveability and fun.

- Relocation of the Li-Ion Battery further forward and down, where the tool box was located
- Driver and Passenger seat
- Removal of the Audio stuff
- Getting rid of the carpet foaming
- 18" wheels with narrower tires
- Removal of Front-Rear Bumper Support,
etc.

Can't wait to feel, how the car is going to improve further.

I just received adjustable semi-solid engine mounts today, can't wait to try them out. Just a question regarding the gearbox mount. Which one do you recommend, a stock version or a PU version? Do you have the tool to press it out? Should be an easy job with the right tool. No one is able to help me here, seems like the German guys in the German forum don't care a bout driver involvement

The easiest solution would be to fit the power flex inserts into the existing mount, but honestly pressing out the original should not be difficult with a standard 30T press.

Will be fun in combination with an adjustable sway bar. :D

I have difficulties to get my FIA seats and steering wheel extension TUV approved. Do you have a TUV on hand who is willing to help here?

Wie immer in Deutschland, schwierig und teuer! For something like the parts you mention, there are a few options, let me know nearer the time ;)

Next step will be, selling my boring 997 Turbo to get some liquidity and to be able to focus on this project.

Then moving on with interesting stuff like a carbon roof and ducktail end of the year, need your advice when moving on with this stuff.

Sounds like you mean business with your project best of luck

Should be my absolute dream car by 2021
:puh:
 
Sorry Rob, I wish I could offer something significant on the 996 front but the brutal truth is I've now stored this car for the best part of a year now and since doing all the work have probably only amassed something in the region of 200miles. It is a tragic shame but I've not had the time to progress this project and at present only have 3 slots in the garage.
The plan was to hand the car over to Manthey Racing for them to work their magic on final development this year but I just haven't got round to it yet.
 
Just bumping this thread back up so I can easily find it and reread it 👍🏻
 
After all this time I have finally managed to get the car on the scales. The car has been stored for a year now and I've only driven 900miles in the last 3 years so it was good to finally get the car back. Corner weight figures are as follows:

FL- 196.3kg FR- 191kg Front total 387.6kg
RL- 370.8kg RR-376.9kg Rear total 747.7kg

Total: 1135kg
 
A few years ago now, but back here:

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=106137&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=660

37357087661_739c92e9fd_h.jpg


You manage to get the cams out of the engine while the engine is still installed in the car. I'd love to change my Variocam sliders and this would seem to be the way to do it with the engine still in the car. How much of a nightmare was the job? It looks like once you get the exhaust mounting bracket removed (which looks to be tricky to be fair) the rest of the job doesn't look to bad. Would you agree with that assessment? Any tips or tricks?

You've also only shown the left bank, would the other side be more tricky?

Any wise words much appreciated, and thanks for a great thread!

Here's hoping you manage to put a few more miles on the CLR over the next few years!
 
Shalmaneser said:
A few years ago now, but back here:

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=106137&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=660

37357087661_739c92e9fd_h.jpg


You manage to get the cams out of the engine while the engine is still installed in the car. I'd love to change my Variocam sliders and this would seem to be the way to do it with the engine still in the car. How much of a nightmare was the job? It looks like once you get the exhaust mounting bracket removed (which looks to be tricky to be fair) the rest of the job doesn't look to bad. Would you agree with that assessment? Any tips or tricks?

You've also only shown the left bank, would the other side be more tricky?

Any wise words much appreciated, and thanks for a great thread!

Here's hoping you manage to put a few more miles on the CLR over the next few years!

The job was reasonable but just be careful inserting the green caps/plugs once you remove the cam lock tooling. As if you push them in too far you have to start again. Also go easy on the engine sealant. You will need to buy the engine tooling but it wasn't that expensive, less than £100 from memory. Raising the car by at least 50cm will also make it far more comfortable. Left or right should make no difference in terms of complexity.

Regarding the CLR, I'm glad to report I have been working on the car over the last few days ;) Hopefully will get a drive out in it tomorrow.
 

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