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My 911 C2 Coupe!

Maldren - I'll take some pics and measurements tomorrow for you. Note however that these modules don't have the ability to swap between rhd and lhd as far as I can see.

Berni - thanks for your kind words. It's funny that while you're right, I am growing up through the cars - I'd say the 996 definitely feels closer to the 205 than the e46 m3, especially with the rs engine mounts, and it's all the better for it!
 
Like the updates and good for you for taking on the headlight up-grade. I must get my running thread started.

So the car has a "helmholtz resonator" ? Must check what is in the air box next time I am in the garage.

I looked in Halfords at the unit you fitted and it was a big surprise how much cheaper head units are than I remember and what a choice and stack of features, especially on-line.

The existing unit put up a bit of struggle to come out and whilst searching YouTube, I spotted a video of someone fitting the Continental unit and ended up getting one of those - very retro looking and a good sound I hope!

All being well, it will come before the weekend..
 
TV8 - The standard head unit was a real fight to get out. I had to put a screwdriver through the rings of the removal tools otherwise I think I would have severed a finger pulling before the bloody thing came out!

TBH with the head unit my favourite method has just been to go onto Ebay and buy a second hand unit with the appropriate colour lighting and the features I need. Especially now that most are mechless (ie. no cd player) if you go for a decent brand (Sony/Pioneer/Kenwood etc) they're extremely reliable. All I want to do is play music from my phone over the speakers, I'm no audiophile, and for £30 or whatever I paid for this unit it's been excellent.

Something that has recently been bothering me - does anyone have a method for tightening up the release cables for the front and rear boot lids? Mine nearly get to the end of their travel before they pop, I want to improve this situation if possible!
 
Successful Sunday afternoon fitting new coffin arms and track rod ends.
Everything came apart without much of a fight at all for which I am extremely grateful.

bSC6mqc.jpg


C9oHxvX.jpg


Inner bolt came out very easily, not corroded into the bush thankfully!

HDroLQK.jpg


Meyle HD vs OE part. I know there was an issue with Meyle coffin arms being too long, but these looked exactly right. Clearly the casting isn't quite as good quality - the fillets are much tighter on the OE part - but the Meyle ones were £90 each including fixings which I reckon is a pretty great deal. Meyle parts were 150 grams heavier too - 1.5kg vs 1.35kg.

The ball joints were squeaking quite badly but there was no play I could feel, although they were a lot looser than the Meyle parts and the bushes were a lot softer. Could have probably got away with injecting some grease into the ball joints.

Drop links and tuning forks also seem to be in great condition.

bedOrI8.jpg


Toe links had torn boots on both sides which is an MOT fail, replaced by TRW parts which I understand is the OE supplier? Need to get tracking done again now though...

cUVbfvC.jpg


Whole job only took about 3 hours so had some time for a wash and some other random jobs like adjusting the slightly wonky exhaust tips, forgot to take an after pic so here's a before of the car looking filthy!

Post work test drive confirmed I'd managed to remove the squeak from the front - it's now only squeaking from the rear! Very pleased with the work as I was anticipating this being a nightmare. The car really is very clean underneath - I count myself very lucky.
 
Looks like you did better than me... tried to do a tuning fork/diagonal arm yesterday which looked very straightforward. But I just could not for the life of me get the bolt through the coffin arm to turn. The angles involved with the car on an axle stand would not allow me to put enough pressure on the ratchet handle and I was keen not to damage the coffin arm bushes etc, back to the drawing board :nooo:
 
I did have to get out my extra massive breaker bar for the tuning fork to coffin arm bolt - they are absolutely huge and done up to 160NM which is massive.

I'm not sure I could have done it with just a ratchet. When it comes to undoing bolt on cars I tend to go straight to the absolute biggest lever I can get on the bolt and work from there. You could probably crack these off with the wheels on the ground which might be easier and safer.
 
Good plan... I will buy a breaker bar... the bolt looked in good condition and wasnt corroded so I'm obviously too puny!
 
I reckon if you'd managed to crank off a nut torqued up to 160 Nm with a 300mm long ratchet you'd be doing well even if you were the size of The Rock.

Breaker bar is an invaluable purchase not least for undoing wheel nuts that have been spun on by some monkey with an air gun. Just be careful if you're using to to do things up, use a torque wrench for that!
 
I always use a breaker instead of a rachet just to start things moving. Broken a few in the past - they get replaced but it's a pain. Plus i feel dirty for the little ratchet mechanism (especially when I've got the jack handle on the end of it to a metre out...)

I need to do my rear tuning fork arms this spring. But the rest of the suspension was all done last year so hopefully no issues taking things apart.
 
Shalmaneser said:
I reckon if you'd managed to crank off a nut torqued up to 160 Nm with a 300mm long ratchet you'd be doing well even if you were the size of The Rock.

Breaker bar is an invaluable purchase not least for undoing wheel nuts that have been spun on by some monkey with an air gun. Just be careful if you're using to to do things up, use a torque wrench for that!

Fair point, hadn't considered that!

I've ordered one today, hopefully more successful next time...
 
Changed over the bearings in the idler pulleys during lunch yesterday.

Popped some "SKF Explorer 3203 A-2RS1TN9/MT33" bearings in there. Old ones were pretty shot.

Whole job was a piece of piss with a couple of correctly sized sockets and a bench vice. Just make sure you press on the outside of the bearing while installing the new bearings - don't want to knacker them before you've had a chance to use them!

Failed to undo the bolt for the tensioner bracket pulley so that ones is still to do. Just needs a bit more time and not ideal to do during a lunch break!

Very easy job, I'd recommend anyone do this if they're looking to save a few quid.

I've also bought some new spark plugs, tubes and coils which I hope I'll do after work today. I'm becoming a little bemused about the exhaust tone of this car. It pulls really well and the engine is very quiet at idle but it doesn't have that flat six howl than my fiancee's 987 boxster does. It's not as smooth, either. I'll try and make a video for people to pass judgement on, would be good to know if they all do that sir or if something is amiss. It sounds like the exhaust might be blowing but there's no sign of that I can see.

I'm hoping the coils and plugs make a bit of a difference to the smoothness and tone!
 
Spark plug, coils and spark plug tubes time.

Whole job took about 3 hours including faffing around with axle stands I didn't actually need. You don't need to remove the rear wheels for this job, but jacking the engine up a bit does make things a bit more comfortable.

I started by removing the rear bumper and exhaust. Removing the bumper is a piece of piss and as I'd replaced the exhaust recently removing that was no trouble either. I'd highly recommend doing this if you're attempting this job, you really need the space.

Was left with this:

y7nBLJC.jpg


Note evidence of leaking spark plug tubes! Almost all the tubes had a leak of some description.

DrIYSzR.jpg


coil pack, plug and tube removed. I used this tool, which I made myself out of some threaded rod, nuts and washers:

sC8EPtU.jpg


It worked incredibly well. I'd highly recommend using a tool like this instead of the boat plug the american forums seem to recommend. One of my tubes was stuck tight and I'm not sure the boat plug would have done the trick.

1Wmgohm.jpg


All cleaned up, new tube and plug. Well, partially cleaned up. Hopefully the rest will get washed away next time I'm on the motorway in the rain.

TURgc1W.jpg


And with new coil packs, plugs and tubes installed all round. Couple of things to note: I had trouble confirming the connectors were engaged with the coil packs so I had to wrestle a bit to get the rubber boots pulled back on the cables to visually confirm that the clips were engaged on the bump on the pack. Rubber boot then pulled back down.

This picture also previews an issue I had installing the heat shields - the coil packs are larger than before and so the heat shield hits the fixing bolts before it bottoms out on the post on the cam cover. I'll make some ~10mm spacers out of aluminium to rectify this and get some longer bolts.

Finally, check out the state of my plugs:

3isKOYQ.jpg


:eek:

Interestingly the coil packs were dated 11/2016 so they had been changed relatively recently, how long do we reckon these plugs were in there? Car had a fully stamped dealer and specialist service book!
 
Those plugs don't look out of the ordinary to be honest.
 
I thought electrode looked very eroded compared to the new parts:

996%203.6L%20spark%20plug_1.jpg


Colour looks good though, always a relief.
 
Can't quite work out how that tool you've thrown together works...?

I used the boat plug puller method last time I had to replace a tube and it only just did the job.

Just as I was about to give up it finally worked but I had little confidence in it. Would be good to know there's a better option.
 

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